Have still heard nothing from all the emails I have sent. Tried to use it last night but had to give up as it's far too heavy to pedal even without the battery. The quicker I get this problem sorted - the better!!!

I usually receive replies from China during the middle of the night because of the time difference; this means each communication takes 24 hours unless you respond in the early hours.

If you can't wait then I would look for an alternative that closely matches your connectors, perhaps other members could look at your picture and suggest an alternative.

If you could label what each connector goes to that is used on your setup that would help.

Edited March 29, 201214 yr by shemozzle999

Chris, that's quite an old controller you have there, similar to one used on our bikes from 3 years ago. I can check to find a closest match from our parts stock tomorrow, Thursday. The price will be £34 delivered.

Right I have checked out the wiring destinations as best as I can and labelled them accordingly.

 

Here is a picture which should clarify the connections.

 

[ATTACH]3367.vB[/ATTACH]

 

 

If you can find a controller, at the right price of course, that would be helpful.

Edited March 29, 201214 yr by chris301up

Hi all. Still have heard nothing from the many emails sent. Was hoping to have at least sorted out a replacement of some kind by now?

 

Feel lost without my bike...... I hate walking......... Bhah..........!

Hi Chris,

 

I think I might have been a bit hasty in recommending you to take the Chinese supplier route and given you the impression it would be easy.

 

It is not unfortunately, as the language and time barrier can make it quite a lengthy and frustrating process; a bit like my slow internet connection today.

 

Emails need to be short and precise so as not to create confusion at the other end.

 

Multiple emails will almost guarantee this.

 

The site has a contact button for when they are online but this is usually live only in the wee small hours.

 

My best recommendation would be to pursue JuicyBike's kind offer to sort you out a replacement, as you have taken the time to post the labeled up picture of your old one, I am sure he can supply a unit the would only require a minor connector alteration to get you up and running again on your trusty steed.

 

The price he quoted was very reasonable too, he has stepped in on quite a few similar occasions to help members out and I have not seen any negative feedback posted, therefore my recommendation.

 

Perhaps you could PM him and see if the offer is still available.

 

Regards,

Edited March 31, 201214 yr by shemozzle999

Hi Shemozzle99.

 

Thanks for advice. I am missing my so called 'Trusty Steed' so am looking to sort it ASAP.

 

Will PM him and see how I get on?

Right. I am now well and truly peed off! Spent the last few hours rewiring a replacement controller, refitted it - and nothing!

 

Just a thought. Removed displayer unit and connected it across battery wire, but no lights whatsoever. The battery still reads 40-42volts on the output - could a cell be suspect I wonder?

Chris

Remove throttle and power display and both brakes. Leave just the pedal sensor attached to the controller and see if the motor fires-up.

No nothing......! I am just wondering whether the battery charger may be faulty? This would account for enough charge to give a reading on the multimeter but of course not sufficient charge to get the damn thing to work? Looks like it's heading for the local tip.....!

Well, maybe the problem is now either the sensor, or motor - as that's all that is connected.

Try reconnecting the throttle and disconnecting the pedal sensor.

As I mentioned in my previous post I have had nothing else connected except the displayer unit across the main power wires from the battery. No lights illuminate on the displayer unit whatsoever. This, in my opinion, suggests there is insufficient power from the battery?

If the battery is suspect you will find the voltage of the battery drops down when you try and draw power from it. Perhaps if you had a voltmeter connected when you tried connecting something to the battery you could see if the voltage drops away

And you've taken a measurement from the battery with a voltmeter, reading around 40Volts. I wouldn't give up on the battery yet. You should get some reaction from the motor from a reading of 40V, so long as the cables aren't broken and either the throttle, or the pedal sensor is working.

 

You've tried the pedal sensor on its own, and the throttle on its own. I would next check the cable continuity to the throttle...

I appreciate what your saying, but a continuity check isn't going to make any difference if the cables are not connected? I have just connected the displayer unit across the power output from the battery charger and it illuminated fine. I then connected the battery charger to the battery and the indicator light remained on red for about 2 minutes and then it turned to flashing green, which usually indicates a fully charged battery. I then reconnected the displayer unit across the battery charger output again and nothing... I have a sneaky feeling that the battery charger is cutting out too soon before the charging is complete.....? I may leave it until tomorrow now when I have given it more thought..!

Sorry, should have been more clear. Check the cables to the throttle aren't broken and then reconnect it, disconnecting everything else but the motor and battery.

Perhaps taking a break would be sensible. There's always tomorrow and perhaps someone else might give an inspired input in the meantime...

Right.That's It...! I have now totally given up.... Going to take the whole damn bike to the local tip... !

Please do not dump the bike . First of all, prove the battery . To test this in a meaningful way , you need to test it under load. I am assuming your battery is nominally 36 volts. So obtain 3 twelve volt car headlamp bulbs and connect them in SERIES. If you do not know what this means, please ask . Connect this series string across the battery. The bulbs should all light brightly. At the same time connect the voltmeter across the battery, and note if the voltage drops when the bulbs are connected, and by how much. When you have proven the battery, let us know. Together we can crack this without a doubt. If you MUST dump it, dump it in my garage!

You have proven the LED voltage display works by connecting it across the charger. I suspect that you have a high resistance connection either in the main battery leads or in the intercell connections,or a duff cell . I have been misled like that before , you would still get an almost normal reading on a voltmeter, but the resistance would prevent any meaningful current draw. That is why auto-electricians use a rest lamp instead of a volt meter. Car flasher bulbs in series would do , and they are cheaper, but will only pull about 1.75 amps as opposed to headlamp bulbs which will draw about 4 amps.

Edited April 7, 201214 yr by neptune

Neptune's right Chris, you shouldn't give up. I just wish this was one of our bikes so I could better help.

Hi, New member just joined to try help you out bud. Dont do forums to many trolls these days anyways hello all and here goes.

 

My bike (905se) had same fault - turn the key and the lights flickered and then all went dead. Battery was measuring 40 odd volts too when disconnected and charging fine.

 

After checking everything out i found it was the BMS (board in the battery) my bike is one from the first batch in the country so fairly old and I didnt want to invest in a new battery.

 

So... to check if yours is the same try the following

 

Connect it all up to normal order

Inside the control box at the pedals find the wires from the battery(big white connector?).

Stick a digi multimeter in there (key to off position at this point)

Turn the key and see the voltage if it is way less that 40 volts prob be the BMS like mine(i got 40 then jumped to 200mV as the lights dimmed)

 

To get round this issue open the battery and cut the black wire close to the BMS board(make sure its the one that goes to the kettle plug not the charge on) and connect it direct to the battery.

This shorts out the BMS board and gives power direct.

 

This isnt ideal for all be warned that overloading the cells can happen now as the battery management will not cut in to protect them but its an old battery I have got and saving up for new bike so will keep me going in the mean time.

 

Hope this helps if you have any probs with above chuck a reply up. I will keep an eye open for a response. Good luck.

Hi the other thing you could try is to try running the motor with the drive wheel off the ground The charger plugged in this will show it is the battery as the charger has enough power to run the motor with no load on it

 

Frank

Hi Frank was going to call you next week about the COMMUTER PLUS bike will pm you tomoz if that ok dont want to hijack a thread.

 

Must be fate

Thanks for all your advice! I am going to have one final go with it today .... But I'm not going to hold my breath.... I am going to strip the battery down and take a look at the board.

 

I will say I have tried connecting the charger direct to various components and nothing happens, except for the displayer unit which illuminates if connected direct to the charger, but NOT if connected to the charger via the controller unit. (That's the charger connected to the main power feed into the controller unit).... This is why I mentioned in an earlier post that I suspect the battery, or the charger itself....?

 

I have been trying to find someone local to me who may have a charger of the same type to see if the battery will charge? I have a shop some distance away who supply other electric bikes and I was thinking of calling in, but the last time I went there they were not very helpful at all......

 

IT DOESN'T REALLY HELP NOT KNOWING THE MANUFACTURER OF THE BIKE.... IF I COULD ONLY FIND A WAY OF SORTING THIS OUT......?

Edited April 8, 201214 yr by chris301up

Hi Chris

 

I would like to help you sound very frustrated where are you in the Uk

 

 

 

Frank

Hi Frank. Frustrated is not all I am..? Anyway, I live in Rowley Regis which is about 4 miles from Birmingham city centre.