That was a bargain. You even got the pedal sensor to fit. You just need some mudguards to finish it off. I can recommend SKS Beavertails at about £14 a pair. They're dead easy to fit because they don't have stays.

Thanks, I've been looking at mudguards and at SKS in particular, haven't seen the Beavertails, so I'll look them up

Thanks, I've been looking at mudguards and at SKS in particular, haven't seen the Beavertails, so I'll look them up

....and ordered so hopefully I will avoid the dreaded brown stripe of shame from now on!

Dear all, I have a curious nonelectric problem - the rim tape/rubber on the oxydrive rim is not designed for the 10 atmospheres pressure of the 700c 23 tyres - it causes punctures around the inner spoke holes - I replaced it with another rubber rim tape with more punctures. Does anyone know what else I could try? Many thanks

dear all, a quick follow up, wiggle sells velox tape (very good IMHO) on sale at the moment

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/velox-rim-tape/

it cured the problem of 10 bar inner tubes and large internal spoke holes, and as any fellow virgo will know, it's deeply satisfying to fix stuff properly

Are you seriously running 146psi?

 

I know you've converted a road bike and have narrow tyres, but that seems an awful lot.

 

Is there a pressure range stamped on the tyre sidewall?

Are you seriously running 146psi?

 

I know you've converted a road bike and have narrow tyres, but that seems an awful lot.

 

Is there a pressure range stamped on the tyre sidewall?

i use these

https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/schwalbe-durano-s-road-tire

145 PSI - it's absolutely great if one can dodge potholes

i use these

https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/schwalbe-durano-s-road-tire

145 PSI - it's absolutely great if one can dodge potholes

 

Schwalbe say 145 psi so there can be no argument with that.

 

I've no experience of a roadie ebike, no doubt it's a different style of riding.

 

Can't help thinking it must be very harsh, but if you want speed it will be the way to go.

Schwalbe say 145 psi so there can be no argument with that.

 

I've no experience of a roadie ebike, no doubt it's a different style of riding.

 

Can't help thinking it must be very harsh, but if you want speed it will be the way to go.

yes, the truth is that i only did it because it's what i had (if i had a dual suspension 29er on nice fat big apples, i'd most certainly have gone for it instead!), it's not ideal ito english roads and potholes and racing bikes dont usually have disc brakes (which i also find very preferable)

Schwalbe say 145 psi so there can be no argument with that.

 

I've no experience of a roadie ebike, no doubt it's a different style of riding.

 

Can't help thinking it must be very harsh, but if you want speed it will be the way to go.

Actually recent thinking is that wider tyres can be quicker. That's a bit of a generalisation but they do appear to have lower rolling resistance, all other things being equal. Here is Schwalbe's answer as to why wider tyres roll better than narrow ones, and here's the testing from Bicycle Quarterly. I'm just converting a flat bar road bike at the moment which already comes with 35mm slicks but I'll probably take them off and put on a set of 40mm Vittoria Hyper ultra-fast touring tyres for a bit more comfort and puncture protection on the commute.

 

Michael

EDIT: The above does not of course translate to knobblies!

Actually recent thinking is that wider tyres can be quicker. That's a bit of a generalisation but they do appear to have lower rolling resistance, all other things being equal. Here is Schwalbe's answer as to why wider tyres roll better than narrow ones, and here's the testing from Bicycle Quarterly. I'm just converting a flat bar road bike at the moment which already comes with 35mm slicks but I'll probably take them off and put on a set of 40mm Vittoria Hyper ultra-fast touring tyres for a bit more comfort and puncture protection on the commute.

 

Michael

EDIT: The above does not of course translate to knobblies!

 

Yes, I have seen the info from Schwalbe, although I expect a lot of people refuse to believe it.

 

In the same way many cyclists think a shallow tread deflects water.

 

It doesn't, a bicycle cannot aquaplane so a slick tyre offers marginally more grip on a wet road than a treaded one, because there is more tyre compound in contact with the road.

 

What the the tread will do is offer grip on loose top surfaces, such as cinder tracks.

Hi all,

 

I've finally started my conversion.

 

However, I seem to have run into a small problem.

 

I have the cassette removal tool and the chain whip. But I can't use them to tighten the cassette on the motor wheel.

(See attached images)

I could try with a wrench, but im not too sure about it.

I'm also not sure how I could remove it in the future if required.

 

Any ideas?

with my CST motor (not an oxydrive kit, but the same), I removed the cassette and the nut on the axle. I then assembled the cassette. I put a couple of washers on the axle, just enough to lift the nut above the cassette, which gives enough to get a spanner on to nip it up and give clearance between the frame and the cassette. Then put the anti-rotation washer the other way up outboard of the drop-out.

Is the problem your removal tool has a pointy thing in the middle stopping it going on? Mine just has a hole like this one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILVERLINE-CASSETTE-REMOVAL-TOOL-SLIM-BODY-SHIMANO-SUNRACE-SACHS-GUARANTEED-NEW-/291108455803?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Cycling_BikeLocks_SR&hash=item43c76a857b

also as d8veh says, you also need to remove the anti rotation washer and any under it too for cassette removal/replacing.

Thanks d8veh and awol!

I've managed to solve the issue. The conversion is going great so far.

I wish the instruction manual was a little more detailed though.

I'm having some issues with the front derailleur. But I think I just need to do some adjustment.

One potentially important problem is that, my bike comes with hydraulic disc brakes. I'm not supposed to install the levers that come with the kit right?

Does this mean that the brake lever cable coming out from the lcd screen wouldn't be connected to anything?

 

I've also ordered the lights recommended by d8veh in the Lights again thread. (thanks again d8veh!)

Need to figure out how to connect it to the battery though.

If you have hydraulic brakes, you can't use the levers that come with the kit. You'd have to do some DIY to convert to your levers.

I dismantled the lever and used the reed switch/ sensor on my rear brake plus a magnet and voila job done. I briefly mention it on p12 of this thread.

I dismantled the lever and used the reed switch/ sensor on my rear brake plus a magnet and voila job done. I briefly mention it on p12 of this thread.

Got any pic's Nealh?

I am considering a go at this idea soon.

It's not legal with 350w marked on the motor, which clearly isn't a 250w one!

 

I suspect that they got a sample bike approved with a motor not marked 350w, then their Chinese friends got a bit mixed up - as is their wont. I've seen this mistake a couple of times before.

 

You can not downgrade a motor?

Does that mean this bike is not legal?

This Big bear ebike is marked 350W

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/electric-bike-reviews/group-review-woosh-big-bear-ls/

 

If it came to a dispute, Woosh could send you a letter to confirm that it's a 250w motor. If it were mine, I'd just stick a bit of sticky-backed aluminium tape over the marking to avoid difficult questions. I made a load of labels for such occasions, but I can't find them just now. If I do, I'll send you one.

As promised, some pics of the conversion.

That looks very nice. I expect it's pretty fast too,

Thanks D8veh!

Ive only done around 35 miles on it so far.

Most of it on speed setting 2 and 3.

I wanted to average around 15-17 mph.

But yes its pretty quick.

Its still missing the brake cut off switch. I haven't figured out how to incorporate it yet.

Hence why I'm taking it easy.

Just in case you don't know because it is a bit different to other bikes, there's 3 power levels (eco, normal and sport) which govern current to the motor, and six speed levels that limit the maximum speed, making 18 speed/power combinations. The throttle is also limited by the six speed settings. To test the maximum speed, you have to have level 6 sport with the speed set as high as possible in the advanced setting.

New Oxydrive conversion: help please with this maintenance code:

 

Just converted my wife's bike, my second Oxydrive conversion. All has gone well, and on first testing seems ok. However on switching on, the LCD goes through its normal first two screens, then sticks on this one with the maintenance code 09 being displayed Any ideas please.

error 9: communication error.

The Tx or Rx wires may be shorted together, to ground or to the 5V rail.

http://www.bigstone-nj.com/products/lcd-display/c300-0

Many thanks. I looked at the link and couldn't see anything on error codes etc. Which connector has Tx and Rx in it?