I've just finishing wiring in some lights on my Giant E+ Dirt 2016.

 

There are quite a few threads around the internet that show how to install lights - but these are generally for the Haibike variants.

 

The Giant install is slightly different - some fiddly trim - and different connectors - so I thought that I would share my experience

The install is also cheaper as they use simple connectors that are available pre wired - ebay / RC model shops at lower cost to the Haibike JST Splitter cable. - 2GBP for three pairs of connectors.

 

I wish I had known this before I began - I sourced a Haibike style cable from Germany (cheaper than buying in the UK — and from a company that would actually sell me one - unlike some UK ‘businesses’ - Then I opened the Giant up and realised I needed a different connector ! ! !

 

You can do a Haibike setup for about 2GBP per unit also - if you have a good quality crimper - but you need to purchase the connectors in 10 unit packs - so the price jumps up unless you are making a few connectors.

 

Keeping the Haibike cable for now - as my wife has been looking at one of the Women's Haibike variants - so might come in useful later if she wants built in lights.

 

Parts & Tools

 

SM 2.5 2 PIN JST Female Connector - get one pre wired

 

Usual selection of hex keys

X Head Screwdriver

Soldering Iron

Solder

Heat Shrink Tube - small and medium

Crank Nut wrench (not strictly needed - but might come in useful)

2m twin cable - I used some from an old broken transformer.

Lights

 

 

 

Getting Started - Bike in Upright Position

 

1 Unfasten the lower battery holder by removing the four bolts

You need to be able to move battery holder up to release the side trims in the next steps

 

[/url]

 

 

2. Remove left hand side trim by removing the three bolts

 

Wiggle the battery connector up a little to release the end of the trim.

 

I took the pedal off to completely remove the trim from the bike - not essential - but gives more working space and stops potential damage.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162906_ed_zpsduk5sfqh.jpg[/url]

 

This is the lug fastener at the end of the trim - this is why you need to remove the bolts from the battery housing - so that it can lift and allow the trim removal.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162908_ed_zpspjsb2ugh.jpg[/url]

 

3. Remove right hand side trim by removing the three bolts and One silver screw.

 

 

The screw is hidden behind the chain set and is difficult to remove.

 

I took out one of the crank nuts and used an old slightly bent screwdriver to reach through the nut hole as it brings the driver more inline with the nut.

 

If you have the time or inclination to remove the chain set the screw is easy - I have my trusty bent screwdriver to help me on these occasions.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162909_ed_zpsmkq5ouaz.jpg[/url]

 

 

Bike in Upside Down Position

 

Don’t forget to remove / tilt the display out of the way

 

4. Remove the skid plate

 

One bolt under the front stem - and a couple of screws.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162907_ed_zpsehzasfoq.jpg[/url]

 

Another opportunity for the bent screwdriver to remove the screws - but much easier than the Right Hand Trim.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162911_ed_zpsiyrusroq.jpg[/url]

 

 

The motor is now exposed

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162913_ed_zpstq6yh752.jpg[/url]

 

 

5. Remove TWO Motor Bolts - Loosen ONE

 

Bolts highlighted in Orange - remove - take care to catch the washers and nuts

 

Bolt Highlighted in Green - Loosen off but leave in place (with the nut attached) so that it can act as a hinge when you lift the motor.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162910_ed_zps9kpw5gwv.jpg[/url]

 

When you lift the motor you can - on some bikes tighten the pivot / hinge bolt to hold the motor in the raised position. No luck on my bike so I put a piece of old seat post cutoff between the motor and frame to give me some working space.

 

 

6. The Wiring

 

Usual set of cables to connect the machinations of an e-bike.

 

One of the good things about the Giant - is the amount of tube space to hide wires and connectors in - It makes tucking the cables away quick and easy - can't comment on other makes - they might be as spacious.

 

Highlighted is the Light Cable

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162914_ed_zpszbixfksj.jpg[/url]

 

Here's a pic of the connector you need

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/SM_2_5_2_PIN_JST_CONNECTOR_zpsbaow92eg.jpg[/url]

 

Other views of the wiring set up for people who like these things.

 

Wires to the Motor

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162917_ed_zpsnkitglel.jpg[/url]

 

Wire to the Battery Housing

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162918_ed_zps9ce7xaei.jpg[/url]

 

7. Cable Routing

 

Front cable - Down through the tube under the battery - same route as the controller cable - lots of space - very easy

 

Rear Cable - There is a slot behind the motor where the speed monitor cable routes - lots of space - very easy

 

8. Quick test

 

Fastened one of the battery holder bolts back in place and fitted the battery.

 

Twisted the cable for the rear light in place to test that it worked and the polarity was correct

Marked the ‘Red’ with a tab of tape.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162921_ed_zpsu2nkhvsr.jpg[/url]

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162920_ed_zpszb3ofmxn.jpg[/url]

 

Repeated for the front lights

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162922_ed_zps0bawekwh.jpg[/url]

 

9. Connecting Up

 

From here - it’s a simple soldering job

 

Soldered front and rear reds together

Soldered front and rear blacks together

Soldered Connector wires (from the prewired connector) to the relevant black/ red

 

Covered joins with heat shrink

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162924_ed_zpsvdn2dc2n.jpg[/url]

 

Covered the whole connection with medium sized heat shrink.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162926_ed_zpsqfpuj45k.jpg

 

Tested - all okay

 

10. Re-assembly

 

Tuck the cables away - as mentioned there is plenty of space in the tube

 

If you have tested the lighting (who would not ?!?!) - remove the battery and the holding bolt as you will need to be able to move the base battery holder to re-assemble.

 

Reverse procedure for the motor / trim etc

 

I took the opportunity to give everything a good clean also - I’ve dragged the bike through lots of mud, dust and a stream in the last week - It’s amazing where the dirt goes ! !

Noticed some rust on the motor bolts - which I'll keep an eye on - and add a spot of grease here to my maintenance regime.

 

Hope that this helps someone

 

Cheers

 

Mike

Edited September 17, 20169 yr by mike tatt

For some reason one of the images above - removal of Left Hand Trim has disappeared

 

Here it is for reference.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162911_ed_zpsiyrusroq.jpg

I've just finishing wiring in some lights on my Giant E+ Dirt 2016.

 

There are quite a few threads around the internet that show how to install lights - but these are generally for the Haibike variants.

 

The Giant install is slightly different - some fiddly trim - and different connectors - so I thought that I would share my experience

The install is also cheaper as they use simple connectors that are available pre wired - ebay / RC model shops at lower cost to the Haibike JST Splitter cable. - 2GBP for three pairs of connectors.

 

I wish I had known this before I began - I sourced a Haibike style cable from Germany (cheaper than buying in the UK — and from a company that would actually sell me one - unlike some UK ‘businesses’ - Then I opened the Giant up and realised I needed a different connector ! ! !

 

You can do a Haibike setup for about 2GBP per unit also - if you have a good quality crimper - but you need to purchase the connectors in 10 unit packs - so the price jumps up unless you are making a few connectors.

 

Keeping the Haibike cable for now - as my wife has been looking at one of the Women's Haibike variants - so might come in useful later if she wants built in lights.

 

Parts & Tools

 

SM 2.5 2 PIN JST Female Connector - get one pre wired

 

Usual selection of hex keys

X Head Screwdriver

Soldering Iron

Solder

Heat Shrink Tube - small and medium

Crank Nut wrench (not strictly needed - but might come in useful)

2m twin cable - I used some from an old broken transformer.

Lights

 

 

 

Getting Started - Bike in Upright Position

 

1 Unfasten the lower battery holder by removing the four bolts

You need to be able to move battery holder up to release the side trims in the next steps

 

[/url]

 

 

2. Remove left hand side trim by removing the three bolts

 

Wiggle the battery connector up a little to release the end of the trim.

 

I took the pedal off to completely remove the trim from the bike - not essential - but gives more working space and stops potential damage.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162906_ed_zpsduk5sfqh.jpg[/url]

 

This is the lug fastener at the end of the trim - this is why you need to remove the bolts from the battery housing - so that it can lift and allow the trim removal.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162908_ed_zpspjsb2ugh.jpg[/url]

 

3. Remove right hand side trim by removing the three bolts and One silver screw.

 

 

The screw is hidden behind the chain set and is difficult to remove.

 

I took out one of the crank nuts and used an old slightly bent screwdriver to reach through the nut hole as it brings the driver more inline with the nut.

 

If you have the time or inclination to remove the chain set the screw is easy - I have my trusty bent screwdriver to help me on these occasions.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162909_ed_zpsmkq5ouaz.jpg[/url]

 

 

Bike in Upside Down Position

 

Don’t forget to remove / tilt the display out of the way

 

4. Remove the skid plate

 

One bolt under the front stem - and a couple of screws.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162907_ed_zpsehzasfoq.jpg[/url]

 

Another opportunity for the bent screwdriver to remove the screws - but much easier than the Right Hand Trim.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162911_ed_zpsiyrusroq.jpg[/url]

 

 

The motor is now exposed

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162913_ed_zpstq6yh752.jpg[/url]

 

 

5. Remove TWO Motor Bolts - Loosen ONE

 

Bolts highlighted in Orange - remove - take care to catch the washers and nuts

 

Bolt Highlighted in Green - Loosen off but leave in place (with the nut attached) so that it can act as a hinge when you lift the motor.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162910_ed_zps9kpw5gwv.jpg[/url]

 

When you lift the motor you can - on some bikes tighten the pivot / hinge bolt to hold the motor in the raised position. No luck on my bike so I put a piece of old seat post cutoff between the motor and frame to give me some working space.

 

 

6. The Wiring

 

Usual set of cables to connect the machinations of an e-bike.

 

One of the good things about the Giant - is the amount of tube space to hide wires and connectors in - It makes tucking the cables away quick and easy - can't comment on other makes - they might be as spacious.

 

Highlighted is the Light Cable

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162914_ed_zpszbixfksj.jpg[/url]

 

Here's a pic of the connector you need

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/SM_2_5_2_PIN_JST_CONNECTOR_zpsbaow92eg.jpg[/url]

 

Other views of the wiring set up for people who like these things.

 

Wires to the Motor

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162917_ed_zpsnkitglel.jpg[/url]

 

Wire to the Battery Housing

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162918_ed_zps9ce7xaei.jpg[/url]

 

7. Cable Routing

 

Front cable - Down through the tube under the battery - same route as the controller cable - lots of space - very easy

 

Rear Cable - There is a slot behind the motor where the speed monitor cable routes - lots of space - very easy

 

8. Quick test

 

Fastened one of the battery holder bolts back in place and fitted the battery.

 

Twisted the cable for the rear light in place to test that it worked and the polarity was correct

Marked the ‘Red’ with a tab of tape.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162921_ed_zpsu2nkhvsr.jpg[/url]

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162920_ed_zpszb3ofmxn.jpg[/url]

 

Repeated for the front lights

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162922_ed_zps0bawekwh.jpg[/url]

 

9. Connecting Up

 

From here - it’s a simple soldering job

 

Soldered front and rear reds together

Soldered front and rear blacks together

Soldered Connector wires (from the prewired connector) to the relevant black/ red

 

Covered joins with heat shrink

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162924_ed_zpsvdn2dc2n.jpg[/url]

 

Covered the whole connection with medium sized heat shrink.

 

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162926_ed_zpsqfpuj45k.jpg

 

Tested - all okay

 

10. Re-assembly

 

Tuck the cables away - as mentioned there is plenty of space in the tube

 

If you have tested the lighting (who would not ?!?!) - remove the battery and the holding bolt as you will need to be able to move the base battery holder to re-assemble.

 

Reverse procedure for the motor / trim etc

 

I took the opportunity to give everything a good clean also - I’ve dragged the bike through lots of mud, dust and a stream in the last week - It’s amazing where the dirt goes ! !

Noticed some rust on the motor bolts - which I'll keep an eye on - and add a spot of grease here to my maintenance regime.

 

Hope that this helps someone

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

Hi Mike,

I am very interested in the advice you have posted. For some reason, I cannot see any of the images you have posted though. Can you help?

 

Thanks and best regards,

Robin

Pointless in posting Photobucket pics now or viewing past pics unless the account holder has paid the ransom money now demanded.

Thanks Neal, yeah, I was coming to that conclusion. Found some other articles on the same topic though so will follow that up. Cheers,

Robin

You can find most of them with Google using this search string:

 

mike_tatt Giant E+ Dirt 2016

mike_tatt lights

Mike_tatt wiring

 

If there's any missing, use a bit of imagination in your search string.

Perfect, thanks

Perfect, thanks

What a pain in the bum

 

I'll put together a fresh file - probably a PDF and add a link - then I'll see if I can find an alternative to photobucket and update the page - or add a fresh post to replace

Cheers

Mike

Hi Mike,

I am very interested in the advice you have posted. For some reason, I cannot see any of the images you have posted though. Can you help?

 

Thanks and best regards,

Robin

 

Hi Robin

 

I've created a PDF version to download - edited slightly - all images intact

 

https://tinyurl.com/y8s386fb

 

Cheers

Mike

A PDF Version of this guide including images can be found at this link - view online or download.

 

https://tinyurl.com/y8s386fb

Nice one Mike, it is amazing that Giant do not supply this info. I am grateful to you for your help.

Nice one Mike, it is amazing that Giant do not supply this info. I am grateful to you for your help.

No worries Robin, I'm just glad it's of use.

 

I agree that it would be great if Giant - and other manufacturers would supply decent service manuals / information - but I suppose that the franchised sellers might not be too happy about it !

Further to this info that I followed very successfully to fit lights to my Giant Dirt E+1 2017.

There is a much easier method to install lights on this bike.

Simply pull the rubber grommet out of the top tube where the cables exit near the handlebar end. Then carefully pull out the cables a few inches and you will find a white (free) 2 pin connector. This is one of the lighting outputs which can be used for both front and rear lights. The connector on top of the motor is also there so presume they intended one for front and one for rear. The connectors referred to in this article are different on my model. I obtained the correct ones from Farnell part no 3849818 for the connector & 3849790 for the pins. Cost about £12 with the minimum quantities of 5 & 10 respectively.

Using this method you are much less likely to invalidate any warranty and it's quicker & easier although rear light cable would need to bee run externally so less attractive and subject to damage.

Hope this helps someone

Further to this info that I followed very successfully to fit lights to my Giant Dirt E+1 2017........

Looks like Giant have changed the connectors on later models.

 

I bought a ready made up connector - combination of the Farnell Parts you mentioned - as I thought that was correct.

 

I was following a huge thread on a German emtb site which went into great detail - but was focussed on Haibike Yamaha powered bikes. - I presumed that the Giant (being Yamaha driven) would be the same - so I sourced one - - alas - no - the connectors were different.

 

Also no connector anywhere the top tube.. I wish ! !

 

Moral of the story - basically check the wiring config before buying any parts

 

Thanks for the update -

 

Cheers

Mike

Further to this info that I followed very successfully to fit lights to my Giant Dirt E+1 2017.

There is a much easier method to install lights on this bike.

Simply pull the rubber grommet out of the top tube where the cables exit near the handlebar end. Then carefully pull out the cables a few inches and you will find a white (free) 2 pin connector. This is one of the lighting outputs which can be used for both front and rear lights. The connector on top of the motor is also there so presume they intended one for front and one for rear. The connectors referred to in this article are different on my model. I obtained the correct ones from Farnell part no 3849818 for the connector & 3849790 for the pins. Cost about £12 with the minimum quantities of 5 & 10 respectively.

Using this method you are much less likely to invalidate any warranty and it's quicker & easier although rear light cable would need to bee run externally so less attractive and subject to damage.

Hope this helps someone[/

what voltage lights can be used?

Hi Chris

 

Can't find the tech spec for the bike - but seem to remember that the front can power 12v okay with 6v at the rear.

 

I have an AXA Blueline on the front - rated at 6v and a Busch & Müller rear - rated for 5-15 volts.

They work great and are fine for road / canal bank use - did the mod for my commute to work - working from home now so don't use them much now ! ! !

 

I spend over 90% of my night time riding off road so use a clip on Chinese Cree lamp - which I'm going to wire up properly and test when I get some spare time.

Cheers

Mike

Hi Chris

 

Can't find the tech spec for the bike - but seem to remember that the front can power 12v okay with 6v at the rear.

 

I have an AXA Blueline on the front - rated at 6v and a Busch & Müller rear - rated for 5-15 volts.

They work great and are fine for road / canal bank use - did the mod for my commute to work - working from home now so don't use them much now ! ! !

 

I spend over 90% of my night time riding off road so use a clip on Chinese Cree lamp - which I'm going to wire up properly and test when I get some spare time.

Cheers

Mike

I can only find one input wire on my bike from behind the frame rubber grommet. and it looks like one light is to be fixed to it

Revisiting what I did (it's been a while) - look like mine is the same - maybe could have made the instructions easier to follow for this.

 

I just soldered an extra wire on - so two red wires soldered to the single red cable on the connector - and two blacks to the single black cable on the connector-

Basically 'Y' splitting the cable

So It must also be pumping the same voltage to front and back

 

Hope this helps

Revisiting what I did (it's been a while) - look like mine is the same - maybe could have made the instructions easier to follow for this.

 

I just soldered an extra wire on - so two red wires soldered to the single red cable on the connector - and two blacks to the single black cable on the connector-

Basically 'Y' splitting the cable

So It must also be pumping the same voltage to front and back

 

Hope this helps

Strange I cant get mine to power a single 12v light but my cables from the bike are not red and black they are grey and white

Revisiting what I did (it's been a while) - look like mine is the same - maybe could have made the instructions easier to follow for this.

 

I just soldered an extra wire on - so two red wires soldered to the single red cable on the connector - and two blacks to the single black cable on the connector-

Basically 'Y' splitting the cable

So It must also be pumping the same voltage to front and back

 

Hope this helps

Do I have to do anything with the display to turn the power on or is yours just a continues current regardless?

Is the connector & wire on you bike the same as in Setcion / Pic 6 in the PDF link

 

Mine is Grey & white also - the red / black I mentioned is on the connector that I added (SM 2.5 2 PIN JST) - mine came with male plug at one end - and female socket a the other end - I just lopped off the make plug to create the tails to wire the lights to - the female plug just connects to the grey/ white wired connector on the bike.

 

To test / use you just need to press the light button on the handlebar controller - the light isn't continuous - and needs the button press

Is the connector & wire on you bike the same as in Setcion / Pic 6 in the PDF link

 

Mine is Grey & white also - the red / black I mentioned is on the connector that I added (SM 2.5 2 PIN JST) - mine came with male plug at one end - and female socket a the other end - I just lopped off the make plug to create the tails to wire the lights to - the female plug just connects to the grey/ white wired connector on the bike.

 

To test / use you just need to press the light button on the handlebar controller - the light isn't continuous - and needs the button press

Yes its the same as the one in the middle. I ordered the female to connect to the male and 12v light is not working for some reason

Hi Chris

Only suggestion would be to check the output with a meter - don't have one here at the moment to see what output I'm getting - will check at weekend.

Hi Mike and thank you for this most excellent post. I really appreciate you taking the time to provide these instructions.

I have a 2017 Giant Dirt-E+ 2 and according to Giant the AXA Blueline headlight is compatible with this model. However, the fastening point for the headlight is on the rear end on the fork instead of the front end. Pictured is the rear side of my fork. There is no hole on the front side. Where did you mount your headlight and what is the exact model?

 

Also, where did you tuck away the cables for the lights into the frame?

......However, the fastening point for the headlight is on the rear end on the fork instead of the front end.

 

...Also, where did you tuck away the cables for the lights into the frame?

 

Hi

 

I originally had the AXA Blueline 50 installed on the original fork which had the same screw(hole) config as yours.

The bracket fastens on easily - it just rests on the top of the fork with the 'down bracket' hooking over the back to be attached using a short bolt (Can't remember the 'M' dimension) and a spring washer.

I had to adjust and lower the top arm of the bracket to give a bit of clearance - but it's got key bolts on all the joints to do this. - Easy job.

 

You can see the bracket clearly on this ebay example

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/AXA-LED-Front-Light-blueline-50-E-bike-BULK-8712864351014/2118446674?iid=272306778476&_trksid=p2047675.m4097.l9055

 

Fitting the cable was straightforwards - just poked it through the brake cable hole at the top of the downtube and fed it down. There's loads of space if I remember rightly - and there's not a lot to snag on.

There's a rubber grommet around the hole - the process is much easier if you pop this out first - then re-fit.

 

Rear wires - fed through of a gap at the rear of the motor housing and then zip tied up the seatpost to the rear triangle. There's no way to route this internally.

 

I ended up making a handle bar bracket for the front when I changed forks - the new ones have no screw hole at all

Initially I commuted on the bike as well as off road - and the light was great for the roads and canal banks I was traveling on.

I tried it off road - and it scared the pants off me - just not enough illumination for fast single track at night - not fun at all.

 

Now I'm working from home - and close to the wilds (very lucky location for MTB) - so the only road I use is a 500m country lane so I've dropped the light completely and am looking around for some higher power replacements.

I've kept all the cabling intact though - hopefully I'll be able to power the new light without having an additional battery pack or recharging to faff with.

 

Hope this helps

Cheers

Mike