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Ebikes versus normal bikes for commuting

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  • Author

Hi all,

 

Bringing this thread back reminded me I should give everyone an update after all the helpful advice. I got the Neo Cross just before Christmas and it all seems to be working fine. It's pretty heavy to haul around, but once you're on it it feels really exciting to ride. Lots of oomph and I seem to settle at around 29kph on a clear road (display shows average speed overall of around 21-22km, though I'm not sure how it handles stopping at lights etc.)

 

A couple of questions / issues:

  • Battery recharging: should I do it every day even if I haven't lost any blocks?
  • Seat-post: I'm still waiting for a sprung seatpost from ebikes. Do I need a special one?
  • Punctures: I'd be worried about trying to change either tube, given all the complexities and weight (particularly back wheel). Should I proactively change the tyres to something resistant, and if so what? I've put pressure up to 80 PSI.

 

I have no insight on the regen bit, other than the thingy on the display goes on. :p

 

Otherwise all hunky-dory!

 

Thanks again to all,

 

M

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Charge after every time you go any significant distance.

You need a seat-pin of the right diameter, so you have to measure it or askwhat it is.

It's not that difficult to fix a rear puncture. I've done it many times with a motor like yours. You need to carry a spanner for the wheel- nuts.

Most punctures can be fixed without removing the wheel. Pull the tyre side off of the non-wire side; pull the tube out; find the puncture; fix it.

 

If it's so bad that you need to replace the tube, undo the wheel-nuts and lift the wheel enough to hook the tube off over the end of the axle, hook the new tube on and reassemble. The nut and washer on the wire side normally need to be completely unscrewed from the axle to allow the axle to pass the derailleur fixing before you try to lift the wheel. Learn from my mistakes otherwise it might get jammed which is a bit frustrating. You'll see what I mean when you try it.

 

Most BPM motors have a multi-pin connector about 9" from the motor. If you have one, you can disconnect it and remove the wheel completely. Whatever you have make sure that cable ties near the motor don't prevent you from being able to lift the wheel far enough. You might need some nail-clippers/side-cutters/knife/scissors in your toolkit.

 

I forgot to say: Congratulations on getting your new bike. I'm sure you'll get a lot oof enjoyment from iit. Please keepp us updated on how you get on with it -successes, problems and modifications/updates.

Just watched that. It's exactly as I described apart from there's a single screw that holds the torque arm which you have to remove because it holds the axle in.. There is a multi-pin connector. He cut a cable tie under the bottom bracket to get better access to it. Like Garry, I think it's a lot easier to do upside-down. I can't believe that he got it back in so easily. I think that they're might have been a bit of editing and help. He also pointed out the need to remove the cable side wheelnut and washer completely.
  • Author

Well I managed 16 miles today without keeling over, so I'm making progress!

 

Thanks for all the advice on tyre-changing. Still seems like a bit of a palaver - any tyre recommendations that can reduce the frequency of punctures?

I've sent an e-mail to them to clarify the situation.

 

I've noticed that I get 0.05% regen on my CST motor. This comes during the time between

cutting the throttle and the motor actually stopping, which can be a couple of seconds, so it's wrong to say that the Neos don't have regen, but the amount is so low that it's insignificant. Maybe that's what they mean.

 

So far, no reply to the e-mail - not even an acknowledgement. I think that that''s poor. I've sent them a reminder. Let's see what happens.

Schwalbe do some excellent puncture resistant tyres e.g. Durano Plus. Could also check out some of the reviews on tyres here: Bike Components: Tyres - BikeRadar

I am sure other members could give their opinion on others. Hope this helps.

 

Schwalbe Marathon Plus ... or Continental Top Contact Winter II for times like now ...

  • Author

Thanks all -will look into both.

 

Did 20 miles on Sunday - still not dead. :p

 

Unless I'm boring everyone I'll keep adding the odd update / question to this thread, if that's ok.

Thanks all -will look into both.

 

Did 20 miles on Sunday - still not dead. :p

 

Unless I'm boring everyone I'll keep adding the odd update / question to this thread, if that's ok.

 

1. I use the Schwalbe Marathon + and they are worth every penny. Having less punctures is really worth it. I have also used Schwalbe Big Apple and they were very good as well. In future I would not wait for my first puncture, but change the rear tyre straight away.

2. After 2.5 years of use my findings are like this: I wonder if you'll have the comparable experiences:

a. You get much less sweaty on short to moderate distances. I use a poncho, so that helps too (as compared to a closed suit), but I can travel to a big Supermarket (about 2 miles) load up and cycle back uphill (half a mile of 12%) and I will not have to change. Same after a short commute (4.5 miles). I feel I could do the same distances without an eBike, but I'd be having to get changed and have showers a lot more.

b. Your arrival times become predictable. Nowadays I can go downtown (about 20 minutes and about 80 yards lower than where we live.) and come back up (about 22-24 minutes). In the past: rain and wind made the return trip vay between 26 and 40 minutes.

c. All short shopping trips with moderate loads have been replaced with eBike-trips. A basket in the front and a bag on the back can carry quite a lot.

 

I do not do the distances you do and therefore make do with a cheaper and heavier bike. But the same principles probably hold.

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