Here is my experience fitting and riding with a Dillinger Bike kit.

 

It was bought to try to encourage me to use my bike for a 10 mile each way commute to work.

 

The donor bike is Trex 6500 mountain bike, bought about 8 years ago and sat gathering dust and scratches in my shed.

 

This is the kit i purchased. http://dillengerelectricbikes.co.uk/electric-bike-kits/best-sellers/street-legal-electric-bike-kit-samsung-power-13ah-by-dillenger.html

 

Wanted road legal or at least not huge power! The idea was to increase my fitness not have an electric motorbike.

 

I choose the above kit in front wheel mode with a frame battery. Should have picked a rack battery as it ended up being too large to fit in the frame. This was me not measuring properly. I just did a quick glance with a tape measure.

 

The kit seems pretty good quality and fitted without too much trouble. Even as my first ever kit. I did open up the controller and add some extra wires as I planned on having lights running from the battery.

 

The cadence sensor was a tight fit and I had to remove all the splines. I did not fit the throttle as I really want to pedal and also I don't think 250w it really enough to just use the throttle except on the flat.

 

Here's some pics of the finished (for now) bike.

 

 

The lights I added were purchased online. I have a front and rear led, the rear flashes red. These were £2.43 including postage! The main front light I have switched and this was about £20. All these lights are 12-85v so no transformers needed. They seem to work well and make no difference to range.

 

 

 

On the subject of range the furthest I've been is about 18 miles in one trip. I still haven't seen the battery meter drop a bar yet. Maybe it doesn't work so well.... time will tell.

 

The spokes in the front wheel were fairly loose on purchase, I tightened these up and after 20 miles they were all loose again! I've now tightened them a lot!

 

I choose a front wheel to keep my 9 speed cassette.

 

Overall I'm pleased with it so far. Takes the sting out of hills and long uphill sections. Does a max of 20mph which is plenty. I usually choose the assistance depending on the speed I want. Eg If I'm climbing up a hill at 10 mph I won't; choose level 5 as the bike will be trying to go 20 mph, I'd choose level 2 so it's trying to do 12 mph. I find this works for me and hopefully reduces stress on the motor. They like to keep spinning really and you can feel them bog down if you really slow on a hill.

Edited January 28, 20188 yr by Gazzgo

Your images don't work.

 

I find it very interesting that they don't mention whether the rear is a free-wheel or cassette version. That's a really important piece of information that's missing. If somebody didn't know that they were going to get a freewheel version, which it most likely is, it's going to really mess up their gearing and bring several other problems for them to sort out.

 

Did they supply any torque arms? Did you fit any? Did you have to file your drop-outs? Is your axle washer sitting in the dimple correctly? No to some of those questions could be pretty serious. there's more to fitting a front motor than just slotting it in and tightening the nuts - as many found out afterwards!

Hi

 

Supplied C washers which I’ve fitted. At such low power advice seems to be torque arm is not required. However I have ordered one anyway.

Drop outs did require filing and yes the washers sit properly thanks.

 

I’ve done about 60 Miles on hilly terrain and seems to work well other than the initial spoke issues.

 

I’ve no doubt tweaks will be made in time though.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks good.

Battery hidden in that top pannier bag is a great idea.

The Rock shoks will probably need a torque arm as they aren't very strong, my Recons drop out both snapped on the front leading edge with a bpm (approx. 400 miles use) and the T/A all but stopped the wheel parting company. I now use a set of crappier Suntour nex forks which are much stronger and better in the D/O area and have been solid with no issues for over 2k miles.

Nice looking job ! I'd definenitley go for the torque arm as well as c washers, bit extra security. Here's how mine worked out:

It's a (D8veh inspired) hand made bracket fitted to the caliper mounts. Better that a jubilee clip round the fork leg. No problems in about 4000 miles.

Nice bracket. May well have a go at something similar myself. Will see how the torque arm I’ve ordered fits. Glad I ordered one by the sounds of it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

By C-washers, do you mean the slotted eccentric C-washers or do you mean the tabbed anti-rotation washers? The most important thing is that the first washer, whichever type it is, sits completely inside the dimple without over-lapping it anywhere.

 

When you fit the torque arm, the same applies. You will need a washer underneath it to bring it clear of the dimple, and that washer mustn't touch the edge of the dimple.

Anti rotation tabbed washers. They do fit inside. I wouldn’t have fitted them otherwise having an awareness of basic engineering. All that force on a a narrow ring of cast alloy would be asking for trouble [emoji15]. Thanks for mentioning it though.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

By C-washers, do you mean the slotted eccentric C-washers or do you mean the tabbed anti-rotation washers? The most important thing is that the first washer, whichever type it is, sits completely inside the dimple without over-lapping it anywhere.

 

When you fit the torque arm, the same applies. You will need a washer underneath it to bring it clear of the dimple, and that washer mustn't touch the edge of the dimple.

 

Torque arm fitted today. Made a small angled bracket so it fits to the caliper mounts

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk