anyone know good and cheap freewheel to use with this clark chain?

If you don't have the tool maybe take your wheel to a local bike shop they will have it changed in minutes. Saves you buying the tool.

I've spent 1 hour trying to remove the freewheel and it didn't take out. I used big wrench + hammer then big wrench + leverage (all my body on the wrench and jumping on it) and it was still well fixed on it.

 

I'm thinking that maybe it's time for me to use cassette... at least I'd be able to remove it quickly. Does it worth changing it? And how is the maintenance with cassette and will it be cheaper over time? I'm expecting worn cassette quickly too

I bought a freewheel removal tool off ebay for £2 delivered. It helps if you grip the tool in a vice if you have one, and turn the wheel. Freewheels get tight. Failing that LBS. If you take just the wheel, they will probably do it for nowt if you buy a new freewheel.

There is this method to try

I bought a freewheel removal tool off ebay for £2 delivered. It helps if you grip the tool in a vice if you have one, and turn the wheel. Freewheels get tight. Failing that LBS. If you take just the wheel, they will probably do it for nowt if you buy a new freewheel.

 

I may pop to a shop but I never had good experience with them. And its also super expensive, i may rather buy a new wheel instead

There is this method to try

 

I tried this method with wheel against wall.

 

And I was standing and jumping on the bar!!! Not working

A steel housing screwed into an aluminium hub, using a fine thread, and tightened by repeated application of the cyclists weight on the pedals, together with torque from a powerful electric motor, in wet and possiblly salty conditions...

Probably seized up and the threads corroded beyond use anyway.

However, there is a trick you could try... Put your wheel, soaked in penetrating fluid, in the freezer as cold as it goes, leave until thoroughly frozen.

Then take it out , get it in position, and pour boiling water over the hub, but not the freewheel. Apply torque to the removal tool and pray it lets go!

Next time use waterproof grease like 'Coppaslip' on the threads before assembly.

Likewise you can put new cogs on an old, good freewheel body from the same shmanufacturer, by using a chainwhip on the unscrewable locking cog (small one) and another in opposition on the next, fixed, splined cog. Put back the shims and spacers as found or cogs will not align with derailleur indexing.

Good luck, admire your "get on with it regardless" attitude.

I think I'm just going to swap this wheel with my other bike that has cassette but no BBS02

 

 

 

The cassette look super rusty, can I keep it as is? Or clean it with something?

 

It has a lockring

 

And if I buy this cassette from Amazon, it would work well with my BBS02? And no need to buy any adaptor?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00518SHQA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

I would just clean the cassette spline with some wirewool and wd40 and maybe lube the bearings etc too. I think I would get/use a cassette with the same number of speeds as the original freewheel had.

The method i have used for stuck free wheels is to put freewheel tool in , then holding tool in place put in bench vice tighten up then both hands on wheel and turn workes 9 out of 10 times , failing that i use a crack bar

For removing seized parts after leaving penetrating oil on for a while is to not yank the pressure on but put the pressure on slowly and on as much as you can and hold it there as long as you can, generally the seize kind of cracks/gives.

Clean the spline lightly with wirwool and oil, wipe off and apply a little brake grease( coppaslip).

Thanks all.

 

I've now changed to a new cassette and chain. It all almost work fine.

 

The front chain sometime fell off while riding. It happens most of the time when I change gears.

 

Would that be because the chain isn't properly tensioned?

Or maybe i need some front chain alignment guide?

Thanks all.

 

I've now changed to a new cassette and chain. It all almost work fine.

 

The front chain sometime fell off while riding. It happens most of the time when I change gears.

 

Would that be because the chain isn't properly tensioned?

Or maybe i need some front chain alignment guide?

Falls off the front cogs or rear cassette? If it's rear cassette then the derailleur stops need adjusting. Also count the number of links in the old chain and check the new chain has the same.

Is it falling off when in the lower gears?

Probably a guide is need as the BBSxx sits further out than normal causing a bit to much angle, if your original front deaileur can reach out far enough you coud just use that or any other chain guide.

It fell off the front. Not the rear.

 

What type of guide shall i buy?

If you check out the endless sphere thread there are several discussed.

can't find a relevant one.

 

shall i get this one?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Problem-Solver-Bike-Chain-Jump-Stop-Chain-guide-/111451032863?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item19f2ffcd1f

You need to make sure that whatever you buy will adjust out far enough due to thew extra offset, some thing like this? http://www.origin8.bike/product-description/?prod_model_uid=7181

You could make something to do the job easily enough, all it needs to do is prevent the chain moving to far inward, one of the ES boys just screwed a chunk of wood to the BB area

A bit of metal bent to shape and mounted on the down tube should be pretty straight forward although not as pretty as the origin8 one.

Might even be worth a look at your LBS as it's not that rare a part.

I just used my front derailleur at first(saved having to split the chain) then when I replaced the chain I left the guide off and my chain has never fallen off even when going over really rough trails.

i still have my front derailleur. I'll install it as soon as I have time and report it back