Energizer Bunny

Cairn Cycles sell a specific case:- https://www.cairncycles.com/products/cairn-range-extension-pack-fazua-battery-case I'm always chasing a bargain so went down a different path with 2 bottle holders, you could just use the larger one using bubble wrap around the battery. These are in a rucksack, but you could adapt for frame or handlebar mount. Just use a cloth to prevent contact pins touching aluminium insulation (unlikely but may cause arching) Small bag (battery fits perfectly, material is thin):- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09KRWHJ8G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Larger bag (material is robust but battery is loose, either use in combination with small bag or with bubble wrap) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08LZLX5X3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can get the 503 error with a faulty speed sensor, it is ridiculous that Bosch can brick the motor in this instance. They are making unreasonable profit from their own quality issues.

I recently acquired a cube EXP with the ALP, my other ebikes are CX and old Performance line. It is really good for commuting, the limiter is no where near as bad as the CX I fitted to my old commuter. It is ridable through the limiter up to 20mph on flat, I like the lights, and battery cover, a smart bike. One gripe is the cadence, you can easily hit the 105rpm limit, I have turned on the shift recommendation to remind me to change gear.

The motor casing and bolt positions look very similar to active line, so hopefully could fit older frames. Not sure if Purion or Intuvia would need software update.

I will post this here just to help others who may have the same issue where you cannot push oil in to the caliper. There is a great youtube video for bleeding HS11 / HS33, just turn on subtitles and auto-translate:- Nice note is that he has put a small hole in the lever syringe which enables it to fill, with the plunger fitted. Manuals are here:- https://www.magura.com/media/1742/hs11_hs33_2014_en_06.pdf I brought a bleed kit off ebay (total bleed solutions - others like epic are available). The HS11 have an EBT plug (not a threaded screw like more expensive siblings). This is a bit fiddly to remove and this plug turn out to be the cause of my issue. After fitting all the syringes I could not push the caliper syringe in, it was like the system was still closed. Eventually as I push harder and harder the pressure built up and the plastic hose came off the syringe. It did not make sense, so I unscrewed the lever hydraulic hose to see if the oil would flow out when I pushed the syringe in, which of course it did. Quite messy make sure you have plenty of paper towels and alcohol spray. When looking at the fitting on the lever hose I checked the length against the lever body and EBT port and realised that it was blocking the EBT port when fully tightened. So I added an O-ring for luck and loosely re-fitted the hydraulic hose to the lever. The bleed process then worked fine, just as in the video, the oil was pushed up in to the lever syringe. I tightened the hydraulic hose up (8mm fitting) after removing the syringes. For those who think that Magura rim brakes do not need bleeding, the fresh royal blood is clear sky blue, the flushed old stuff was black as soot.

I was looking for the Bosch kit and noticed that performanceline bearings are now selling them:- https://www.performancelinebearings.com/product/bosch-motor-service-repair-kit-bdu2xx/

Last week I had the pleasure of dealing with Pete the Bearing Man, and cannot speak higher of his services.

Image of offending Circlip and my dremel. This was with a standard disc, I did order the reinforced cutting disc, but got impatient and tried the standard one.

There was bit of collateral damage to the case and axle from the dremel, but I had no other choice.

A couple more tips...... No. 1 don't buy a 2nd hand ebike, expecting to easily pop in some new bearings and be good to go. You might be unlucky like me. No. 2 if said ebike has a broken circlip on the non-drive crank arm, with both eyes missing, then you need a rotary dremel style tool. I first tried prying and tapping and drilling and using an oscillating style multi tool , without success, but a dremel with the standard cutting disc worked. My method was to fit a pedal to the drive side and tie off on chain stay to stop the crank rotating, plus use a pin punch jammed into the circlip groove to stop it rotating. I approximately cut the circlip at its mid point. Once it had a big enough groove in it I was able to tap it out with a hammer and the pin punch.

To answer my question here is an image of the frame with split section. https://www.cube.eu/media_ftp/BIKE_Bilder_2016/768400/details/D768400_12.jpg

As a tip, for others. On a 2nd hand bike the main drive side bearing had disintegrated. The outer race was jammed inside the motor cover. It would not budge, so after some googling, I popped the cover in the oven for 15mins on gas mark 2 bearing race facing down. Afterwards it drifted out easily with a few taps. The web site suggested that they often drop out, aluminium expands more than steel with increased temp (until it melts.......). https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1112063-crankcase-bearings-oven-method/ Hopefully this helps other diy bearing converts.

The bearing looks like this. Thanks for the reply.

Hi Bearing Man Thank-you for offering the bearing kits and the fantastic youtube videos. I think I have purchased from your ebay site:- heatwave690 Any ways after some help / advice please. On a second bike I brought with an active line motor the main bearing has disintegrated. The outer race is jammed in the motor cover and the inner race is jammed on the main drive pulley assembly. Do you have any advice on removing them please? Additionally, whilst the bike was used by the previous owner with no drive side main bearing there was a lot of play in the pedal axle which has cracked 2 of the torx lugs off the motor cover. The lugs are still present and I planned to repair using JB weld epoxy adhesive. Have you had any success repairing cracked motor cover lugs? Alternatively do you sell any motor covers your-self from un-repairable drive units? Thanks Jason

Hi guys (Mrgeoff in particular) Do you know how the belt fits, does the frame split apart? It is difficult to see on the photos. Does the automatic cadence work okay, or does it annoy you not being "in control" of gears? Thanks