Energizer Bunny

Cairn Cycles sell a specific case:- https://www.cairncycles.com/products/cairn-range-extension-pack-fazua-battery-case I'm always chasing a bargain so went down a different path with 2 bottle holders, you could just use the larger one using bubble wrap around the battery. These are in a rucksack, but you could adapt for frame or handlebar mount. Just use a cloth to prevent contact pins touching aluminium insulation (unlikely but may cause arching) Small bag (battery fits perfectly, material is thin):- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09KRWHJ8G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Larger bag (material is robust but battery is loose, either use in combination with small bag or with bubble wrap) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08LZLX5X3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can get the 503 error with a faulty speed sensor, it is ridiculous that Bosch can brick the motor in this instance. They are making unreasonable profit from their own quality issues.

I recently acquired a cube EXP with the ALP, my other ebikes are CX and old Performance line. It is really good for commuting, the limiter is no where near as bad as the CX I fitted to my old commuter. It is ridable through the limiter up to 20mph on flat, I like the lights, and battery cover, a smart bike. One gripe is the cadence, you can easily hit the 105rpm limit, I have turned on the shift recommendation to remind me to change gear.

The motor casing and bolt positions look very similar to active line, so hopefully could fit older frames. Not sure if Purion or Intuvia would need software update.

I will post this here just to help others who may have the same issue where you cannot push oil in to the caliper. There is a great youtube video for bleeding HS11 / HS33, just turn on subtitles and auto-translate:- Nice note is that he has put a small hole in the lever syringe which enables it to fill, with the plunger fitted. Manuals are here:- https://www.magura.com/media/1742/hs11_hs33_2014_en_06.pdf I brought a bleed kit off ebay (total bleed solutions - others like epic are available). The HS11 have an EBT plug (not a threaded screw like more expensive siblings). This is a bit fiddly to remove and this plug turn out to be the cause of my issue. After fitting all the syringes I could not push the caliper syringe in, it was like the system was still closed. Eventually as I push harder and harder the pressure built up and the plastic hose came off the syringe. It did not make sense, so I unscrewed the lever hydraulic hose to see if the oil would flow out when I pushed the syringe in, which of course it did. Quite messy make sure you have plenty of paper towels and alcohol spray. When looking at the fitting on the lever hose I checked the length against the lever body and EBT port and realised that it was blocking the EBT port when fully tightened. So I added an O-ring for luck and loosely re-fitted the hydraulic hose to the lever. The bleed process then worked fine, just as in the video, the oil was pushed up in to the lever syringe. I tightened the hydraulic hose up (8mm fitting) after removing the syringes. For those who think that Magura rim brakes do not need bleeding, the fresh royal blood is clear sky blue, the flushed old stuff was black as soot.

I was looking for the Bosch kit and noticed that performanceline bearings are now selling them:- https://www.performancelinebearings.com/product/bosch-motor-service-repair-kit-bdu2xx/

Last week I had the pleasure of dealing with Pete the Bearing Man, and cannot speak higher of his services.

Image of offending Circlip and my dremel. This was with a standard disc, I did order the reinforced cutting disc, but got impatient and tried the standard one.

There was bit of collateral damage to the case and axle from the dremel, but I had no other choice.

A couple more tips...... No. 1 don't buy a 2nd hand ebike, expecting to easily pop in some new bearings and be good to go. You might be unlucky like me. No. 2 if said ebike has a broken circlip on the non-drive crank arm, with both eyes missing, then you need a rotary dremel style tool. I first tried prying and tapping and drilling and using an oscillating style multi tool , without success, but a dremel with the standard cutting disc worked. My method was to fit a pedal to the drive side and tie off on chain stay to stop the crank rotating, plus use a pin punch jammed into the circlip groove to stop it rotating. I approximately cut the circlip at its mid point. Once it had a big enough groove in it I was able to tap it out with a hammer and the pin punch.

To answer my question here is an image of the frame with split section. https://www.cube.eu/media_ftp/BIKE_Bilder_2016/768400/details/D768400_12.jpg

As a tip, for others. On a 2nd hand bike the main drive side bearing had disintegrated. The outer race was jammed inside the motor cover. It would not budge, so after some googling, I popped the cover in the oven for 15mins on gas mark 2 bearing race facing down. Afterwards it drifted out easily with a few taps. The web site suggested that they often drop out, aluminium expands more than steel with increased temp (until it melts.......). https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1112063-crankcase-bearings-oven-method/ Hopefully this helps other diy bearing converts.

The bearing looks like this. Thanks for the reply.

Hi Bearing Man Thank-you for offering the bearing kits and the fantastic youtube videos. I think I have purchased from your ebay site:- heatwave690 Any ways after some help / advice please. On a second bike I brought with an active line motor the main bearing has disintegrated. The outer race is jammed in the motor cover and the inner race is jammed on the main drive pulley assembly. Do you have any advice on removing them please? Additionally, whilst the bike was used by the previous owner with no drive side main bearing there was a lot of play in the pedal axle which has cracked 2 of the torx lugs off the motor cover. The lugs are still present and I planned to repair using JB weld epoxy adhesive. Have you had any success repairing cracked motor cover lugs? Alternatively do you sell any motor covers your-self from un-repairable drive units? Thanks Jason

Hi guys (Mrgeoff in particular) Do you know how the belt fits, does the frame split apart? It is difficult to see on the photos. Does the automatic cadence work okay, or does it annoy you not being "in control" of gears? Thanks

You could "downgrade" to 8 speed, Sunrace make a wide range 8 speed steel cassette (11-40):- http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/wide-range-8x1-sunrace-csm680-1040600.html The wider 8-speed chain should be more reliable for the higher torques, plus the component costs are very reasonable. Basically EX1 on the cheap.

Great to hear that. It is a leap of faith, but ok if you take your time. Was there much dirt inside your motor?

I guess you right, but the salesman isn't going to highlight these issues which could mean that your £6000 purchase cannot be ridden or repaired in 2 years time, once the warranty period ends. You may be able to sell off the components to recoup some of the money, or if you are lucky you can buy a second hand e-bike and swap over the drive unit. Which might not work as it could have unmatched software coding. This thread and my experience have been quite sobering. However I am not sure which will win, my ebike etched Joker grin, or my nervous about reliability frown.

On mine i did not add extra grease to the metal gears, the gears left in the motor seemed very clean. Where there was a dob of grease on one of the nylon gears and it was very tacky when rotating by hand. I did use silicone grease on the bearing, and when re-assembling the bearing seal. My motor rotates ok now, it is still stiff compared to a standard bike bb, but much better than before. It seems quieter with a longer range to boot. btw I did this because I had no other choice, I did not ask a bike shop. Although from what I have seen, Bosch are only interested in warranting motors as complete drive units and are not really supporting secondary market. Knowing what I know now I would not buy another Bosch either new or second hand. My experience of buying bits of manual bikes on ebay and building them up doesn't fit with ebikes. Despite the massive costs they seem to be disposable if they go wrong, hardly environmentally friendly.

Image of gears as removed from drive unit, still attached to plate. These gears lift off, slight tap required.

Using old bearing as a guide to tap home new bearing. Obviously only tap outer race and ensure it goes in uniformly and fully, the grease helps indicate it is fully home. Fingers are very good for feeling any miss-alignment.

Open case, I was surprised how clean it looked inside, it is very well sealed. I use my bike on very wet and muddy Dartmoor. Bike is upsidedown, I did consider putting on its side for when I pulled the driveside cover away, but carried on ok as it is.

I just replaced my drive side bearing on cX motor. It is straight forward enough, just requires a bit of tapperty--tap-tap-tap. I used enduro bearings and you in addition to normal bike tools you need the Bosch chain ring tool. 1) remove battery (do not risk motor starting with fingers in it). 2) clean bike 3) take off pedals (crank puller needs octalink insert) 4) optional remove chain (I gave mine a clean and oil). Quick links are useful. 5) Use Bosch chain ring tool to remove chain ring screw cover. Chain ring comes off. 6) remove plastic covers from motor. 7) remove circlip from driveside axle. 8) prise off ring and plastic grease cover if fitted to drive side axle. 9) clean all dirt off aluminium motor 10) optional remove motor discount cables. I did not do this. 11) pick the glue out of torx bolt heads, drive side. 12) undo torx bolts 13) prise open motor gently. 14) the cover will come off probably with white plastic gears attached. 15) lift white satellite gear off. 16) pull main gear out of axle shaft reveals roller bearings (pictured below) 17) you should only have drive side cover and bearing. Tap it out. 18) clean grease, tap new bearing in, I used old bearing to tap home. 19) clean plastic gears if dirty. 20) reassembly the plastic gears they slide together nicely. 21) reassemble to motor body, line up gently and feel gears slide home. 22) put it all back together. My bike is second hand so no choice. Unlike new enduro bearings, the old bearing is only sealed on one side. Do this at your own risk invalidate warranty etc etc.

How do you get at the non-drive bottom bracket bearing? I can remove the circlip, but the motor housing suggests i need to pull the whole internal motor out to get access. Has anyone successfully re-greased in-situ, prying the inner lip of the seal up? Thanks for the good info, I brought my bike 2nd hand and get really fed up with the "replaced under warranty / no need to service replies". I repair all my bikes and enjoy doing so.

On a group ride one guy on manual was struggling and we swapped, up until that point I have been off or eco, dutifully waiting for him to catch up. No sooner did we swap, he discovered the Turbo button and disappeared into the distance. Needless to say he isn't getting a second go.