mymatephil

From my one off experience.. things to consider To get the wheel in the correct position, a rear hub motor may need to go further back in the frame than the rear drop outs offer.. this means you may need to cut the hole back so check if you need to and if it can be enlarged easily and safely. ( My rockrider 8.1 worked fine with no cutting.) The type of bottom bracket on your bike and the amount of room around your front gears may necessitate a specific pedal sensor . the more basic your bike the less worry this is.. hydraulic brakes are great . hydraulic brake cut off switches are not so cheap /easy to get. To save rapid brake pad wear a cut off is a good idea, mechanical disc brakes would make life simpler. Having hydraulic brakes I opted for a thumb kill switch like this . On another thread I mentioned I didn't like the firmness of the seating of the battery on the frame. You should consider the thickness / cross section of the downtube if you are planning on placing your battery there , also you may have to consider drilling some extra bottle holder screw rivnut holes. I got away without doing that so far. As I understand it, the smaller wheels are better for uphills. I have an oxydrive cst kit they seem to be on offer here and at 27.5inches .. mine is 26 and those seem to be all gone. however, I dont know why they now sell options of road legal 250w and off road only 350w since I understood the difference to be in the settings.( It could be the hub markings ?) This may have been discussed elsewhere, I havent been here in a while. That kit makes my rear end heavy. I imagine larger ones must be noticably worse. I weigh 17.5 stone and it has plenty of power to ride up muddy hills It is not a motorbike though and I still pedal about the same as a normal bike on the flat..obviously harder if I want to go faster. It is proper fun exercise. Personally, I now prefer an All Mountain / enduro geometry so if I were to do it again I would look for a hardtail AM host bike. but you have to be sure the battery will fit where you want it. and I would still go with larger tyres for rear cushioning rather than rear suspension but thats just personal opinion..

D8veh thankyou for your time...yes I could do that and it seems I will probably eventually do so.. but I still fancy a backpack and would like to know what are the reasons you dont think that is a good idea?

Well at the moment the bike is a rockrider 8.1 but I think that will change sooner or later... Anyway... my backpack plan .I still fancy plugging wires between the two connectors but I 'm thinking it may be simpler to put the controller and battery in a backpack and simply extend the motor/PAS and display cables. I would still like to know about my battery / controller connector . From what I see online most connections from battery to controller are just POS and NEG , what might the four thinner connections be on mine.?

Thanks for the quick reply Daveh . Unfortunately, it turns out my downtube has a cross section a little bit like this :- http://www.bikesportmichigan.com/reviews/cervelo-p1-2009/lg/p130.jpg

My oxydrive kit is great but the battery doesnt sit very securely on my frame. and since I want to bounce around on the rough stuff, I think it might be better to carry it in a backpack.. I reckon If I left the controller on the frame, all I would need is a cable which can connect to the battery/battery housing plugs.. has anyone done this before.. can I get cable connectors to fit this?

are these ebay things any good?

I'm sure you have already found this http://www.adrenalinatv.co.uk/?product=haibike-xduro-crank-set maybe you could go for a thread repair service?such as http://www.davesbikeshed.co.uk/prices

It worked. It worked !! It seemed like a loooong ten seconds and the options were scrolling but It eventually got to the second level.. Thanks D8veh , my nagging doubts have all disappeared..

I have begun to install a new oxydrive 13A CST kit to my bike.. The display is the C6 described here. (http://www.oxydrive.co.uk/support/manuals/OXYDrive-C6-LCD-manual.pdf) I have not yet installed the PAS ring but it tested fine. However I see the throttle only takes the bike to 4.7 MPH I couldnt get to any max speed settings as described earlier in this thread. But if I press the 'down' button and hold it I get the 6Kmh Push Cruise Control mode which behaves exactly the same as if i have twisted my throttle. Is the throttle only a pushing aid now? or have I done something wrong?

ps4cg This has been a very entertaining read for a sunday afternoon.. It gets quite confusing so forgive me if I repeat something already mentioned. I noticed nobody asked yet... "work at 36V as I can get these batteries very cheaply." how many can you get? how cheaply?.. you could maybe trade your way with these to a great ebike. PAS refers to pedelec assist sensor so you know your first kit linked to has power assist. I looked a ciclotek to see if their XFC central motor kit was cheaper than BBS02 there is nothing in it and they are out of stock anyway but.. their 'considerations' state Installation may not be reversible. The core motor is strongly attached to the bottom bracket, and this installation should be final. which seems to not be what was wanted. I imagine this applies to all CD motors?

I think a stoppie is a rolling endo..

If better components on an less well known brand is ok then.. http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/calibre-two-two-alloy-hardtail-mountain-bike-p275612 which has a great review here: http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/category/bikes/mountain-bikes/hardtail/product/review-calibre-two-two-13-47865/ similar stuff can be found if you have a Decathlon store near you.: http://www.decathlon.co.uk/rockrider-560-mountain-bike-id_8293151.html or online only stores such as: https://www.canyon.com/en/mountainbikes/bike.html?b=3600#