Jammyb

yep that was me . So keen to test ride new setup whilst changing components i forgot to torque the axle nuts adequately! Won't be making that mistake again. Back up and running with another motor thanks to the help of PC2017 though

sounds good mate, great once you have a smooth working setup . Black controller looks nice to, wouldn't look out of place mounted direct to the frame somewhere or do you have a controller box/bag

This self amalgamating table is great for that purpose, its nice and rubbery and the splines in the PAS seem to grip it better than the normal black elec tape. ( actually my fav type of tape for many diy things as its not sticky but sticks to itself when stretched. - perfect for wrapping round connections for 100% waterproofing ): https://www.toolstation.com/self-amalgamating-repair-tape/p23876

Or you can go at it a bit heath robinson, with a hacksaw and file cut off a bit of the inside edge of the pedal. mines been like this for over a year now and did the job:

I'm super lucky and hugely grateful if it is! Stupid error by me, had the bike upside down whilst testing and think i forgot to go back and torque one of the axle nuts down before going for a test run. Luckily I felt something odd when pulling off from a standstill rather than it happening at speed. Don't think i had limited the amps on the controller at that point so 1 side of axle held in bike, otherside popped out and i guess 900w pushing though it for a min caused it to snap the axle

this is the state of my previous one:

Ow that would be fantastic! ... i think - being a bit dumb here but which part is the rotor, is that the middle bit that the axel is pressed though? If that means I could get my old wheel with the snapped axle up and running again that would be amazing

Thanks for that sounds pretty good! yes guess you going to have to keep a close eye on the heat once our sun ever comes back! Just a thought - could you unscrew the faceplate of the 350w motor pull it out and slot it in the other 250w wheel that's not cracked ? or are they actually different sized hubs

Ah, well this is what I thought originally but both versions of the 9mosfet KT36/48SVPRM and KT36/48ZWSRM controllers seem to have the hall control wires as well as phase so there must be more to it than that ?

Cheers CP2017, I wondered in future if the 250w winding motor run at 48v would be a better experience, with a bit stronger pull at lower speed and if it would still allow good assist between 20-23mph. Be interesting to know how you get on with your new controller and when you switch over to the 48v batt. Crossing fingers it resolves your LVC issues!

I'm pretty sure there not crossed, wouldn't that make it just run terribly. I mean its does work perfectly ...just not quiet as smooth and quiet as the external square wave controller. Thanks Nealh - The videos are just using throttle but the PAS seems to also work fine. Do you think from the sound in the videos it's that bad a match to end up toasting the controller ? Thanks, i did try initially with p1 set to 88 comparing to the gps on my phone and it was pretty much the same reading, but i will try that again more thoroughly using the method you describe. Got to thinking now I understand the KT model ref 36/48 SVPRM (sine wave) and 36/48 ZWSRM (square wave) There's no model description on the internal controller, is there any way to identify from the pcm the difference between the sine wave / square wave models - different component ? or is it all software related? I would really love to know if this motor would be much much quieter still with a 100% confirmed sine wave controller such as this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33004887423.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.13.3fce107fIZTt8X There's not many videos of these hubs on youtube, does anyone else run one with a sine wave controller that's noticeably quieter than mine in any of these video clips?

I think this would be the one to go for for the best external with waterproof connections: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33004887423.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.13.3fce107fIZTt8X Did you get the 48v version of the integrated controller ? I've since been informed by topbikekit guys that these internal ones are not auto voltage sensing between 36v/48v. So 48v controller version is only for 48v batteries and 36v controller for 36v batts.

Tried setting P1 to 176 yesterday but unfortunately didn't seem to make any difference. Not 100% sure if motor has 16 or 20 magnets so also tried 4.4x16 and multiples there of (P1 = 70, 140, 210) Strange though I can't detect any change in all these settings, only as previously found P1 = 60 or less prevents the motor spinning at full speed and seems to reduce unloaded speed to around 15mph or less. Think i'll stick for now using the integrated controller though, it's not so bad once riding compared to hearing it on the bike stand. Just annoying knowing it can run smoother and quieter with the external controller. I know I could go back to that one and mount it on the bike frame somewhere - it's just I like the minimal look on the bike. noticed this morning the part that vibrates / resonates the most is the front chain swing arm - might replace that at some point with a new one.

Hi PC2017 That does sound very similar to how my kit startng acting up. Seemed to start just doing random things like that brake cut out not showing whilst active and speedo not always registering. Eventually I don't think any setting changes on the lcd settings made any difference to the controller - don't think communication was working between lcd and controller. I still don't understand fully why as I tested my 4in1 cable end to end but it was definitely that cable that was the cause of it all as changing just that when my new kit arrived resolved all the issues. I've not had any issue with battery voltage detection though. Think the default lvc on the KT controllers for a 48v battery is dead on 40v. It says on the Aliexpress listing for my 48v 13s5p battery that the Discharge cutoff voltage: 36.4V. Maybe your setup is registering correctly and would have cut off at 40v? I haven't run my new kit that low yet - so far have always charged back to full once its reached about 45v resting. Im now only using the new cable and 350w wheel (since previous axle snapped) from the new yosepower kit and part from the slightly noiser and rougher running (see other thread) I now have with the integrated controller its running great. The second 350w kit from yosepower uses a difference motor, i noticed soon as i changed it the previous one ran to 36mph unloaded and the new one runs up to 30mph unloaded. Think the top speed actually riding would still be max of 25mph on either though without pedaling. What's the unloaded speed of your 250w with the 48v battery ? do you prefer it to the 350w wheel, I guess it has a difference winding so a bit stronger acceleration ?

Thanks, I haven’t tried P1 that high, I have tried from about 50-115 but I couldn’t tell any difference only that it would not spin at full speed below 50-60 I also still have the 6 mosfit 36v hailong controller and battery from my original yose power kit. That combo does seem to run the motor fine but obviously want to use my new 48v I’ve recently upgraded to. thanks for your suggestion of multiples of 88, will let you know how I get on

Hi Jarob10 My current settings are below, yosepower don't list the reduction ratio but I found this motor on aliexpress that has the same format writing stamped on it so believe it to be the same motor. Mine is 36EW-G27C H19090881 I've tried various C2 settings, i think 4 or 5 also worked but no noticeable difference to the default 0 value. Do you use the same controller ? P1 = 88 (reduction ratio 1:4.4 x 20 mags) P2 = 0 (internal motor speed) P3 = 1 (current control) P4 = 0 (thottle aways active) P5 = 00 (real time voltage) C1 = 05 (KT-V12 sensor) C2 = 0 (sinewave quantum motor - tried others) C3 = 8 (last assist on powerup) C4 = 0 C5 = 04 (current limit) C6 = 1 (lcd brighness) C7 = 0 (cruise control active) C8 = 0 C9 = 0 C10 = n C11 = 0 C12 = 3 (default 40v lvc for 13s5p batt) C13 = 0 C14 = 3 (strong power assist strength)

My new Hailong controller turned up the other day and is now installed running my new 36v 350w rear yose power motor. Unfortunately it doesn't control the motor any where near as good as this temporary non integrated one I've been using: This KT36/48ZWSRM is a perfect match to the wheel (if only it was smaller and integrated). The new hailong controller which i thought would be the same seems to be noisier with a low pitch winding noise. It does work but its not as smooth and quiet as the external one. It vibrates the frame a little more and doesn't run the wheel at full speed with a constant tone. I've been in contact with topbikekit.com and exchanged a lot of messages and videos, they have been very helpful and im impressed with their support. I thought perhaps the new controller wasn't a sine wave model which was why it's a but rougher running but after sending photos of my old one to them and them checking with the manufacture they actually confirm the opposite, my external controller is a square wave and the internal is definitely a sine wave controller. Tried all sorts of settings and parameters they had suggested but nothing seems to make the new controller run the motor as smooth. The have offered me a full refund including return postage so can't say fairer than that. I can't decide whether to live with the slightly rougher running for a clean look bike or go back to the external one in a triangle bag again at the moment. Thought i'd share my findings in case anyone was planning on using the same combination. I've uploaded 3 videos comparing the 2 controllers on youtube here:

Thanks Scott, New wheel has a cassette rather than freewheel so hoping it's nothing wrong with the cassette 'holder'? (not sure what its called ) on the wheel itself. I'll have to have another go and look in daylight to try and determine what's happening. Al least I don't have any electric gremlins any more.

All sorted...eventually! New Yose rear wheel kit arrive friday. It was the 4in1 loom that was at fault even though i tested each individual cable end to end. Used it with my existing kit and everything worked fine. Switched back to old loom again just to be sure and had no speedo reading and slow response from pas, the system shut off after a few seconds of applying throttle. I actually broke my existing throttle, whilst taking it apart to check it i managed to snap the hall sensor off the end of the wire. So out of the entire new kit all I needed was a new wiring loom and throttle. I decided to stick with my existing LCD3 and use one of the new external 48v Kt controllers I got from amazon along with my new 48v battery. Was really impressed, the motor was quieter and smoother with the the newer 9 mosfet controller compared to the original and road exactly as I wanted, had C5 parameter set to 5 to limit the torque which was perfect a big improvement all round over my previous setup. Until the rear axle snapped! Think this was my fault looking back i'm questioning whether i had done the wheel nuts up tight enough and I'd forgotten to fit the bolt into the torque arm to hold it to the frame . Luckily it went when i applied throttle a bit from standstill, I though the axle had just popped off the frame on one side till i pushed it home to inspect and found one side was held tight whilst the other side still turned, it has snapped inside the wheel. So after thinking I had spent a lot on spares I actually needed the new wheel as well! All back together now with the new wheel in place and bolts done up much tighter, need a new torque are as the previous on got damaged and twisted on the old wheel. I bought the cassette version this time rather than the freehub i had before as I still had my original wheel with 9 speed cassette and that had an 11T cog which i liked where as I could previously only find a freewheel with a 13T. The new wheel also doesn't have 350W engraved on the side, instead the it just says '36EW-G27C H19090881'. There was just a 350w sticker that seems so of fallen off ;-) So everything now working great, had to use the yose triangle bag to hide the controller until the new battery holder integrated one turns up from china ( topbikekit now saying they will ship after 01/03/2020 ) The only issue I had on a quick final test ride tonight was a strange slipping feeling sometimes when i tried to pedal with force, couldn't hear the chain jumping and it didn't change cog but for a min the pedals seem to turn without pulling the rear wheel round - almost felt as it the cassette slipped, strange as there was no clunk or grinding just a smooth quick movement of the pedals for a split second without resistance.

On Aliexpress it lets you choose where to ship from and germany was an option. So I went for that, came via DHL and I had full tracking from the pickup in germany to my door

Yes I suspect your right. Indeed that would be the plan to hopefully sell all unrequired kit. Depending on what's faulty with mine (if it is just the motor) I might have a lishui controller, display, 4in1 cable, pas and throttle to sell on.

Thanks for looking, i found a photo looking similar to your explanation on a german electric bike forum. It was also all covered in a waterproof grey coating and not possible to see writing on the cap. I wonder if there's any kind of resistance test you can do with a multimeter to determine the value. Obviously if I can't confirm I won't try it with my 48v battery and stick to the dual voltage KT Controller. Should be a smoother controller than the original 36v integrated KT controller though - that was only a 6 Mosfet. My Original KT controller that came with the yosepower kit looks identical to this one which is listed there as a 36/48 controller so I wonder if that would of worked with a 48v battery anyway. Again cant see the rating as its underneath the cap

My first battery with the yosepower kit is also a hailong but the smaller size. That one lined up perfect with the existing 2 bottle cage screw holes. Your right this newer slightly taller one has different mounting holes. Having it in the same location on my frame ment the first hole lined up with the top bottle cage screw location but ive had to put a rivenut in the frame a couple of inches up for the second mounting hole. No problem putting the rivnet in though, small hole drilled very easily in the frame just big enough to get the rivenut in - so don't let that put you off

That's more like it. Hopefully they will get a new one to you quickly - why do have to accept a smaller one? Just stock levels? I've taken the plunge and bought the yosepower 28" 350w motor kit. Looks like it comes with different controller and display now rather than the KT kit the my first yose set came with. At least now I will have another throttle, pas, controller, 4in1 cable, and wheel/motor. Hopefully I can then find what's been causing the issues I've been having - either one component fault or multiple. Once my bike is up and running again and I can diagnose where the failure was I'll either keep the rest of the parts as spare or sell them to recoup some cash. Be interesting to know if the lishui controller has a 63v cap to allow 48v battery use - im guessing not. Also I have a feeling these controllers don't allow throttle use without first activating pedal assist or adjusting LVC like the KT controllers.

I've just bought the 48V 14.5AH samsung E29 for £212 from them via aliexpress - came in 3 days! Looks like price has increased a bit now, Yet to get my bike up and running again to use it though.