PatM

Well, i just chopped the plug off and extended my battery wires from a new Hailong holder (as one turns up whether you want it or not when you buy a battery) and the new contoller is in the bag that comes with the Yosepower kit- so my 2 bikes now look the same- but yet to take it out as its been chucking it down while I was replaceing the intergrated . Sturmey is correct in that the rear kit is supposed to be 30% increase in power over the 250W- but as far as riding it is concerned- I feel no difference. Ill been keen to see if there is any after ditching the intergrated one. I do know that it (the old one) has MORE mosfet that the one Ive just re-wired and secured.

Hi- I’ve built an ebike from a kit about 12 years ago- decent sized from hub and 24v originally, but I took it up to 36v and it had more power and was very useable- I’ve no idea what make the hub is and I’ve never been able to open it as I’ve not got a large enough c-spanner. The controller was a Leyen type- the Ebay seller had bought these kits and realised they were less attractive than he thought, so sold them. It was this bike I cut my teeth on as far as ebikes. Roll on a few years- I had 2 aluminium framed MTBs and I did a Covid project- one a front and a year later, the other a rear YosePower kits. The kits are easy to build and legal- the front one is 250w 36v and the rear 350w. The rear one has an integrated controller; the front is a tradition style- both are LISHUI and its these that I’m going to share my wisdom on. The hubs can be dismantled as they are screws, but careful wit the length of set-screws for your disc brakes- the supplied ones are too short and the threads fail. Its been covered a few times on here- the LISHUI with the c500 user-interface cannot be modified from the screen other than the most basic of functions The front wheel controller lasted me about 2000 miles then the front light interface stopped working- I thought it was the lead open circuit, or the lamp itself- but it was a 510ohn wire-wound resistor that had burnt out- big time. So, I replaced the controller and back in business- its handy having a light controlled of the c500 scree, as I ride all year, all weathers. Now- the rear Yose kit- its got the integrated controller- that means the battery connector/plate has the controller built in and its potted- They pop up on ebay every so often- BROKEN. I’m not sure if its overheating- but I haven’t noticed mine getting hot- it is after all completely exposed. I have noticed now for some while that occasionally when I’m on a hill, the motor seems to single-phase and gets noisy- so I suspect a hall or phase is losing- and I suspect it’s the controller that’s about to go- as it does ‘hang’ on slightly- keep powering after either PAS or thumb throttle are released. I’ve bought a rear wheel controller- non-integrated- but it will need a power lead, as all LISUI controllers have JULET connectors. The front and read controllers appear not to be interchangeable- not sure why- the plugs don’t clip home- so when my controller fails, ill modify the battery connector/holder to have 2 fly leads to the replacement controller and ill remove the JULET connector, as YosePower want £10 for the lead…

By out of sequence, I see what you meant. I trusted the colour discipline would have been adhered to, but I was wrong- the originals switch black white, but the reed/magnets switched black red... All working now.

I've cut them off and re-joined, colour for colour- the switches came with male plugs- what I needed was female sockets, so I cut them off my old leavers and soldered them onto the new ones in place of what they came with. So, I could just plug them into the loom.

Ive got a Yose Power kit that I fitted a year ago and its been trouble free except the pedal sensors not keen on water. Ive done 1600 miles on it since last August and highly recommend the kit as its easy to fit (front wheel version) Well made and the battery has only lost a vew 'volts' according to the display. Like us all, I have done the usual upgrades to the bike and given the high-maintance on ageing mechanical disc callipers- decided to go for an upgrade to Hydraulic, which was fitted indie and hour and a half, Id guess. They work well and I get a benefit from them. I put up with the lack of micro-switches to cu the motor, but there is a benefit- so I bought a kit of sensors, which needed some modification to get them sensing the magnets, that you obviously have to retrofit. They turn off or open the connection when they should and when the lever returns, they complete the circuit- all goody. However, I get an E9 fault on applying the brake leavers, the headlight (if on) goes out and the bike needs resetting- till it does it again on the first application of the brakes. If I disconnect the Julet plugs (which I had to swap from my originals, as I ended up with 2 male orange plugs, rather than a 3-pin plug and corresponding socket) - the bikes back as it was, no problem, but no brake cut-off. Is it possible that there's something else in the brake-leavers that came with the kit that I've not reckoned on? to suit CANBUS? When I cut off the plugs and re-attached the sockets from my old Yose Power brake leavers, there were 3 wires, red white, black which I followed and soldered/self-amalgamating taped up. Just connecting one switch still gives the same error.

Thats no mean feat doing that! Same terrain as crough patrick in Eire- You wouldnt be able to do the last bit.

Kent- Famous place Squire! Say no More! (Im in Maidstone and also ride motorbikes...)

ive got one of their kits and not had too many woes. Good luck and enjoy the ride. I dont know how far 40km is in english, but on a 250w/36v- it might be ambitious - so dont keep it on 5- stay on 3 for the PAS.

Ha! This reminds me of Plumbers, years ago. When it was pipes, water and gas-they were happy. When pumps, programmers, 3rd wires and room-stats became the norm- many were buggered. They had learned their craft for years the same old way- then things started to get a bit technical. What its like now is completely modular- the whole thing gets replaced as its not designed to be dismantled on site or anything to tricky. Firms discourage it- they make more margins on 'a new install'. So, buy a bike thats off the net or worse- one where someone had 'made' it from a conversion kit and you better know a bit or be keen to learn from these good pages or similar! Me- Im an ex lift engineer of 48 years. We experienced the same- electronics simplified controls and wiring- but threw in other challenges.

Thanks-you would think so, wouldn't you. It takes about 3 miles to start making a noise and today, its not as pronounced as it was-but a number of factors-1. Ive had the wheel off and apart. 2. it's wet.Muddy. I did my usual 12 miles late this afternoon-lovely sky but getting cold-10 degrees, and it hardly did it..but it was there. I think is the calliper.... Ill see how the week spans out- if its tipping down, Ill not be going out but if I do go out- it will be on that bike as its got the best off road tyres for my trek.

Thanks, tried spokes and Ive had the disc calliper off and on a number of times, added, subtracted spacers.washers. . Its a replacement aftermarket, as I couldnt get a Zoom direct replacement. I cant remember if the noise was there before I replaced it, because it was a case of the brake simply failed to stop the bike, regardless of new pads or not. I even tried replacing the ball-bearing, but couldt find precisely the same size- so it jammed...Fitting V brakes wasnt an option as the forks have no posts.

Hi all- i decided to do some hub maintenance on one of my bikes that makes a bit of a squeeking noise , which Ive long suspected is the disc, but Ive never really nailed it. I bought and fitted this kit in July- to an unused ally-framed MTB. For anyone whos not seen these kits, they are basic and do the job legally- Ive not yet found a way to go beyond the 25kpmh but I get a resonable workout on this bike. Ive read before about the lack of lubrication, so I thought Id pull the hub, just to check- and share the pics with you all. Not enough lithium grease in my view, so I greased the planetary gears and ring. The clicking, I dont think its the hub now and suspect it is the disc which is slightly warped and possibly heats/distorts when its in use. Its a minor annoyance but Im sure I dont have a hub issue now Ive had it apart. One thing that prevents me putting a new disc on is the hub has an adapter place for the disc- clearly an afterthought -as its so thin and being ally- the threads dont lend themselves to be tigtened too much- so I loctited them, to be on the safe-side. Anyway, i thought Id share pics.

The thread seems to bounce around a bit, or maybe It my lack of attention to reading all the posts, which go back a few years. I have a front wheel conversion from Yosepower which was bought on the cheap in AUGUST 20 just to convert a spare ally MTB I had, which had a decent spec when I bought it back in the mid 2000's I also have an ebike I built and modded back in 2009. which is still going fine, front wheel and probably a 350w motor running a Lyen 15a controller at 36v sourced from Ecrazyman The YosePower is can bus , plug n play and was up and running in about an hour and a half. Its got the LCD display (C500) , but as stated earlier- you cant really do much with it except adjust the PAS levels. Its also not as powerful as my 'old faithful' But I get more of a workout! I will be interested to upgrade/replace the controller at some stage and maybe the display, reading this- as I know the motor is capable of more. I assume my options are limited to the KT range, due to the simplistic can-bus wiring?

I remplaced the chainwheel on my home-brew Stealth which id fitted a Legal 250w front wheel set-up from YosePower and had notice its not as 'fast' top end as my other bike. not that its a vast difference , but my old british Eagle MTB rides much faster than the lighter all ally Stealth. I went 48T chainwheel rather than the 42- Not a hapes' worth of difference and the smaller chainwheel struck the frame...slightly..so I put up with it, knowing it was less than about 25thou. Id suggest leave chainwheel as is, but remove the rear casset first before ordering a new one as some of the fittings are the work of the devil!

It only takes a lapse of concentration- which we are all capable of- Well, I am! Had a battery-fire about 7 years ago- its in my old posts- Nothing I did wrong- but nearly burnt my garage down. I've also had a duff Frog battery arrive and repaired it- but it was like diffusing a bomb (again, on my past posts)

I'm a batfastard and must weigh well over 16 stone. I've got a 250w front hub running at 36v frog battery. I've got a e-crazy man (eBay) controller and I run 22mph on the flat, no kidding, and easy up hills. Being rotund, I'm always pedalling, nut with no sweat. I love my first e-kit and 16 months on, don't understand why more folks don't do it. I like playing with electronics but other than a change of batteries, I've had no issues. I started on 24v then fancied upping the game, just to see if the controller would handle it (9mosfets). Folks on this site were right, it did. A frog is only 10ah but does me on my 5 mile ride out two nights running.

Thanks- all understood! Didn't think the shut wire would add so much resistance. My 36v set up does 31mph off load- the battery charges to 40v initially- so being able to do a constant 18 up gradients and an easy 25 on the flat means that ill gain little at the expense of a flat battery, range-wise. Its too wet to go and get my front-hub dirty/full of water- when it dries up, Ill need to do a range test then balance the benefit of 'shorting the shunt'

D8veh- what/how is this done? soldering the shunt?- I realise or presume you mean the Transistors in the controller, but can yoiu explain what you mean please?

The good news on this is that I was awarded a FULL REFUND and kept the battery and post. I furnished Ebay with the evidence that it is a breach of Regulation to ship a battery unprotected and a further Breach if on receipt, you try and return it! Its all laid out very clearly in the IAM Document, which Im sure made unpleasant reading in China when pointed out to the seller...

[ATTACH]7393.vB[/ATTACH] After a week of checking and re-wiring- I have repaired the damaged frog battery that arrived broken from China. It is ridiculous that goods can be traded like this- there were breaks in tabs between cells and shorts on BMS wiring- the whole thing looked a complete mess. Given Id suffered a fire in September due to a battery- you can imagine my reluctance to 'fix' even though Im a lift engineer and used to working on things. What was so damming was the piece of a paper magazine that was used as an insulator between the two banks of cells- the maker even left the staples in the magazine- quite shocking to have a metal staple bouncing around the battery compartment! Ive inserted plastic card and glued it- the BMS was taped together- with bubble-wrap- which is ok, except that there was little or no insulation to stop it moving about and shorting out on the exposed cells.

d8veh- can you PM your details? patrickjmorgan@btinternet.com- Thanks

Frank, Ive covered that- its his charger that was supplied with the battery! some of the cells are dead- no voltage whatsoever..At least its fitted with a BMS, albeit with tape and bubble wrap as an insulator- oh, and a lump of 0.5mm cardboard...

After my debacle with the exploding LIFEPO4 battery, I’ve come a cropper again- I ordered one from China, I fancied the convenience of being to unplug it- as my son has the same arrangement and the one I ordered had BMS fitted. Anyway, its arrived defective- I’ll have the usual nonsense of fighting with the guy who sold it to me as its literally 'rattling' inside and I’d be prosecuted if I attempted to post it with our Laws over here 9anyone else had that grief and won their case? Anyway- can anyone sell me a 36v 9a Frog battery that works? For the avoidance of any other Forum member falling foul of the same seller- and trust me, the packaging was non-existent- and I had to pay the Import duty, to boot. 36V10Ah ebike ebicycle scooter Frog Lithium Battery and Charger | eBay

They do look the same/similar. The PP payment was to someone called Michael...

Yes, the fire was put out with a hose- water- with no adverse effects to me or the building. It went out in seconds, but it took about 10 mins for me to rig the ruddy hose- and try 2 fire extinghuishers.