Since I got my Haibike back in May I noticed how wide the handlebars were compared to my other bikes.

I had also had trouble getting the bike on to certain trails which had the metal "anti motorbike" style entrance having to almost dance the bike through them at a jaunty angle.

 

After trying out some different hand positions on the bars and moving the brakes etc. I have been able to find a much better riding position and hand width on the bars.

 

My standard MTB has a bar width of 50.6cm just within my shoulders and always felt a little narrow.

My A2B Metro has a bar width of 60.7cm and handles and rides like a dream - even off road to its limit!

I decided to trim 3cm off each end of the Haibike bar to a total length of 60.6cm which is perfect for my shoulder width leaving my hands just outside my shoulder when riding the bike.

 

Riding on the road with the new bar width puts you in a more natural position and has made the long rides a little more comfortable.

The bike also seams much easier to ride off road - and fits through the "anti motorbike" styles! - it makes me feel as though I am right in the middle of the riding experience and not having to hold a balancing beam which is what the ride felt like before. My arms are not as stretched which means I am not leaning forward as much and does make a subtle difference in the ride.

 

Has anyone else tried shortening their bar width and found a difference in how their bike rides - I am very pleased (and relieved) with what such a small change has made.

I find my Haibike's' handlebars are to wide and will shorten them to width of the Delite. But not until the warranty is up.

 

Having a mirror stuck on the end doesn't help any. I used to be able to do a zig-zag through the styles but these days it's getting difficult.

 

The Birdy, being a folder has very narrow narrow bars, but find it fine after a while to get used to it.

 

I can't say I find either of them preferable when riding, just the manoeuvring the man made obstacles.

i need to take some of mine as it will not even fit through our front door there so wide.

I've just gone up in size from 700mm to 725mm and also gone from flat to 35mm rise. I still need to shorten the stem by roughly 50mm, but tension in my neck and shoulders has now gone, and the bike feels better on descents. I was concerned that the front would become light on climbs, but today's 5,000ft continious climb, some of which was 50 percent gradient of loose stone, proved otherwise.

Has anyone else tried shortening their bar width and found a difference in how their bike rides - I am very pleased (and relieved) with what such a small change has made.

 

Mine on a hybrid are a standard 600mm width, I added Ergon GP3s at the start which added about 20-25mm each side (estimate). I have taken 30mm off each side with a hacksaw and the overall width is now 590mm.

 

That is my hands are about 50-60mm closer together ie 10%. I'd like to take another 10mm off each side before long.

 

It feels nippier and a touch more urgent, which is good, and still fine on the 30mph downhills. Small adjustments make a big difference.

 

Round here most of the anti-cycling gates are 60mm at handlebar height so combined with hand protector horns on the GP3s and the curve of the ironwork, I should be able to judder through at slow speed once I get the nerve .

 

Ferdinand

I had also had trouble getting the bike on to certain trails which had the metal "anti motorbike" style entrance having to almost dance the bike through them at a jaunty angle.

 

If that is an A-Gate or K-Gate, they can be dealt with with a little persistence since they are illegal under Equalities Legislation.

 

http://www.kbarriers.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/a_frame_barrier/ed-3-bowden-housteads-ed-for-ds-p1000416_0.jpg

 

One way is to demonstrate that somebody in a large (8mph / Type III) mobility scooter wants to use the trail (is it advertised as open to everyone?) and cannot get through.

 

They have the same access rights as a pedestrian.

 

You could equally do it with a family with a trailer bike or trike, but the Disabled Access will need less explanation.

 

The strange thing is that these barriers do not stop motorbikes, which can have narrow handlebars. If there alternate ways in then point it out.

 

The authority for complaint will prob. be the unitary or County Council.

 

They need to leave a 1-1.2m gap ideally, and those scooters can be 0.85m wide.

 

I'm trying to work up a toolkit and tackle 50 of these, but it is easier to use particular cases.

 

Some case studies where people have succeeded:

http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=98313

 

More info:

http://disabledramblers.co.uk/access-issues/

 

Ferdinand

Has anyone else tried shortening their bar width and found a difference in how their bike rides - I am very pleased (and relieved) with what such a small change has made.

 

The opposite on an e-folder since it's bars were too narrow for good control, longer made it far better.

 

Bar width does need to be right for both the purpose and the individual for the best riding experience.

.

The bars on my Cube flat-bar were 660mm - I've shortened them to 595 and it's much better. Still not as narrow as the 440mm on my old drop-bar road bike (which was great at filtering through stationary traffic).

 

Michael

Mountain bikes - particularly downhillers - have wide bars for steering leverage.

 

Fashion comes into it - seems to me bars have become wider in recent years.

 

The shop chopped about an inch off either end of the bars on my Cannondale.

 

It's something they do quite regularly for customers.

 

I rode Croxden's Haibike and would chop the bars if it were mine.

 

Nothing to do with the warranty, so I would advise Croxden to go ahead sooner rather than later.

Ferdinand - that is the type of entry barriers I have trouble getting through. They have a stainless steel side that is about 60 cm or so running around the frame at handlebar height making it very difficult to navigate your bicycle through the gap.

 

To find the right width for my handlebars I found that laying a tape measure along the floor then getting into position to do push-ups with your left hand in the 1 - 10 cm range on the tape; your right hand will automatically go to the correct width for maximum power on a push up.

The brain knows what is best when it comes to effort, strength and co-ordination - try doing a push-up with your hands too far apart - difficult to say the least if you try a few at a time.

This width should also be the right measurement for maximum control of your handlebars as geometrically it should be correct for best control of the bar - hence mine being 60.6cm.

Has anybody tried a hydraulic jack to adjust the width? Perhaps if they were all adjusted, someone might get the hint.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dcg412n-xr-5-angle-grinder-18v-bare/34861?kpid=34861&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&kpid=34861&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%20-%20Power%20Tools-_-Shopping%20-%20Power%20Tools&gclid=CP-XwZeI2cYCFeHMtAodkB8FSA

Ferdinand - that is the type of entry barriers I have trouble getting through. They have a stainless steel side that is about 60 cm or so running around the frame at handlebar height making it very difficult to navigate your bicycle through the gap.

 

So go get 'em cowboy!

 

There are people taking these excresences out in various places, and I linked to everything you need.

 

I'm working on some that prevent people on mobility scooters get to our local Dr and the child's playground without going round the long way on the roads/pavements.

 

[uSER=4366]@d8veh[/uSER]

 

I think they tend to have horizontal bracings as above, so the real battle we need to win is for accessible paths.

 

Given that current best practice is for min 1m gaps or wider with bollards at least 1m apart we need to get that imposed on the existing, of which there are literally scores of thousands.

 

I think this one matters because it is exactly the kind of petty restriction that makes cycling slightly too awkward for casual users,and they are the people we need in 100s of thousands.

 

I know of about 100-200 of these and other gates within 4-5 miles of my home.

 

Ferdinand

I've fitted a shorter stem (Thomson 4x) and slightly wider bars to my haibike (Renthal fatbar) which are 780mm wide.

 

I get off, put the bike on the rear wheel and turn the bars to get through those.

 

I think it largely depends on the type of riding you do as my xc bike has 570mm flat bar and feels natural on that bike.

Anyone using a handlebar mount for accessories?

Are they any good and if so which would you recommend.

 

I want to fit my new lights in front of the Bosch display that resides in the centre of the bar.

I use one of these accessory bars. Carbon fibre, mounts either end, and about 150mm long. Also forms a single handle for pulling the bike.

 

From the USA but reasonably priced and reasonably quick.

 

http://www.avt.bike/WebStore/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Cbn-Accessory-Mount-Wide

 

Ferdinand

On the subject of A-Frame Barriers.

 

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/topeak/bar-x-tender-ec007790

I use one of these for my LCD and fitted it so that it faces rearward of my head set and nicely declutters my h/bars, nice and versatile as you can rotate it 90 degrees to fit vertically or a horizontally.

I use one of these accessory bars. Carbon fibre, mounts either end, and about 150mm long. Also forms a single handle for pulling the bike.

 

From the USA but reasonably priced and reasonably quick.

 

http://www.avt.bike/WebStore/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Cbn-Accessory-Mount-Wide

 

Ferdinand

Looks something like what I need - thanks for the reply

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/topeak/bar-x-tender-ec007790

I use one of these for my LCD and fitted it so that it faces rearward of my head set and nicely declutters my h/bars, nice and versatile as you can rotate it 90 degrees to fit vertically or a horizontally.

 

Now that also looks to be something I could try - how much flexibility is there with regard to angles - can you adjust and lock at any angle?

Now that also looks to be something I could try - how much flexibility is there with regard to angles - can you adjust and lock at any angle?

 

Simply put yes.