Hi Chris you not far from Banbury You are welcome to my workshop for some diagnostics Free

 

I am hear over the holidays

 

Please free to call 01295275998

 

Frank

Thanks for the offer Frank. Will bear it in mind.

 

Just to let you all know I have just connected 3 (tried, tested and working) 12 volt bulbs in series, connected them across the battery power output, and they don't illuminate.

 

Tried the same across the battery charger, and except for a few expected sparks when connecting, again nothing....!

 

I have now removed the displayer unit (which is marked as 36 volts) from the bike and connected that across the charger, and all LED's illuminate, so in my opinion shows that it is a least discharging some voltage, possibly the full 36 volts?

 

I have connected the displayer unit across the battery output, and still nothing, so this is starting to look like where the fault possibly lies?

 

Don't know why the 3 bulbs wired in series won't illuminate though..?

Have just sent a PM

Paul from Halesowen

When you say you connected across the battery, do you mean inside across the actual cells?

 

Did you read my post chris? post 45? tis exact same fault as I had with a fix.

The most likely reason why your charger will not illuminate the bulbs, is because it is not capable of supplying the necessary 4 amps. there should be a label on the charger stating the amps output, probably 2 amps. The sparks show that current is flowing through the bulbs, but not enough to light them. The fault is definitely in the battery cables, the cells, intercell wiring or BMS.

I actually connected the displayer unit across the power wires from the battery.

 

Yes did read Dreamers post - but have left that has a last resort for later today.

 

I have just borrowed my son-in-law's multimeter again and run some basic tests. The battery charger produces between 39.5 & 41 volts but NO AMPERAGE whatsoever. This would account for the inability to light the bulbs wired in series. I would have thought this would have discharged some amperage, even a small amount?

 

It appears the battery is now fully discharged so cannot get any reading from this at all. It certainly now appears that the fault is either the battery or charger?

Edited April 8, 201214 yr by chris301up

Sounds to me like the bms has disconnected the battery due to the low voltage cut out in the BMS disconnecting it to protect it.

You could pull the battery pack apart and see what voltages you can measure? the cells could be fine but the BMS might have gone wrong and disconnected the battery

 

THe other possibility is that no current is flowing from the charger might mean that there is a fault with the bms or the battery and not necessarily the charger. Would perhaps be helpful if you could borrow another charger from someone and try it on your battery. Either that or try connecting your 3 12 volt bulbs in series to the charger with the multimeter and see if the charger puts a current through the bulbs

Tis A fix for mine bud if yours meters out the same as mine then prob be the same fault is all i am saying.

 

Current can only be checked when there is a load drawing some juice of the supply?

 

Think of it as water flow through a pipe if the pipe is blocked no water can flow?

Sure i will be corrected if I am wrong above.

 

Id hook the load ( lights ) direct across the battery positive and negative terminals that takes everything else out the circuit and will check your cells direct(direct onto the battery cells inside not terminals on casing). Then do the same after the battery board. Meter the voltage as you are doing the above and disconnect the battery from the bike. This is to check the battery and battery board only. Trying to narrow down the fault. If that works it is good sign i suppose as it takes the expensive bit out the circuit.

 

Nice to see your not giving up took me a while to get mine going again. hope this helps.

Edited April 8, 201214 yr by Dreamer

WARNING. You must not try to measure the output of a charger by connecting a multimeter directly across the charger with the meter on Amps. By doing this you are effectively short circuiting the charger as your meter will have zero resistance . If you have already done so you will have damaged the charger, or at least blown a fuse .The correct way is to put the meter in series with a load, for example your string of lamps.

I DIDN'T REALISE THIS. We did measure the voltage and amperage across the output connections,so I bet it's knackered now? We live - and possibly learn - then?

Hook it up to the battery and see if the light comes on. You can check at the battery connector where bike plugs in for voltage change.

 

Disconnect battery from bike.

 

Get your meter on to check the voltage at the battery terminals you plug the bike into, then turn on charger as you meter it. If voltage goes up charger is fine.

 

Would be easier if we could put in wee drawings

 

Or as Neptune says hook lights up in series then attach to the charger terminals and see if they light up or glow at least. Mind not to short anything.

Dear All

 

I have been reading through this post and we obviously have a big range of expertise and knowledge.

The problem with this is that jargon is used and instructions that would be clear to a person with equal knowledge but to someone who has not got that knowledge would be confusing.

THIS IS NOT A CRITISM.

As stated in the last post would it not be good to have a basic circuit diagram(s) to refer to.

 

Best of luck Chris, give us a call if you want to.

 

regards

paul

Im trying to keep it as simple as i can. But i understand what your saying looking at some of the posts.

 

A simple draw board ability would make a big difference, nothing complex. Though i suppose it can be done with an external program and added as a pic. Just be handy if it was part of the forum, more people would use it to draw out simple things like cells and meter hook up points etc.

 

Maybe something to suggest in the forum upgrade post, if it is possible to add such a feature.

Hi all. As I have mentioned in my previous posts I have connected the 3 x 12 volt lights (wired in series) across the charger terminals, but nothing. The displayer unit, connected the same, does in fact work.

 

I wish I could get hold of a wiring diagram which would make life a little easier!

 

I have now removed the battery and tried to dismantle it, but the cells appear to be an integral part of the unit, and I cannot remove them. I can only assume the BMS board is buried deep inside the unit?

If you put the ammeter across the battery terminals by mistake earlier I would re-check the battery fuse, you may have blown it. Likewise for the battery charger.

Yeah unfortunately it probably will be i dont know that battery though so i cant say for sure.

 

To be honest maybe you would be best to take Frank up on his kind offer. He could connect a new battery up to it and check it all out with ease.

 

Plus easier to learn when someone is showing you face to face. Learning the hard way can cost money ie charger situation.

 

Please dont take offense, just electronics is a tricky thing at times and its hard to explain fault finding over a forum.

...although unlikely and you may have blown the fuse in the meter as well! The ammeter must be wired in series with the test load. As mentioned previously the charged will not output enough amps to run the three bulbs in series, it may or may not have short circuit protection on the output...if its still outputting the correct volts then you are OK...

Edited April 8, 201214 yr by NRG

Agree with NRG. check if charger is still outputting volts . If not check charger internal fuse . Do not connect lamp load across charger as it will most probably overload it . Check multimeter fuse if fitted.

Edited April 8, 201214 yr by neptune

Hi all. Bingo... I have dismantled the whole lot again.... Reconnected everything off the bike, except for the rear wheel/motor... and it's working! I have no idea why? Will start to reassembly later and see if it still works then?

 

Why me? Why is everything so complicated?

 

Will update you when I know more.

Hi all. Bingo... I have dismantled the whole lot again.... Reconnected everything off the bike, except for the rear wheel/motor... and it's working! I have no idea why? Will start to reassembly later and see if it still works then?

 

Why me? Why is everything so complicated?

 

Will update you when I know more.

 

 

 

Phew......thank god for that.....I've no nails left

 

Top tip.....If it doesnt work when reassembled back into a bike , carefully disconnect all again

and sell on as working parts

 

Seriously, well done (I hope ) and if its any consolation......what do they say.....

 

" lifes a bitch..... and then you die "

 

Lynda

Nice one, fingers crossed.

 

Murphy's law comes to mind.

How many people are trying to think of something funny to say. lol

 

Well done

Hi,

I have a Bearprint ebike which looks very similar to your bike, you may have seen my posts review, etc.

My bike also had an electrical fault which was fixed by a local Freego dealer, my fault was traced to a faulty front wiring loom.

The point is that our bikes all share a generic Chinese heritage including similar parts. Juicybike are also very similar.

I was also able to source a "Silverfish" replacement battery direct from China which I believe would also fit your bike.

It came with a replacement battery connector bottom plate and slide rail and charger.

If it is helpful I can PM the suppliers details to you.

Good luck fixing your bike and please do not give up anything can be overcome as long as it is economic.

Best wishes,

Barry.

Why is everything so complicated?

 

To stop it being boring!

@Chris301up. Pleased things are working. You will need to keep your spirits up, because as it is an intermittent fault, it will likely recur. However next time you will be better equipped to deal with it . Is your charger working OK ? Remember what we said about a multimeter on amps range . You must not connect it to a battery or charger directly , because that is just like sticking a piece of wire across the output. Your meter will blow a fuse , or if it has no fuse, the Magic Smoke will escape and it will never work again. An amp meter must only be connected in series with a power source [battery or charger] and a SUITABLE LOAD.THAT IS A LOAD THAT IS OF SUFFICIENTLY HIGH RESISTANCE that it does not draw more current than the power source is happy to supply and that the meter can handle on the range selected. Ask advice on this forum before doing any current {amp} tests . Remember not to attempt resistance[ohms] tests on a live circuit. I am really happy that you have made progress, and learned something. My only disappointment is that you did not take up my offer and dump it in my garage! A very basic and useful tool in diagnostics is Ohms law. I can explain that , but only if asked.