jarob10

May be a long shot, but I purchased a battery new from china last year - it was DOA until I established a Bluetooth connection to the BMS, and then enabled the charging & discharge port.

Another approach is to use waterproof trousers with overshoes built in. Decathlon do them. Keeps legs dry as well as feet, and pedal cleats still work if you use them

Do you get an error code on the display?

Any KT controller should work, mostly I use the controller integrated into my hailong battery base. You’ll need to splice into the hall / phase wires, but the colour codings have been established so not too difficult. Motor characteristics need programming into the KT controller too. Do a search on this forum for more details. I think something as trivial as a blown hall sensor (ie water getting into the throttle) can blow the integrated bbs controller. KT controllers are way more robust - I run mine at max current all the time with no issues.

Had a similar experience with bbs01 controllers dying. Switched to external KT controllers 4+ years ago which have been flawless, even on bbs02’s

Assuming your legs are long enough, I’d recommend one of those full suspension decathlon bikes in XL size discussed on here recently. then add a Q128c 500w rear hub + hailong battery on the downtube.

Maybe 0512?

Yep I’ve done this mod too - especially useful on 500w+ motors. I only use the green momentary though, the red operates a ‘full beam’ handlebar light

One modification I always do is upgrade the supplied cap head screws to stainless versions. The standard cap heads seize, so sooner or later you’ll be having to drill & stud extract out. Another suggestion would be semi-permanent thread lock of the 2 cap heads which hold the anti rotation rotation plate. There is a temptation to over torque these cap heads, resulting in stripping the aluminium threads.

Ditch the small chain ring to create some space?

Hollow it out and use as a cover, then use an external kt controller

Yep sounds like pawls. Dt Swiss onyx pawls work on my bbs01

Only a tiny blob used in the spoke thread, and the grease tends to get pushed out away from the tube when winding in the spoke. Rim tape acts as a barrier. I’ve never seen inner tube dissolving problems.

A blob of marine (thick) grease on the spoke threads helps with this. It also equalises thread friction which I’ve found helps when truing, and hopefully slows rate of corrosion between dissimilar nipple/ spoke materials.

I had similar problems with a bbs02 hard tail. I settled on a 36hole hub with Big Ben tyre and all seems well. I also use a rim designed for calliper brakes, as I think these may be a bit stiffer. 14g spokes are optimum as well. I noticed recently that (fatter) 13g nipples (in certain rims) force a near 90 degree angle against the rim. Swapping to the slimmer 14g nipple, and the extra space available means the nipple angle can rotate more freely and ultimately point towards the hub spoke hole when tensioned. Crucially, this avoids an induced shear load on the spoke.during the wheel build

So 9mm clearance on the XL if the OP has a 110mm tall battery

From experience, I’d give Evans a wide berth.

Battery clearance looks tight but maybe possible in an XL size on this decathlon offering: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/27-5-full-suspension-mountain-bike-st-540-s-blue-orange/_/R-p-301117

isn’t the deal breaker here that CF dropouts can’t be filed out to suit the fatter hub axle?

Maybe try credit card charge reversal?

excellent donor bike, assuming the battery goes in. The additional mechanical integration work will be well worth it The harness is easy to chop up & resolder. Get yourself plenty of adhesive heat shrink. Higo connectors are available now on Ali express, but the original connectors can be reused.

Have you considered a bike carrier? I used to have a Witter tow ball mounted version. Not cheap, but I could load 3 bikes in less than a minute.

Hi, the controller seal wouldn’t necessarily need to be be disturbed when greasing the BBS02 large gear behind the chain wheel.

never had a problem with overheat, although I do run an external controller. Acceleration is fine, and will pull my 85kg away from stationery no problem. 28t is reserved for when the battery is flat. my usage case is road only, with clip pedals so please bear that in mind

For road use, I’m using 52t with 11-28 on the back