Ok, First question; anyone used a Rohloff hub on an e-mtb instead of defailleurs? I'm thinking it would be much more suitable.

 

Secondly; can you buy frame and fork (and motor) only packages instead of complete bikes?

 

Thirdly; I've read that front derailleurs don't work that well with the added power of the motor and they're developing emtb specific versions. Why aren't they just going the whole mile and fitting the bikes with gearboxes instead?! The g boxx system been around for years on DH bikes. Weight much less of an issue with a motor!

I have had a rohloff hub on a normal mountain bike.

 

In fact I have had two!

One fitted to a hardtail, and the other to a Nicolai full suspension bike.

 

In my opinion it is better suited to a hardtail due to the complication of running a change n tensioner, which is just like a dummy rear mech on the full suspension bike.

 

All the weight is centred in the hub, which does affect the handling somewhat, but it just takes a little getting used to.

 

The main concern that I can think of is the amount of torque that the ebike will generate.

There is a restriction on the minimum gear ratio due to the torque a rider will generate in climbing, therefore, I think it's a non starter for an ebike.

 

It certainly is a more convenient method for a hardtail gear system , but it is quite costly.

If a ebike could be made to work with it, it would also negate the slight increased drag which is in the system also.

I have had a rohloff hub on a normal mountain bike.

 

In fact I have had two!

One fitted to a hardtail, and the other to a Nicolai full suspension bike.

 

In my opinion it is better suited to a hardtail due to the complication of running a change n tensioner, which is just like a dummy rear mech on the full suspension bike.

 

All the weight is centred in the hub, which does affect the handling somewhat, but it just takes a little getting used to.

 

The main concern that I can think of is the amount of torque that the ebike will generate.

There is a restriction on the minimum gear ratio due to the torque a rider will generate in climbing, therefore, I think it's a non starter for an ebike.

 

It certainly is a more convenient method for a hardtail gear system , but it is quite costly.

If a ebike could be made to work with it, it would also negate the slight increased drag which is in the system also.

Rohloff hubs are fitted to Riese and Muller ebikes which have the Bosch CX motor.

 

Combined ride and motor torque is not a problem provided the Rohloff is run within the stated front ring/rear ring number of teeth of limits.

Hi, yes, me also had the hub on a hardtail 69er now on a full sus bionicon. It works flawlessly on mine which is why I wondered if it would suit an e bike. I hear traditional mechs struggle. The two problems I foresee are that you have to pause pedalling to change gear, dont know if ebike cuts out immediately you stop pedalling? Second I'm looking at full sussers with the boost hub standard and not sure if the rohloff can be adapted to that?

Rohloff hubs are fitted to Riese and Muller ebikes which have the Bosch CX motor.

 

Combined ride and motor torque is not a problem provided the Rohloff is run within the stated front ring/rear ring number of teeth of limits.

Great info, thanks! When you say 'stated' is thay by rohloff or bosch? Do you know where I might find those sprocket sizes?

Ok, First question; anyone used a Rohloff hub on an e-mtb instead of defailleurs? I'm thinking it would be much more suitable.

I think it's too heavy for a normal electric bike. It's probably better suited to high power (illegal) ones.

 

Secondly; can you buy frame and fork (and motor) only packages instead of complete bikes?

You can buy anything you want. have a look on Ebay

 

Thirdly; I've read that front derailleurs don't work that well with the added power of the motor and they're developing emtb specific versions. Why aren't they just going the whole mile and fitting the bikes with gearboxes instead?! The g boxx system been around for years on DH bikes. Weight much less of an issue with a motor!

When you use a hub-motor, they work better because there's less stress on the chain.

 

Why make things complicated. Normal derailleur gears are cheap, lightweight, efficient and work perfectly. What is there to improve?

Great info, thanks! When you say 'stated' is thay by rohloff or bosch? Do you know where I might find those sprocket sizes?

 

Rohloff publish recommended teeth combinations - have a root around their website.

 

Slight complication with the Bosch motor is the multiplying gear at the front, so you will have to do some arithmetic to work out the equivalent front ring size.

I think it's too heavy for a normal electric bike. It's probably better suited to high power (illegal) ones.

 

 

You can buy anything you want. have a look on Ebay

 

 

When you use a hub-motor, they work better because there's less stress on the chain.

 

Why make things complicated. Normal derailleur gears are cheap, lightweight, efficient and work perfectly. What is there to improve?

I think it's too heavy for a normal electric bike. It's probably better suited to high power (illegal) ones.

 

 

You can buy anything you want. have a look on Ebay

 

 

When you use a hub-motor, they work better because there's less stress on the chain.

 

Why make things complicated. Normal derailleur gears are cheap, lightweight, efficient and work perfectly. What is there to improve?

 

Increased chain life because the chain is not being derailed all the time.

 

Increased chain life due to the higher line attracting less road dirt.

 

The ability to change gear while standing still.

 

Reliable changing because the indexing is inside the Rohloff hub.

 

Fewer cogs makes for a cleaner back end.

 

Simple sequential changing on one shifter - less clutter on the bars and no duplicated ratios.

 

But I'm sure you are right, apart from the above, what has the Rohloff gear hub ever done for us?

Tougher chains as they are larger.

Simpler chain lines.

Even stepped gears.

Don't clog with mud.

The derailleur never gets caught in the spokes causing rear wheel skids.

They haven't done much for us at all

Thanks for the answers!

Regarding derailleurs, years of muddy mountain biking has shown that as soon as it gets dirty a derailleur set up starts to fail. Shifting goes out or stops altogether. Chains snap. With the rohloff being completely sealed it works no matter what. Only downside is its heavy and expensive!

So now you can see why I'd want it on an e bike! Brilliant on singletrack, change as many gears as you want at any time, instantly, bliss!

Thanks for the answers!

Regarding derailleurs, years of muddy mountain biking has shown that as soon as it gets dirty a derailleur set up starts to fail. Shifting goes out or stops altogether. Chains snap. With the rohloff being completely sealed it works no matter what. Only downside is its heavy and expensive!

 

Even the oft-quoted weight disadvantage is not quite what it seems.

 

To get the equivalent range, you need a cassette, rear mech, front mech, three rings at the front, and a longer chain.

 

The weight of that little lot is about the same as a Rohloff hub, one ring at the back, one at the front, and the (shorter) chain.

 

Of course, the weight of the Rohloff is all at the back, so there is a balance disadvantage.

 

Even that is largely irrelevant in a touring application, although it will be more keenly felt on a mountain bike, particularly one being used to its full potential by a skilled rider.

Even the oft-quoted weight disadvantage is not quite what it seems.

 

To get the equivalent range, you need a cassette, rear mech, front mech, three rings at the front, and a longer chain.

 

The weight of that little lot is about the same as a Rohloff hub, one ring at the back, one at the front, and the (shorter) chain.

 

Of course, the weight of the Rohloff is all at the back, so there is a balance disadvantage.

 

Even that is largely irrelevant in a touring application, although it will be more keenly felt on a mountain bike, particularly one being used to its full potential by a skilled rider.

With the front heavy nature of bikes with long travel forks it actually balances out ok. Love mine to bits!

Increased chain life because the chain is not being derailed all the time.

 

Increased chain life due to the higher line attracting less road dirt.

 

My £8 Ebay chain has done 4000 miles with derailleur gears so far, and seems to have plenty of life left in it. How far would it go if I changed to a Rohlhoff?

Tougher chains as they are larger.

Simpler chain lines.

Even stepped gears.

Don't clog with mud.

The derailleur never gets caught in the spokes causing rear wheel skids.

They haven't done much for us at all

the only 2 cents I would add is that (and I've had two rohloffs for five years or more, one on a Brompton, one on an old Kona fire mountain hybrid with raised stem I use for commuting) a rohloff is so good in its own right it may put you off pedelecing, always having exactly the right gear ratio available at the click of a switch can make muscle power seem quite enough

I went Nuvinci N360 for pretty much same reasons.

Nuvinci is another masterpiece of engineering, but again it's very heavy.

 

There's nothing to stop you making your bike as heavy as you want, but my advice is to get rid of all that overweight junk and make your bike as light as possible.

 

A light bike will give you a much better cycling experience with or without electric support. You'll get more range, better hill-climbing, better handling and easier pedalling.

 

It doesn't make sense to build or buy a heavy bike.

I've had derailleur equipped bikes for over 30 years now, fancied a change!.

 

One has fixed speed and carbon belt, the other has near infinite adjustable gearing (within range).

My £8 Ebay chain has done 4000 miles with derailleur gears so far, and seems to have plenty of life left in it. How far would it go if I changed to a Rohlhoff?

That's good value! How many of those miles were through mud though?

i have the same MTB that flits back and forth between 3 x 9 XTR and a rohloff.

 

The difference is 1.8lbs to the total bike weight.

 

both rear wheels have the same hub and tire on , both are set up tubeless.

 

the total bike weight is 22lbs with XTR and 23.8 with rohloff ... and its 19.6 when its SS

 

Rohloff is epic in winter in the hills in gloopy mud and snow BUT at a price. its draggy and makes the rear of the bike damned heavy its no good when im racing.

 

I also have a alfines 8s (recently sold my own one) in the house and 2 sturmey archer 3 speeds in the house.

 

The alfines a good price point and its fairly robust but its not nearly a comparison for the rohloff and requires looking after.

 

and the sturmeys are bullet proof but poorly sealed.

 

An ebike would hide the weight and drag quite well i reckon ! - i have pigeon holed my rohloff for the cargo e bike eventually if i find my self using it enough.

i have the same MTB that flits back and forth between 3 x 9 XTR and a rohloff.

 

The difference is 1.8lbs to the total bike weight.

 

both rear wheels have the same hub and tire on , both are set up tubeless.

 

the total bike weight is 22lbs with XTR and 23.8 with rohloff ... and its 19.6 when its SS

 

Rohloff is epic in winter in the hills in gloopy mud and snow BUT at a price. its draggy and makes the rear of the bike damned heavy its no good when im racing.

 

I also have a alfines 8s (recently sold my own one) in the house and 2 sturmey archer 3 speeds in the house.

 

The alfines a good price point and its fairly robust but its not nearly a comparison for the rohloff and requires looking after.

 

and the sturmeys are bullet proof but poorly sealed.

 

An ebike would hide the weight and drag quite well i reckon ! - i have pigeon holed my rohloff for the cargo e bike eventually if i find my self using it enough.

 

That's what I thought, the e bike is heavier anyway and has the extra power to cancel the rohloff out. Now I've used the rohloff extensively I can't stand using derailleurs. Why would you want to change gear using one of four levers in two different places, then wait for it to clatter it's way in when you can change as many gears as you like, instantly with just one control?! On road bikes and low end cheapies they make sense, on an mtb I hate them, even in the dry. I genuinely believe they help put casual cyclists off bikes! I think people are indoctrinated to derailleurs as most people experience them first and exclusively, imagine if people got used to hubs and then were offered derailleurs, they'd be laughed off! The end of my rant is; why aren't all mtbs running gearboxes? If sram and shimano put their weight behind them they'd drop in weight and price very quickly. (I do know why, same as car manufacturers, they want parts to fail and need replacing for the good of their business and derailleurs fit that requirement perfectly!)