Wow - that's tiny! I can feel a purchase coming on.

 

I would hold off for a little while if you want to see how well it works. There are a few challenges I have already identified, one of which I suspect is that the motor might not be as quiet as the current "Nano" variant . I am just uploading more pics as I type.

 

Regards

 

Jerry

Ok lets continue with the comparison of what I will call the current Nano and the new Goldant motors.

 

Lets start with weights.

 

Nano

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7105/7163872286_a200544332_z.jpg

 

 

Goldant

 

 

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5466/7163872170_35e31c2f41_z.jpg

 

 

I guess slight extra over published specs is for wire and washer/nut fittings.

 

 

Main body/flanges

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7087/7163872378_9c06dc0220_z.jpg

 

 

On the Goldant the main body is wider as are the flanges. The wire exit side has a flatter face than the Nano. The engineers at work also think the machining is better on the Goldant ?

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7217/7163872584_a3da852925_z.jpg

Edited May 9, 201213 yr by jerrysimon

Goldant flange inner width is 10mm wider than the Nano. The OLD (Over Locknut Dimension) is the same for both motors at about 82mm

 

 

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5322/7163872664_505fcf944e_z.jpg

 

 

Goldant flange diameter. I think the Nano is about 120mm. Distance between hole centres is 90mm.

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7232/7163872758_6f28707094_z.jpg

 

 

Spec/Motor markings. Note this is also motor number 0001. They seem to be marking them specifically for buyers, hence I get the marking JS0001 (jerrysimon). The Nano is marked as 250W whereas this is marked as 200W. Both motors are of course 36v. They also send a test sheet for your specific motor (I will scan and post that in a bit). They seem to be making them to order as mine took two weeks before it was shipped. Again as stated, this can be a good thing as it allows you to select number of drilled holes in this case 36. I wanted to try it out on a couble of bikes otherwise I would have ordered it speically in 28h for the Brompton to keep things simple.

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7077/7163872840_6abac3e728_z.jpg

Edited May 9, 201213 yr by jerrysimon

I whipped out the Nano from my existing EBrompton conversion to see how the new motor will fit in. Despite the wider main body it does fit in the Brompton and clear the forks just!

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7221/7163873134_470e8e4ace_z.jpg

 

 

Spacing either side is close and requires two washer on the non cable side and one on the cable (drive) side. Hub looks about centre but I don't know until I put it in a rim. May require a couple more washers for centering.

 

 

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5152/7163872926_e73f28d276_z.jpg

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7221/7163873004_5a91c3b0ea_z.jpg

 

 

The bigger challenges seem to be with the controller, details and more pics to follow shortly

 

 

Regards

 

Jerry

Edited May 9, 201213 yr by jerrysimon

Jerry, if you can overvolt it and see if it works fine to 48V it would be helpful to the tweaking community lol

 

I'd love to have a motor like this doing 20+ mph...

 

ok, this is just my dream...

cwah as this is an as yet untried motor I will be treating it with kids gloves

 

Actually the ones without the controller built in are not as expensive. This one worked out at about £120 incl shipping.

 

If anyone is thinking of ordering one make sure you ask for the V brake version in the narrow 80mm width (not shown on the web site) or you will end up with the roller brake version shown on their web site. I did that previously with some Nanos I ordered and it was all a bit of a shock when they arrived lol.

 

I have the specific part number if people want it.

 

Regards

 

Jerry

Edited May 9, 201213 yr by jerrysimon

Spacing either side is close and requires two washer on the non cable side and one on the cable (drive) side. Hub looks about centre but I don't know until I put it in a rim. May require a couple more washers for centering.

 

 

I suspect you'll have to add washers on the cable side too as the flange is closer to the fork on this side than it is on the non-cable side. Otherwise you'd have to build your wheel dished to have the rim centred.

 

Richard

I can not believe how small this motor is. It looks no bigger than the old Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub.Talk about stealth...

Neptune it is a little larger but as you say pretty small. Will be interesting to see how it looks when its laced up into a rim and fitted.

 

Need to speak to catsnapper (Alan) about cutting me a set of spokes

 

Regards

 

Jerry

Ok the controller, again very different from the normal offering.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7099/7163874126_654847061b_z.jpg

 

 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8018/7163874240_186858abd1_z.jpg

 

 

End profile shows curved presumably to enable it to be easily strapped to frame tubing.

 

 

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5455/7163874552_e9d239ecbe_z.jpg

Two wires coming out of each end means limited functionality :

 

1. Power

2. Pedelec

3. Brake Cutout/Switch.. glad this has been included.

4. Motor

 

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5196/7163874436_38affbc593_z.jpg

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7225/7163874366_b22b96d9ca_z.jpg

 

 

This is the wiring diagram I got from them when I asked.

 

 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8164/7171202524_52438290be_z.jpg

Close up of pedelec arrangement

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7222/7163874676_609d536a13_z.jpg

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7237/7163874782_d24c894aed_z.jpg

 

 

I asked about using an existing Tongin controller so I can use my throttle preference and was told this controller is an upgrade in terms of it running the motor better without the start glitches that sometimes occur with the current one. I will probably start off with the supplied controller hopefully figuring out how and if pedelec option works and is suited to my type of use.

 

I have placed my order with Alan for spokes so next update will be once I have built the motor into the rim.

 

I hope others have found this useful.

 

Regards

 

Jerry

Edited May 10, 201213 yr by jerrysimon

@Jerrysimon. I am sure I speak for many others in saying thanks for the time and trouble you have gone to with this thread. I have no immediate plans to build a custom bike, but I find it very interesting to see what others have done, and to see the latest parts available. Your requirements and your approach are not always mainstream, but innovation is not often born of mainstream thinking. I really like that small controller, easy to fit and hide. It is just a shame about the lack of throttle option.

No problem and thanks Neptune. I actually really enjoy posting and including lots of pics. In the past I have found that posts with lots of pictures help me understand what is going on. It also helps form part of my thinking process as my projects progress.

 

You are also right to highlight my requirements are not main stream and as excited as I get about my £20 DIY battery packs, I do try and make readers aware that they fit a very niche requirement.

 

Of course members of the forum are very quick to high light this, which is right and proper for new members looking to get into ebiking.

 

Back to the topic the lack of throttle is disappointing but again talking about mainstream requirements, I think this kit is very much aimed at light fast bikes for which the rider may just want a little help sometimes. I am looking forward to exploring the pedelec option for the first time, though may revert back to throttle if I dislike it.

 

 

 

Regards

 

Jerry

I had a question about the flange thickness and possible problem with the spoke lying over them when laced. Although it looks like the flange is wider on the Goldant it isn't. Both are approx 6mm wide. The shamfer is just less on the Goldant compared to the Nano.

 

Goldant

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7230/7175740478_64f333ec28_z.jpg

 

 

Nano

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7212/7175740546_3493190137_z.jpg

 

 

Here it is shown with spoke fitted head out and head in

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7214/7175740614_de99807529_z.jpg

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7093/7175740682_23cb7e69aa_z.jpg

I will probably lace it radial. The only problem is the countersinks are drilled deeper every alternatate hole either side of the flange, assuming you will be doing one spoke head in and one out for lacing. I may have to do the radial with each spoke head alternating in and out as the countersinks makes it difficult to fit spoke bend into the whole with all spoke heads facing out and also restrict movement of it

 

Raidials look so much nicer if you do them with all the spoke heads on the outside like this.

 

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6041/6878809958_6774396df3_b.jpg

 

 

Anyway Alan is cutting me a nice set of spokes for radial so we will see

 

Regards

 

Jerry

Edited May 11, 201213 yr by jerrysimon

You know the bend of the spoke is suppopsed to go into the "deeper" side of the recessed hole don't you? I.e. don't put the spoke head in the deeper side.

You know the bend of the spoke is suppopsed to go into the "deeper" side of the recessed hole don't you? I.e. don't put the spoke head in the deeper side.

 

No actually I didn't, thanks :o

 

No option of course if I want the radial build to be all spoke heads facing out.

 

Thanks

 

Jerry

Edited May 11, 201213 yr by jerrysimon

No actually I didn't, thanks :o

 

No option of course if I want the radial build to be all spoke heads facing out.

 

Thanks

 

Jerry

 

Looking at your previous photos (though it may just be the angle) it doesn't look like there would be much clearance between the spokes and the forks if the heads were facing in either.

 

Looking forward to hearing how well these new motors run. I wonder if they've improved the weak point w.r.t. that ring that used to break on the old designs.

upgrade touring bike with 98SWXC

 

No problem and thanks Neptune. I actually really enjoy posting and including lots of pics. In the past I have found that posts with lots of pictures help me understand what is going on. It also helps form part of my thinking process as my projects progress.

 

You are also right to highlight my requirements are not main stream and as excited as I get about my £20 DIY battery packs, I do try and make readers aware that they fit a very niche requirement.

 

Of course members of the forum are very quick to high light this, which is right and proper for new members looking to get into ebiking.

 

Back to the topic the lack of throttle is disappointing but again talking about mainstream requirements, I think this kit is very much aimed at light fast bikes for which the rider may just want a little help sometimes. I am looking forward to exploring the pedelec option for the first time, though may revert back to throttle if I dislike it.

 

 

 

Regards

 

Jerry

 

I'm thinking about upgrade my touring bike with 98SWXC:motor. I've got a quotation from sales@keyde.com. The whole set with a motor, wheel rim , 9Ah battery , controler, charger and delivery is 930USD. I am not sure how much import tax will be? ( I live in Dublin, Ireland.

Can you share your experience about this motor. As far as I understand you have the same one. What is maximum assisted speed, how loud is it, what is your general opinion?

 

Regards,

Lukas

Lukas,

 

You are going to have to wait about a week until I finish building this wheel and fit it. Only got it a few days ago.

 

Assisted speed on the flat will be 15mph for this 260RPM version in a 16" rim. You will need to to get the correct RPM for the wheel size you want to fit it too.

 

 

Regards

 

Jerry.

Ok now we are getting some where.

 

Motor laced not yet tensioned/trued up. In the end I had to go for alternate spoke head in/out to take account of the alternate hole counter sinking. Still radial though.

 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8003/7190608994_02c7dba158_b.jpg

 

As highlighted there was concern that the outbound spokes may not clear the fork tubing, but it was ok phew..

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7105/7190607726_3606907960_b.jpg

 

I had to put a new connector on the power lead which was strangely a single core wire with an outer sheath ?

 

I guessed (not a good idea) that the center core was positive. Not sure how you would check anyway ?

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7082/7190608480_d0e6807c7a_z.jpg

 

I am just uploading a Youtube video to show an initial test in current Brompton forks, of the motor/controller using the pedelec function. I have a surprise in store which caught me unaware!

Edited May 13, 201213 yr by jerrysimon

I have a surprise in store which caught me unaware!

 

Ohhh, nice cliffhanger...

I'll sure come back for the next episode!

Ok here is the video of it working. The wheel is not yet tensioned/trued but it gives you an idea of how it all works. The pedelec disk seems to fit but will need a slight modification to make sure it does not foul the BB. The pedelec sensor, or whatever is called, should fit stuck to the bottom of the frame, (where I have duck taped it), though will probably have to be epoxied on.

 

 

[video=youtube_share;-xiSQzxM_pk]http://youtu.be/-xiSQzxM_pk

 

 

The motor seems fairly quiet and the pedelec function is smooth up and down the different cadence rates.

 

Ok the real surprise (for me anyway) and much to the humor of my wife when I was talking on the video, is that the motor itself seems to have some intelligence/built in circuit that arms when you supply power to the controller. This will probably rule out using another controller with throttle. At first I thought it was coming from the controller but the arming sound is definitely coming from the motor. In my RC model aero hobby I have seen brushless controllers make this arming sound, but as I said it seems strange that there in something in the motor itself ?

 

Anyway its all looking good so far

 

 

Regards

 

Jerry

Edited May 13, 201213 yr by jerrysimon

Jerry

 

Most interesting! Nice to see it working well.

 

There may be glue on the sensor already. If there's a small white plastic sheet on one side of the sensor, try peeling it back. On mine, there's glue beneath. I'm not inclined to trust it though; 'belt and braces' seems the way to go.

 

Did you feel the front wheel stopped a bit quick after the pedals stopped turning? It seems like that on the video, but hard to tell.

 

Cheers!