Is there such a thing as a cx powered road bike similar to the giant road e+1?

 

Well, it depends on what you mean by 'similar' ?

If its just a drop handlebar racer, then they are rare, but there are a few. Haibike Race S springs to mind, and I think I've seen one or two others either on German or US review sites.

no the motor bolts are in a different place on the pwx

 

Shame. I'd Certainly pay extra to 'upgrade' to get the higher cadence support if ever I needed to swap out a faulty Yamaha motor at some point in the future.

Actually I rather like the way the giant delivers power. My old legs don't like spinning much faster than 90 for more than a few seconds so any power above that would be wasted. On the plus side it gives heavy assist low down.. 60 rpms or less.. You know.. The place proper cyclists don't go for fear of injury.

I also found a way to utilise this lack of high cadence assist to great advantage so wouldnt swap if it were pisdible, but that's a conversation for elsewhere..

KTM Macina Flite. http://www.flidistribution.co.uk/ebikes/bosch-drive---hybrid-city-bikes/2018-ktm-macina-flite-11

 

 

And for direct comparison in respect of looks. The giant road e+1

 

 

The Giant looks pretty bulky by comparison.

 

There is also a 'Street' version of the KTM.

 

 

 

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When i saw the giant it was just what I wanted even though I didn't know what I wanted and as best I can recall there weren't many other options back then so had to have it. Now of course like others have found.. my ebikes aren't worth much so an upgrade is an expensive prospect

When i saw the giant it was just what I wanted even though I didn't know what I wanted and as best I can recall there weren't many other options back then so had to have it. Now of course like others have found.. my ebikes aren't worth much so an upgrade is an expensive prospect

was about 6k tho 2014 ver

When i saw the giant it was just what I wanted even though I didn't know what I wanted and as best I can recall there weren't many other options back then so had to have it. Now of course like others have found.. my ebikes aren't worth much so an upgrade is an expensive prospect

 

I'm not really convinced that the CX is they way to go for a road bike. I'd rather have a conventional chainring size, such as on the Giant.

 

I see the CX as being too restrictive in respect of gearing, and possibly front sprocket wear and tear.

I'm not really convinced that the CX is they way to go for a road bike. I'd rather have a conventional chainring size, such as on the Giant.

 

I see the CX as being too restrictive in respect of gearing, and possibly front sprocket wear and tear.

 

they dont even sell them anymore tho can ge 22t but i think 20t is the max tbh

http://www.pro-cycling-golla.de/Kettenblaetter/22_Zaehne_Made_in_Germany_artikel585514e82a989.html

was about 6k tho 2014 ver

It wasn't the price it was the battery integration that I hadn't seen before that took my eye. AND, which is a big and, it was available to buy from my local shop and they loaned me one to try.

I am not one of those that try in the shop and then buy online because that is really unfair to the dealers so bought it and havnt regretted it one bit.

SW, that would all but screw up the hill climbing ability. At least the Giant has a broad range of gears to cover every eventuality.

 

I'd love to try a drop bar ebike, but doubt that I could ever own one, as I suspect that I would find flat bars to be more comfortable and practical.

 

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SW, that would all but screw up the hill climbing ability. At least the Giant has a broad range of gears to cover every eventuality.

why do you think i sold it prob could make it work but would need access to the motor settings and thats not going to happen.

Actually I rather like the way the giant delivers power. My old legs don't like spinning much faster than 90 for more than a few seconds so any power above that would be wasted. On the plus side it gives heavy assist low down.. 60 rpms or less.. You know.. The place proper cyclists don't go for fear of injury.

I also found a way to utilise this lack of high cadence assist to great advantage so wouldnt swap if it were pisdible, but that's a conversation for elsewhere..

 

I am genuinely interested in this advantage. And this thread is about what's best for the battery etc, so ....

Is the advantage that you've found if you spin fairly fast, you use less battery power and so extend the range?

 

(and FWIW, my wife seems to prefer the Yamaha motor to Bosch CX in terms of smooth power delivery!)

Last week I was out getting rid of the cobwebs and trying to keep my legs in shape and the first bike to pass me was the Giant. He slowly pulled away but it took him several km and a red light to lose me so I guess he was just below the cutoff at maybe 24 km/h. Had I been on the pedelec he wouldn't have caught me in the first place...

 

I am genuinely interested in this advantage. And this thread is about what's best for the battery etc, so ....

Is the advantage that you've found if you spin fairly fast, you use less battery power and so extend the range?

 

(and FWIW, my wife seems to prefer the Yamaha motor to Bosch CX in terms of smooth power delivery!)

 

I have upped my rpm to about 100-105 thanks to the 44.4v battery and I am much more comfortable. Will get some real hill testing done as soon as the current bought of heavy rain blows over. It has a lot to do with where your comfort zone is and if you spin at the same speed as the motors best power band then yes of course you will help it more and use less battery.

... It has a lot to do with where your comfort zone is and if you spin at the same speed as the motors best power band then yes of course you will help it more and use less battery.

 

So if you spin slower than the motor's optimum speed, then you waste battery power through winding heat losses.

But what happens if you spin your legs FASTER than the motors optimum speed? (so you're way above the power band and the motor is still spinning, but not giving much if any assistance)

I'm not really convinced that the CX is they way to go for a road bike. I'd rather have a conventional chainring size, such as on the Giant.

 

I see the CX as being too restrictive in respect of gearing, and possibly front sprocket wear and tear.

On a long ride at high cadence that small chainring will certainly do the rounds. I would think my big ring shares the load a lot better.

2300 miles on my giant and still wearing the same rings and cassette with no obvious signs of wear. There must be some but it all runs as smooth as silk. Few chains mind..

The Cube Agree looks lovely.

 

http://granfondo-cycling.com/cube-agree-hybrid-c62-worlds-first-real-e-road-bike/

 

 

So if you spin slower than the motor's optimum speed, then you waste battery power through winding heat losses.

But what happens if you spin your legs FASTER than the motors optimum speed? (so you're way above the power band and the motor is still spinning, but not giving much if any assistance)

 

The GSM creates enough back EMF to cut out at about 95 rpm. That is why I have decided to up the voltage a little. Seems to work on short test runs so far but need to try the big hill before making a serious opinion.

I am genuinely interested in this advantage. And this thread is about what's best for the battery etc, so ....

Is the advantage that you've found if you spin fairly fast, you use less battery power and so extend the range?

 

(and FWIW, my wife seems to prefer the Yamaha motor to Bosch CX in terms of smooth power delivery!)

To be fair when this section was set up it was for totally legal emtb bikes and my giant doesn't fall into that catergorie. So pm'd you

So if you spin slower than the motor's optimum speed, then you waste battery power through winding heat losses.

But what happens if you spin your legs FASTER than the motors optimum speed? (so you're way above the power band and the motor is still spinning, but not giving much if any assistance)

you try peddling at 120 rpm for any length of time not going to happen but climbing steep hills or maxing out the rpm for max speed does the same thing nuke the batt so as i cant keep at 120rpm my range on flat is about 25 miles.

 

tho climbing hills you will use more torque and more power but at a slower speed but use even more power and get 10 miles range non stop climb.

The Cube Agree looks lovely.

 

http://granfondo-cycling.com/cube-agree-hybrid-c62-worlds-first-real-e-road-bike/

 

 

I have had a Cube agree. Full carbon snazzy lightweight wheels n stuff. It was my last attempt at a non powered road bike. Lol

So if you spin slower than the motor's optimum speed, then you waste battery power through winding heat losses.

But what happens if you spin your legs FASTER than the motors optimum speed? (so you're way above the power band and the motor is still spinning, but not giving much if any assistance)

If you can spin in excess of 100 without suffering then you are more likely to be able to stay above the cutoff thereby increasing range.

If you can spin in excess of 100 without suffering then you are more likely to be able to stay above the cutoff thereby increasing range.

If you could spin >100rpm for any length of time then you probably wouldn’t need an ebike??

If you could spin >100rpm for any length of time then you probably wouldn’t need an ebike??

Ah well, Turning your legs fast is one thing, getting an old man up 1000ft+ is entirely another. I have been told that if you turn you legs fast enough it will go uphil with little effort.. What utter tosh!!

If you could spin >100rpm for any length of time then you probably wouldn’t need an ebike??

 

I agree with Gubbins 100 rpm isn't hard to maintain for me it is a question of the type of muscle tissue you have in your legs not how much muscle tissue.

 

Having a motor allows me to spin for 4 hours on end whatever the slope. I have done a complicated ride on my motorless trike with slopes that had me down to 30 rpm and I managed about 50 km, with a motor I would do 100 km on the same terrain.