December 20, 201510 yr What's the axle diameter of your crystalyte? My leaf motor is 14mm This is what confuses me. The technical diagram here says it is M14 (14mm): http://www.crystalyte.com/Crystalyte%20HS_HT35%20rear%20motor%20drawing.pdf Yet, my digital calipers tell me that it is 12mm. So I ordered the M12 Nord-Locks. I can't give you a definitive answer concerning your motor axle, but considering the custom frame building you are getting involved in, a set of digital calipers would probably be a good £10 investment.
December 20, 201510 yr Here you go. NL14 at £1.92 a pop: http://www.ondrives.com/nl14 Let us know how much p&p is.
December 20, 201510 yr Author This is what confuses me. The technical diagram here says it is M14 (14mm): http://www.crystalyte.com/Crystalyte HS_HT35 rear motor drawing.pdf Yet, my digital calipers tell me that it is 12mm. So I ordered the M12 Nord-Locks. I can't give you a definitive answer concerning your motor axle, but considering the custom frame building you are getting involved in, a set of digital calipers would probably be a good £10 investment. Just checked with my caliper. My axle is about 10.5mm on the flat side and 13.5mm on the threaded side. So definitely a M14 is needed
February 7, 201610 yr Author I bought these nord lock M14 and these stick by pack of 2. What I've noticed is that once I remove the nut its a bit harder to remove but once removed the washed becomes 2 washers... Anyway it doesn't work very well: I tried to put medium strength loctite instead... and it doesn't work either... i think it may be because i use regen.... Any clue what best for next? shall I buy high strength loctite? Maybe super glue the nut?
February 7, 201610 yr Any clue what best for next? With plenty of thread there, put on a second nut and using two spanners, lock the outer one very tight against the inner one. That should stop the inner one undoing. Double nutting like that is one of the most secure methods there is. .
February 7, 201610 yr 'If one won't do, use two' is a useful maxim. It can be applied to batteries, jackets, gloves, hats and no doubt lots of other things. I first heard the phrase in relation to the railways, where it's routine to deploy a second locomotive to pull a heavy train up a gradient. There is a bridge on the C2C path in County Durham which is double width. It's a former railway line, and the bridge is where the second loco was parked to haul the train up to Consett.
February 7, 201610 yr I bought these nord lock M14 and these stick by pack of 2. What I've noticed is that once I remove the nut its a bit harder to remove but once removed the washed becomes 2 washers... Anyway it doesn't work very well: I tried to put medium strength loctite instead... and it doesn't work either... i think it may be because i use regen.... Any clue what best for next? shall I buy high strength loctite? Maybe super glue the nut? The Nord Lock washers are split into two parts. They are meant to separate like that as movement between the parts allows the cams to push the halves apart and create torque. I'm running regen on a 60A controller and they do a great job at keeping my nuts tight. I'm really not sure why you are experiencing so much movement of your motor axle. Have you inspected your dropouts to see if there is any serious deformation present? Have you tried applying a slither of grease in between the two Nord Lock halves before re-tightening them? That should help movement between the cams and allow them to give maximum torque. Also, make sure that the surfaces that the washers snug up against are nice and clean and free from oil, grease and crud. Edited February 7, 201610 yr by danielrlee
February 7, 201610 yr Author I've used double nut in the past and I wasn't too happy with the results... I'd like to avoid that if possible and yes, there is a bit of play in the dropout as it has been slightly worn out... however, I'd still expect the nut to hold tight. Would adding grease make a difference? what grease should I get?
February 7, 201610 yr I've used double nut in the past and I wasn't too happy with the results... I'd like to avoid that if possible and yes, there is a bit of play in the dropout as it has been slightly worn out... however, I'd still expect the nut to hold tight. Would adding grease make a difference? what grease should I get? A tiny bit of grease - any grease - on the thread will help the nut nip up tighter.
February 7, 201610 yr A tiny bit of grease - any grease - on the thread will help the nut nip up tighter. Good advice no matter what fastener you use! I recently found myself getting very frustrated with a chain splitter that didn't work as it used to. After half an hour and a hand full of scraped knuckles I realised the problem. A squirt of oil to the thread of the tool and it was working again with minimum effort. Lesson learnt: Never underestimate the friction generated by a poorly lubed thread. Edited February 7, 201610 yr by danielrlee
February 7, 201610 yr Good advice no matter what fastener you use! Quite, given to me by a former shipyard apprentice - some of the fasteners he dealt with were bigger than Cwah's wheel, let alone the axle.
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