Jammyb

yep that was me . So keen to test ride new setup whilst changing components i forgot to torque the axle nuts adequately! Won't be making that mistake again. Back up and running with another motor thanks to the help of PC2017 though

sounds good mate, great once you have a smooth working setup . Black controller looks nice to, wouldn't look out of place mounted direct to the frame somewhere or do you have a controller box/bag

This self amalgamating table is great for that purpose, its nice and rubbery and the splines in the PAS seem to grip it better than the normal black elec tape. ( actually my fav type of tape for many diy things as its not sticky but sticks to itself when stretched. - perfect for wrapping round connections for 100% waterproofing ): https://www.toolstation.com/self-amalgamating-repair-tape/p23876

Or you can go at it a bit heath robinson, with a hacksaw and file cut off a bit of the inside edge of the pedal. mines been like this for over a year now and did the job:

I'm super lucky and hugely grateful if it is! Stupid error by me, had the bike upside down whilst testing and think i forgot to go back and torque one of the axle nuts down before going for a test run. Luckily I felt something odd when pulling off from a standstill rather than it happening at speed. Don't think i had limited the amps on the controller at that point so 1 side of axle held in bike, otherside popped out and i guess 900w pushing though it for a min caused it to snap the axle

this is the state of my previous one:

Ow that would be fantastic! ... i think - being a bit dumb here but which part is the rotor, is that the middle bit that the axel is pressed though? If that means I could get my old wheel with the snapped axle up and running again that would be amazing

Thanks for that sounds pretty good! yes guess you going to have to keep a close eye on the heat once our sun ever comes back! Just a thought - could you unscrew the faceplate of the 350w motor pull it out and slot it in the other 250w wheel that's not cracked ? or are they actually different sized hubs

Ah, well this is what I thought originally but both versions of the 9mosfet KT36/48SVPRM and KT36/48ZWSRM controllers seem to have the hall control wires as well as phase so there must be more to it than that ?

Cheers CP2017, I wondered in future if the 250w winding motor run at 48v would be a better experience, with a bit stronger pull at lower speed and if it would still allow good assist between 20-23mph. Be interesting to know how you get on with your new controller and when you switch over to the 48v batt. Crossing fingers it resolves your LVC issues!

I'm pretty sure there not crossed, wouldn't that make it just run terribly. I mean its does work perfectly ...just not quiet as smooth and quiet as the external square wave controller. Thanks Nealh - The videos are just using throttle but the PAS seems to also work fine. Do you think from the sound in the videos it's that bad a match to end up toasting the controller ? Thanks, i did try initially with p1 set to 88 comparing to the gps on my phone and it was pretty much the same reading, but i will try that again more thoroughly using the method you describe. Got to thinking now I understand the KT model ref 36/48 SVPRM (sine wave) and 36/48 ZWSRM (square wave) There's no model description on the internal controller, is there any way to identify from the pcm the difference between the sine wave / square wave models - different component ? or is it all software related? I would really love to know if this motor would be much much quieter still with a 100% confirmed sine wave controller such as this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33004887423.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.13.3fce107fIZTt8X There's not many videos of these hubs on youtube, does anyone else run one with a sine wave controller that's noticeably quieter than mine in any of these video clips?

I think this would be the one to go for for the best external with waterproof connections: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33004887423.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.13.3fce107fIZTt8X Did you get the 48v version of the integrated controller ? I've since been informed by topbikekit guys that these internal ones are not auto voltage sensing between 36v/48v. So 48v controller version is only for 48v batteries and 36v controller for 36v batts.

Tried setting P1 to 176 yesterday but unfortunately didn't seem to make any difference. Not 100% sure if motor has 16 or 20 magnets so also tried 4.4x16 and multiples there of (P1 = 70, 140, 210) Strange though I can't detect any change in all these settings, only as previously found P1 = 60 or less prevents the motor spinning at full speed and seems to reduce unloaded speed to around 15mph or less. Think i'll stick for now using the integrated controller though, it's not so bad once riding compared to hearing it on the bike stand. Just annoying knowing it can run smoother and quieter with the external controller. I know I could go back to that one and mount it on the bike frame somewhere - it's just I like the minimal look on the bike. noticed this morning the part that vibrates / resonates the most is the front chain swing arm - might replace that at some point with a new one.

Hi PC2017 That does sound very similar to how my kit startng acting up. Seemed to start just doing random things like that brake cut out not showing whilst active and speedo not always registering. Eventually I don't think any setting changes on the lcd settings made any difference to the controller - don't think communication was working between lcd and controller. I still don't understand fully why as I tested my 4in1 cable end to end but it was definitely that cable that was the cause of it all as changing just that when my new kit arrived resolved all the issues. I've not had any issue with battery voltage detection though. Think the default lvc on the KT controllers for a 48v battery is dead on 40v. It says on the Aliexpress listing for my 48v 13s5p battery that the Discharge cutoff voltage: 36.4V. Maybe your setup is registering correctly and would have cut off at 40v? I haven't run my new kit that low yet - so far have always charged back to full once its reached about 45v resting. Im now only using the new cable and 350w wheel (since previous axle snapped) from the new yosepower kit and part from the slightly noiser and rougher running (see other thread) I now have with the integrated controller its running great. The second 350w kit from yosepower uses a difference motor, i noticed soon as i changed it the previous one ran to 36mph unloaded and the new one runs up to 30mph unloaded. Think the top speed actually riding would still be max of 25mph on either though without pedaling. What's the unloaded speed of your 250w with the 48v battery ? do you prefer it to the 350w wheel, I guess it has a difference winding so a bit stronger acceleration ?

Thanks, I haven’t tried P1 that high, I have tried from about 50-115 but I couldn’t tell any difference only that it would not spin at full speed below 50-60 I also still have the 6 mosfit 36v hailong controller and battery from my original yose power kit. That combo does seem to run the motor fine but obviously want to use my new 48v I’ve recently upgraded to. thanks for your suggestion of multiples of 88, will let you know how I get on