Thanks Dave

 

How about this?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BARGAIN-2-X-EXAL-SUPER-LIGHT-SL19-RIMS-559-19-26-MTB-36H-SPOKE-OFFER-NEW-/331241507234?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item4d1f8849a2

 

As I use it for my spare 26 MTB, I do not want to spend future on it

Cheap enough, but eyelets often interfere with spoke angle. They tend to fix 13g nipples at right-angles, so probably only suitable for 1-cross pattern. The spokes he offers are too long unfortunately. I calculate 213 mm for 1-cross and 226mm for 2-cross with those rims, assuming the spoke flange is 120mm - the same as a QSWXK5. Use those rims with 14g spokes and probably 1-cross pattern.

bit more info

 

diameter is 130mm flange width 45 mm

 

mines going in a folding shopper at 37 v on 20" wheels

good for 20 mph l hope ,

I have just fitted a 5 speed shimano block and alli 20x1.75 wheels , folding pedals and straight bars, ground the chainwheel to 3/32 and I am just spraying the battery rack

 

By my calculations 1x spokes 392 dia rim 130 dia hub and 45 mm apart

137 mm spokes

I was thinking of lacing them the same as the currie way with ALL the spokes going in and then they can be laced .

 

I might need to modify a pair of BMX forks to fit the frame to cope with all that power rather than the Polish standard fitment , The originals have been stretched to 100mm without a problem and 10mm lugs but they do seem a bit flimsy as I will need to make up a spacer rather than grind off some of the anti rotate bushes . The forks are 20 years old and have survived so far

The motor supplier sells sun rhino lite rims for about £23. If you also buy their realistically priced spokes they will build the wheel for free.

 

I know they don't have spokes to get my 165mm motor in a 26" rim, but they wrote today asking if they should bill my paypal for a set of spokes as I ordered motor and rim and they thought I would want it building.

 

They will accept wheel bits back again, if you want the free build. I would make very sure they can do it first though, as I'm getting conflicting mails from them. My order is a bit messy... Two rims a £20 deore (no disc) front hub and set of workshop spokes, plus a front hub motor. They don't understand I have different builds on. I think I have told them 5 times now. However, they have been sterling performers in the past. Mail is often answered within minutes, with links to suitable products.

 

edit: I think you only need spend £20 for the free build. We could easily have a built wheel together with nice tyre for under £100 (though 14g spokes, which I'm happy enough with)

 

Edit2: Just a bit of padding.. I just paid £21.57 for 36 custom length spokes to be delivered from justridingalong.com Which have 13g elbows and 14g elsewhere. Sapim Strong's. About 40% stronger than an average Sapim.

Edited September 15, 201411 yr by friendly1uk

My neighbour received my motor late afternoon.

 

Problem is I do not have the waterproof cable that opposite to the connector of the motor.

 

Does anyone know how to source this cable? It looks exactly like the one in the photo from CCR.

 

Not sure the one from BMSB is the same...:S

 

Pat

Edited September 15, 201411 yr by patpatbut

[ATTACH=full]9576[/ATTACH] My neighbour received my motor late afternoon.

 

Problem is I do not have the waterproof cable that opposite to the connector of the motor.

 

Does anyone know how to source this cable? It looks exactly like the one in the photo from CCR.

 

Not sure the one from BMSB is the same...:S

 

Pat

I'm gonna cut it of and use something else. I'll probably solder it to a cable, and connect to the controller dreckly .

DT SWISS 2mm Plain Gauge Spokes S/S Sliver with Nipples 100-169 137mm £13.45 post free

 

from flea bay

 

Wont get anything else done till I get back from my break

 

regards emma

mine has 6 small pins and 3power pins

 

regards Emma

Thanks all re feedback about ku123,d8veh I will try the cut and soldier the shunt bit, will be dead chuffed if mine I sensored!

If you get a sensored one, you can use the 3-speed switch to get a speed boost. When you connect the middle wire to one of the outer wires, it changes the timing to get more speed than is normally possible. The other wire on the connector limits the speed, so you have to find out which is which.

If you get a sensored one, you can use the 3-speed switch to get a speed boost. When you connect the middle wire to one of the outer wires, it changes the timing to get more speed than is normally possible. The other wire on the connector limits the speed, so you have to find out which is which.

Is this hall sensor requirement only relevant with a KU123 controller for three speeds? On my non-sensored SWX I get three distinct speeds with a 3-speed switch.

I use these rims:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-26-MTB-Mountain-Bike-Bicycle-Disc-V-Brake-Rigida-Alloy-Rims-Wheels-/111181184811?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item19e2ea3f2b

 

Thanks Dave

 

How about this?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BARGAIN-2-X-EXAL-SUPER-LIGHT-SL19-RIMS-559-19-26-MTB-36H-SPOKE-OFFER-NEW-/331241507234?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item4d1f8849a2

 

As I use it for my spare 26 MTB, I do not want to spend futune on it

 

I'm gonna cut it of and use something else. I'll probably solder it to a cable, and connect to the controller dreckly .

 

Thanks Mike,

 

Would you mind to take a photo when you cut them?

 

If you could show the wire combination that would be great.

 

Pat

Is this hall sensor requirement only relevant with a KU123 controller for three speeds? On my non-sensored SWX I get three distinct speeds with a 3-speed switch.

 

Some controllers, like the BMSB KU123, 93 and 63, can give a 120% speed by changing the pulse timing. It's normally done by the high position of the three-speed switch. It only works with hall sensors because otherwise the controller can't get the timing. Other controllers use the three-speed switch to cut down the speed, so you get 100%, 80% and 60% or similar.

 

No sign of my motor yet. I checked the tracking number, and it says that it's not left Chain Reactions yet. I was first to order too. Grrrr!.

Thanks Dave

 

How about this?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BARGAIN-2-X-EXAL-SUPER-LIGHT-SL19-RIMS-559-19-26-MTB-36H-SPOKE-OFFER-NEW-/331241507234?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item4d1f8849a2

 

As I use it for my spare 26 MTB, I do not want to spend futune on it

 

 

 

Thanks Mike,

 

Would you mind to take a photo when you cut them?

 

If you could show the wire combination that would be great.

 

Pat

 

Sorry, just read your post 2 mins after heat shrinking it all back together. However, its pretty standard stuff in there:

 

3 phase wires (larger), Blue, Green, Yellow,

3 hall sensor (Smaller) of corresponding colour,

Black, Red (Hall sensor power)

white (Speed sensor probably)

 

I don't intend to use the sensors, so I soldered mine to a piece of 3 core flex:

Blue to Blue

Brown to Green

Earth to Yellow

Edited September 16, 201411 yr by Alan Quay

Some controllers, like the BMSB KU123, 93 and 63, can give a 120% speed by changing the pulse timing. It's normally done by the high position of the three-speed switch. It only works with hall sensors because otherwise the controller can't get the timing. Other controllers use the three-speed switch to cut down the speed, so you get 100%, 80% and 60% or similar.

 

No sign of my motor yet. I checked the tracking number, and it says that it's not left Chain Reactions yet. I was first to order too. Grrrr!.

it may be time to ask what's up, I just got an email saying mine's been dispatched (hypothetically this wheel, a cheap controller, a few 6s and an old bike makes a sub £150 pedelec!)

My one arrived today. It has the same connector as the one in the photo above, which is non-standard and won't fit the normal nine-pin ones that you get from BMSBattery or Shemozzle. I didn't notice it before in that photo. It looks more substantial than the normal nine-pin ones. Unless anybody knows of a source for that matching connection, we have to cut it off and solder all the wires to the normal one - bummer:

http://www.bmsbattery.com/accessory/439-9pin-waterproof-cable-female-connector-for-motor.html

 

On the plus side, my motor's brand new. They said that they've been disassembled them from bikes, but, you always get spoke marks when the wheel is built. Mine is virgin.

 

Another let-down is that it's not disc brake compatible. It can't be modified because the bearings are too big. You'd have to re-drill the disc, open up the inner diameter, and then drill and tap the left side of the motor with 5mm threads. - a lot of messing about.

When I install mine in the wife's bike, I will be left with a spare SWX, 24v. It must be a high winding, cos it'll go at 23 MPH on 26"/36v, but it's pretty low on torque.

 

I'm considering putting it in a 20" wheel, which would bring it down to about 17mph and give it more reasonable torque.

 

I like the look of the Raleigh folder that d8veh did for someone. How did you find it to ride Dave? Was it too small for you?

I can ride any bike. I don't seem to have problems with size like other people get. It was OK, but it only has a lower steering head bearing. The top one is a nylon bush that was a bit worn, so the steering was a bit like riding a bike with loose head bearings. Also, the side-pull caliper brakes were no good for my 100kg. They had the old black rubber brake blocks in. I think I have to advise anybody that wants to do a conversion to get a donor with disc brakes. It's not worth messing about with rim brakes unless you have something exotic.

I can ride any bike. I don't seem to have problems with size like other people get. It was OK, but it only has a lower steering head bearing. The top one is a nylon bush that was a bit worn, so the steering was a bit like riding a bike with loose head bearings. Also, the side-pull caliper brakes were no good for my 100kg. They had the old black rubber brake blocks in. I think I have to advise anybody that wants to do a conversion to get a donor with disc brakes. It's not worth messing about with rim brakes unless you have something exotic.

 

Thanks, I had completely forgotten about side pull calipers, and how bloody terrible they were.

Hi Folks

 

The Folding shopper I am in the process of building/converting has calliper brakes and will need to have a decent pair of brake calipers and brake blocks to make braking safer , Both wheels are now 36h alli rimmed rather than the old 28h steel rims ( the wheels came via my local tip and it was a shame to see them being dumped a £5 note and the whole 20" mtb was mine wheels to this project and rear triangle went to the trike .)

 

With a bit of talent and some 40x3 mm bar stock and a grinder its easy to manufacture some disc brake mounts for the front and rear dropouts that will bolt to the wheel retaining bolt and mudguard eye on the front and rear , This is the method I use for fitting disc brakes on the rear of my home built trikes.

 

 

Anything is possible with a little thought .

160mm front and 140 mm rear is the ideal combination on these smaller wheel bikes or you will need to slice and reweld the disc brake side chain stay to get enough clearance for a 160 mm rear disc ( I did this on the q100 upgrade on the e-trike ) and have less than 1mm clearance on the outside of the disc rotor to chain stay .

On my latest trike a 140mm disc fitted happily without any wickedness being carried out with a cutting disc and a mig welder. in a 20" mtb triangle .

 

BTW these hubs wont fit in a BMX fork without SERIOUS modification and repositioning the front wheel drop outs after stretching open the front forks

I found out when I was going to true up the wheel tonight in a pair of front forks as my spokes arrived today and I have just built the wheel .

 

regards emma.

Edited September 17, 201411 yr by twinkle

Tried to edit the last post and upload a photo but the silly text editor wont allow you to add a photo

so here is the photo via postimage

http://s11.postimg.org/e8bui0mar/rear_disc.jpg

upload pictures online

 

The mounting bracket is a piece of 40x3mm mild steel that fits to both mudguard eyes and the caliper attaches happily to the frame

 

regards emma

Hi Folks

 

The Folding shopper I am in the process of building/converting has calliper brakes and will need to have a decent pair of brake calipers and brake blocks to make braking safer , Both wheels are now 36h alli rimmed rather than the old 28h steel rims ( the wheels came via my local tip and it was a shame to see them being dumped a £5 note and the whole 20" mtb was mine wheels to this project and rear triangle went to the trike .)

 

With a bit of talent and some 40x3 mm bar stock and a grinder its easy to manufacture some disc brake mounts for the front and rear dropouts that will bolt to the wheel retaining bolt and mudguard eye on the front and rear , This is the method I use for fitting disc brakes on the rear of my home built trikes.

 

 

Anything is possible with a little thought .

160mm front and 140 mm rear is the ideal combination on these smaller wheel bikes or you will need to slice and reweld the disc brake side chain stay to get enough clearance for a 160 mm rear disc ( I did this on the q100 upgrade on the e-trike ) and have less than 1mm clearance on the outside of the disc rotor to chain stay .

On my latest trike a 140mm disc fitted happily without any wickedness being carried out with a cutting disc and a mig welder. in a 20" mtb triangle .

 

BTW these hubs wont fit in a BMX fork without SERIOUS modification and repositioning the front wheel drop outs after stretching open the front forks

I found out when I was going to true up the wheel tonight in a pair of front forks as my spokes arrived today and I have just built the wheel .

 

regards emma.

I'm converting an old Raleigh folder and would be really grateful if you could show a PIC of the disc brake mount ( I have the same problem with old Raleigh brakes),do you feel its secure?

I'm converting an old Raleigh folder and would be really grateful if you could show a PIC of the disc brake mount ( I have the same problem with old Raleigh brakes),do you feel its secure?

Sorry,just saw above!

If you get a sensored one, you can use the 3-speed switch to get a speed boost. When you connect the middle wire to one of the outer wires, it changes the timing to get more speed than is normally possible. The other wire on the connector limits the speed, so you have to find out which is which.

Many thanks for this Dave,sorry I only reply now,its because I am not at stage of build where I can try to do this yet

hi there

l am away for a week so only using the phone .

you can blow up the photo of the rear end of the trike . Basically a flat 3mm plate . It could be made permanent with a bit of weld . It depends how far you want to go . Welding the plates would be the best idea but you will need to repair the paint work.

regards Emma

hi there

l am away for a week so only using the phone .

you can blow up the photo of the rear end of the trike . Basically a flat 3mm plate . It could be made permanent with a bit of weld . It depends how far you want to go . Welding the plates would be the best idea but you will need to repair the paint work.

regards Emma

Many thanks,I shall give it a go (only time I've ever felt grateful for heavy heavy gauge metal on Raleigh folders!)

Some controllers, like the BMSB KU123, 93 and 63, can give a 120% speed by changing the pulse timing. It's normally done by the high position of the three-speed switch. It only works with hall sensors because otherwise the controller can't get the timing. Other controllers use the three-speed switch to cut down the speed, so you get 100%, 80% and 60% or similar.

Thanks for the explanation Dave. I know it's a little off-topic, but have you used this approach to reach 30mph with a BPM-CST laced into a 26-inch wheel, powered with 12S lipo? I've think I've decided on this setup for my next build, but have been concerned that I'd miss those few extra mph. Are there any negatives to modified pulse timing, ie. reduced torque or range, noise etc?