Thanks David - I'll have a word with Norman.

 

Regards

 

RL

Ruy

 

I have sent you a PM.

 

regards

 

Norman

Norman

 

Thanks for the new brake levers, I look forward to fitting them and trying them out.

OOOps!-frying pan to fire

 

New brake handles arrived today, great, after half an hour of joyfully unwrapping and detaching fittings I swoped them over and all appeared fine, for a short while.

From the brake perspective a much improved sharper and tighter feel. Thats the good bit.

Bad bit in removing the electricians I have obviously either disconnected something previously connected, or mistakenly plugged into a wrong socket, get power to switch but no power to motor.

I have come across wiring diagram in previous threads but after an hour of searching can no longer find.

Could any one point me in the right direction please.

 

Regards

Cometxt

I recieved the brake levers thanks.

It was a whole 30 seconds before I broke them.

The spring snapped, have you got any more? :o

I have used the spring from the old one but it doesn't quite do the job.

New brake handles arrived today, great, after half an hour of joyfully unwrapping and detaching fittings I swoped them over and all appeared fine, for a short while.

From the brake perspective a much improved sharper and tighter feel. Thats the good bit.

Bad bit in removing the electricians I have obviously either disconnected something previously connected, or mistakenly plugged into a wrong socket, get power to switch but no power to motor.

I have come across wiring diagram in previous threads but after an hour of searching can no longer find.

Could any one point me in the right direction please.

 

Regards

Cometxt

 

I had that problem too, but it turned out that the micro switch in one of the brake lever housings wasn't quite closing properly, thus the power to the motor was permanently cut off. Test by unplugging the brake levers from the controller and trying it. If the brake switch is faulty the motor should still work when they are disconnected.

It may not be the answer, but it is the simple first place to check.

Hope it helps.

 

Phil

I recieved the brake levers thanks.

It was a whole 30 seconds before I broke them.

The spring snapped, have you got any more? :o

I have used the spring from the old one but it doesn't quite do the job.

 

Funny that, exactly the same happened to me. I also used a spring from an old lever (not the old Wisper one as I had rashly binned those before busting the new lever spring). I just did a bit of surgery on an old spring to beef it up a bit and that has been fine since. I probably should have asked for new spring, but was too lazy to bother .

 

Phil

Just (literally) got my new levers, not had chance to fit them yet.

Many thanks to David and Norman!

 

 

These APSE ones are MUCH better built than the old Wuxing ones, with an all metal construction that inspires confidence.

 

Interestingly one of them has only a short lead on in with a 3 (yes 3) pin connector.... that'll provide some interest a hall effect switch perhaps? Looking inside the lever, the switch on that on doesn't have a waterproof cover either unlike the other... it's a mystery. Oh well if it's a problem I can always do some transplantation from the old levers.

 

I'm looking forward to fitting these!

I had that problem too, but it turned out that the micro switch in one of the brake lever housings wasn't quite closing properly, thus the power to the motor was permanently cut off. Test by unplugging the brake levers from the controller and trying it. If the brake switch is faulty the motor should still work when they are disconnected.

It may not be the answer, but it is the simple first place to check.

Hope it helps.

 

Phil

Phil

 

Thanks for the advice. Spot on. Spent a further hour marking the wires and putting the brake handle back together after tweaking the micro switch, now working fine.

 

Regards

 

Cometxt

Apologies to any customers who may have received the modified levers with a 3 pin connector.

 

Please send me a PM with your address details and I will send you the correct lever(s) with the two pin plug.

 

I can also provide some replacement springs for any that have failed.

 

Norman

That'll be me then, my right hand lever has a short lead with a three pin plug.

PM on the way.

I've just replaced my old Wisper levers with some Avid levers. They're much better.

 

I didn't bother messing about with the motor cutoff wires. I just snipped the buggers. Crazy idea anyway.

Not so crazy when you're in a queue of traffic moving slowly to the lights, and you tap the pedals to move forward a couple of feet. It's much more convenient to to use the brake cut-off than switch the electrics off altogether.

 

Oh, and a quick question for David/Norman, were the brake levers upgraded for the 2009 model 905se? If so, would it be possible to purchase a pair? As I already have a problem with the tension adjuster for the rear brakes on my 2008 model, in that the thread is no longer meshing between it and the lever, and so no adjustment is possible.

 

I was also wondering about the possibility of you adding a components section to your website, particularly since you have the upgraded models, stuff like rims, suspension forks, maybe bits for the brakes, along with replacement handlebar modules? Not that I need any such bits at the moment, but I imagine it would be useful for someone following an accident, or looking to upgrade the standard equipment.

Edited April 23, 200917 yr by Straylight

Spares

 

Hi Straylight

 

Send me your address to miall@aol.com and I will get a set of new brake levers out to you FOC.

 

I am in the process of adding the spares to the web site but it will take a couple of weeks to finalise.

 

Best regards David

Not so crazy when you're in a queue of traffic moving slowly to the lights, and you tap the pedals to move forward a couple of feet. It's much more convenient to to use the brake cut-off than switch the electrics off altogether.

 

 

Hi Straylight!,

 

I don't switch the electrics off. I release the throttle and the motor cuts out. Or if I'm relying on pedelec mode then when I stop pedaling the motor cuts out.

 

Perhaps the motor cutout can be a little unreliable and I've just not noticed it yet?.

 

But the fact is that the brake cutoffs have never worked from day one. They just weren't connected up properly. and one was literally hanging out at the socket.

Edited April 24, 200917 yr by wibble

Sorry to hear that, I find as I'm invariably in 'high' pedelec mode, that the surge from the motor is just a little uncontrolled in this situation, and so rely on the brake switches to retain a measure of accuracy.

 

I would use the high/low settings if the were a bit more accessible to my left thumb, it'd be nice to see this integrated into the unit with the green button at some stage - could be a single button with an LED that toggles the modes. IMO, this would refine the look of the controls, and leave more space on the handlebars for additional lights/computers etc. But I digress wandering somewhat OT....

Sorry to hear that, I find as I'm invariably in 'high' pedelec mode, that the surge from the motor is just a little uncontrolled in this situation, and so rely on the brake switches to retain a measure of accuracy.

 

I would use the high/low settings if the were a bit more accessible to my left thumb, it'd be nice to see this integrated into the unit with the green button at some stage - could be a single button with an LED that toggles the modes. IMO, this would refine the look of the controls, and leave more space on the handlebars for additional lights/computers etc. But I digress wandering somewhat OT....

 

I slid the box along the bars so it's close to the left grip, and now the buttons are easy to reach with my left thumb - and I've got small hands. Just slacken the clamp and reposition it.

 

Rog.

yes, I've done this too. I guess I'm just being picky but the buttons don't fall under your thumb even so, and still need a glance downward to find easily. If they were closer, and indeed a single button, then it could become an intuitive action when approaching slow moving trafic.

These new brake levers, is anyone else finding the two finger lever a bit short? I'm having trouble getting enough force to the brake to get it to stop properly.

I'll let you know when mine arrive, what are the levers attached to, v-brakes? If so, I've found a significant improvement by switching the blocks to Avids, and also regularly clean the rims to maintain their grip. I'd also check the block alignment to the rim to try and improve things.

I'll let you know when mine arrive, what are the levers attached to, v-brakes? If so, I've found a significant improvement by switching the blocks to Avids, and also regularly clean the rims to maintain their grip. I'd also check the block alignment to the rim to try and improve things.

I have disk at the front and V brakes at the rear, the rear is OK as that requires a lot less pressure. My front is still not great despite a series of improvements, the pull ratio now feels right but the short lever means I can't apply enough pressure.

I don't know much about disc brakes, but is there an alternative pad you can try? I found my Vs improved significantly by switching to aviid blocks, also maybe degrease the discs? Stands to reason though, that with a shorter lever, you'll get less, well, leverage :o

I don't know much about disc brakes, but is there an alternative pad you can try? I found my Vs improved significantly by switching to aviid blocks, also maybe degrease the discs? Stands to reason though, that with a shorter lever, you'll get less, well, leverage :o

There are different pads available but as I don't know what type of pads the bike came with I don't know if a different set will be any better. The extreme ones don't seem to be available, probably as they overheat easily.

The brake is almost there after several improvements, two finger brake levers are usually very specialist items and I'm suprised to see them as standard. I'll try fitting the full length levers from the old brakes when I get time, but it will need adjusting to fit.

Two fingure levers

 

Hi Mussells

 

I am in China today at the China Bike show, would you like me to find some longer levers for you? I would be intrerseted to see if the make a big difference.

 

All the best David

As an experiment to improve the braking force of my v-brakes, I've installed the 'Avid Single digit 5' brakes from my Marin in combination with the standard Wisper long levers on the rear wheel. I haven't taken it out yet, but when balancing the brakes I've found a profound difference in A. the force required on the lever (a lot less), and B. the braking effect (when the wheel is spinning quite fast, the brakes stop it dead).

 

I will report more after a test ride, I think the only issue will be an increased risk of locking the wheel, but this will simply be a matter of self calibration In fact, I was so impressed with the difference that I immediately ordered two pairs of brakes in black (the ones from my Marin are silver - and about a decade old).

 

Out of interest, as an aside, the Avid levers on the Marin are somewhat shorter than the Wisper's, and also have an adjustment screw on the pivot to set the progressiveness of the braking, so maybe when my new levers arrive, they'll prove to be more compatible, looking forward to seeing the difference I should also add that I'm using Clarkes inserts in Avid RW2 cassetes, as these have proven to be more durable on my marin than the Avid standard blocks (and they're cheaper too! ).

Edited May 4, 200917 yr by Straylight