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Overclockers Dream

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I guess a few people have thought about over-clocking a light-weight motor, but have been a bit worried about the expense of replacing parts if it goes wrong. Maybe if the motor was fairly robust and only costs £35, a few more might want to have a go.

 

Here's your big chance. These motors are fairly safe at 900w if you don't make them struggle up hills. They're 24v, so should crack 30mph with 12S lipos at 18 to 20 amps.

 

It doesn't say whether they're sensored or sensorless. I would guess sensored, in which case they'd go pretty well with one of those BMSBattery 36v batteries with the included 20A sinewave controllers.

 

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/8fun-electric-front-hub-qswxb/rp-prod117368

 

Edit: I've just seen in one of the photos a 3-pin connector, so they're sensorless, which rules out sinewave controller.

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Wonder if |I could fix one on my cheapie chinese scooter wheel.

Gonna order one and see what \i can sort.

If not it will be my first lesson in bike wheel building and can go on the lads Raliegh MTB

Just had a thought!!!

I could put one on the front of my cyclamatic to make it a 2 wheel drive.

Will decide in the morning when I sober up!

Just had a thought!!!

I could put one on the front of my cyclamatic to make it a 2 wheel drive.

Will decide in the morning when I sober up!

Sounds like a plan.

Two less. I got one too. You have to thank Friendly1uk, who pointed them out to me in an Ebay message.

Let's say it does the normal 18mph in a 26" wheel at 24v.

 

In a 20" wheel at 36v, it would do 18 x 20/26 x 36/24 mph = 20.7 mph.

 

Until I test one, that's just a guess. They could have been removed from 20" wheels!

The one in their photo has a green sticker with 700c on it, suggesting they're from a 28” wheel. If the photo is correct and they're all the same they should be good for a 20” wheel at 36v.
Well spotted, but that could mean that they're 180 rpm, which would mean 17mph max. We'll just have to wait!

oh well 14s pack here we come at 5ah . Plenty of torque as well if under run (smaller wheel )

 

regards Emma

Two less. I got one too. You have to thank Friendly1uk, who pointed them out to me in an Ebay message.

I also got one. Moments after you said your were going to tell this lot lol

 

I would of shared really peeps, it just might not of been today :)

 

It's ideal, as I have a 12s ku65 bpm bike about to be upgraded. Freeing up everything except the motor. One of my mates will get a real cheap bike out of this offer :)

 

Moving from 12s free's up a bms I never got round to using. It's a double layer one. Just 50x60mm and maybe 20mm tall. I was going to pop it in a 2x3 tube with a few 4s 5Ah hk packs. Like a battery baton that could go under the bottom tube. If anyone would like to pick up on that idea, I will hold out on my 'for sale' advert. Screwfix sell a nice 55mmx105mm plastic ducting for a couple of quid that might wet someones appetite.

I guess a few people have thought about over-clocking a light-weight motor, but have been a bit worried about the expense of replacing parts if it goes wrong. Maybe if the motor was fairly robust and only costs £35, a few more might want to have a go.

 

Here's your big chance. These motors are fairly safe at 900w if you don't make them struggle up hills. They're 24v, so should crack 30mph with 12S lipos at 18 to 20 amps.

 

It doesn't say whether they're sensored or sensorless. I would guess sensored, in which case they'd go pretty well with one of those BMSBattery 36v batteries with the included 20A sinewave controllers.

 

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/8fun-electric-front-hub-qswxb/rp-prod117368

 

Edit: I've just seen in one of the photos a 3-pin connector, so they're sensorless, which rules out sinewave controller.

 

Mine just turned up - It 5 has additional smaller pins in the connector - So I guess its is a sensored one.....

thanks Mike. Mine will turn up tomorrow.

 

I will use it on my spare 26 MTB on 36v and that should give me around 17mph

I'm jealous. I ordered mine first and it still hasn't come. Grrrrr!
mine has 6 small pins and 3power pins

 

regards Emma

 

 

Oh, so's mine - one day I hope to learn to count properly.

thanks Mike. Mine will turn up tomorrow.

 

I will use it on my spare 26 MTB on 36v and that should give me around 17mph

 

I plan to spin it into a 26 in rim, and put it onto my wifes bike at 36v. Her current motor tops out around 23mph. This will be slower and give more torque which will be more suitable for her.

 

I'll probably pair it with a KU65 that I accidentally spilled some solder on ;-)

I plan to spin it into a 26 in rim, and put it onto my wifes bike at 36v. Her current motor tops out around 23mph. This will be slower and give more torque which will be more suitable for her.

 

I'll probably pair it with a KU65 that I accidentally spilled some solder on ;-)

23mph with load? That is fast!

 

I also use standard KU65 for my 26MTB. However, I need to source a rim to build it on. Any nice and cheap 26 rim you know? :p

 

Pat

I plan to spin it into a 26 in rim, and put it onto my wifes bike at 36v. Her current motor tops out around 23mph. This will be slower and give more torque which will be more suitable for her.

 

I'll probably pair it with a KU65 that I accidentally spilled some solder on ;-)

I got one too, is it daft to ask whether it will work with a ku123?

I

I got one too, is it daft to ask whether it will work with a ku123?

i plan to shoehorn it into a pre-war sunbeam, no less

I got one too, is it daft to ask whether it will work with a ku123?

The most they'll safely handle is 20 to 22 amps at 36v and about 18 amps at 48v, i.e. about 900 watts from the battery, as long as you don't go too slow up steep hills for too long. Running at constant high speed is not a problem for them. You could of course experiment with oil cooling to go for higher power.

 

The KU123 is too high at 30 amps. You could cut one of the shunts, which would send it down to 15A, and then add a bit of solder to the remaining one to increase it a bit, or you could file/crimp notches in both of the shunts to cut the current down. Don't do that without a wattmeter to check the results.

I got one too, is it daft to ask whether it will work with a ku123?

Its not daft to ask, but my guess is that's a bit too far, as it will go to 30A

 

I'm going with a shunt modded ku65, running around 18A, but I'm probably being conservative.

 

D8veh said earlier in the thread that he's heard others go to 900w, which is 25A.

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