AK runs a gsm with KT, hopefully he can answer any queries !

I think AWOL uses also an external magnet disc with his.

AK runs a gsm with KT, hopefully he can answer any queries !

 

He wants to go back to internal PAS though...

 

I use external because I managed to fry the internal one (learning experience - don't plug things in in the dark when you are tired/impatient). I recently found a replacement PAS board for the BBS0x which looks like it might work in the GSM. I want to go back to internal PAS because I want to clean things up when I move the motor to the trike.

 

Even with the external KT brand PAS and the correct settings on the LCD for KT 12 magnet V2 PAS it will occasionally start the motor if back pedalling when the bike is stationary i.e. no reading from the speed sensor. I guess this might be a bug in the firmware? You do back pedal on an upright to get the pedals in the right position for takeoff at the lights. Riding the trike is different and the PAS kicking in when back pedalling is less of an issue - you don't want to back pedal on a trike! Even at the lights and as your feet are clipped in all the time positioning the pedals is less of an issue.

 

I hope my reply gives the complete picture?

The kit arrived and I had real difficulty removing the bottom bracket. I eventually gave up after contemplating my large lump hammer on the bench and took it to the local bike shop. They had to employ a boilermaker's 3ft spanner to shift it after heating/cooling the bracket, eventually they shifted it.

 

I decided it may be prudent to get them to fit the motor while it was there. The only other difficulty was the gap between the bottom bracket and the motor housing is about 3mm. This is a crucial measurement and is not highlighted anywhere on any site I have seen, least of all Whoosh! The technical drawings supplied do not even show this most important distance-it defies belief.

 

The guide for the rear gearset is attached to all standard bike's bottom bracket here and most are well over 5mm, mine was almost 15mm. There is no way the motor would slide into the bottom bracket housing with this guide. The bike mechanic tried 3 different guides, all had much too high a profile to allow the motor to slide into the bottom bracket. In the end, he said lose the guide altogether, let the bottom bracket decide where the cable goes and we will just hope for the best. Not a very satisfactory outcome, I'm a firm believer in the manufacturer knowing more than I, they do not fit extra parts for the sake of it.

 

 

Here is the fitted motor from underneath

and a series of pictures of the finished article.

 

There are more pictures but this forum has a 10 picture limit per post. I'll put the rest in a separate new post.

Tony.

Here are the rest of the pictures:

I decided it may be prudent to get them to fit the motor while it was there. The only other difficulty was the gap between the bottom bracket and the motor housing is about 3mm. This is a crucial measurement and is not highlighted anywhere on any site I have seen, least of all Whoosh! The technical drawings supplied do not even show this most important distance-it defies belief.

 

I did give a warning in post #6 in the TSDZ2 thread about the cable guide under the bottom bracket:

 

some pictures of the 16.5kgs STDZ2 test bike.

 

One word of warning: if you have cable guide under the bottom bracket like on this Giant, it'll be a little fiddly to fit. Take the rear wheel off before fitting the motor.

 

To anyone contemplating the same kit, you will need to file down the cable guide and shorten it a little bit so it's just tall enough to hold the rear derailleur cable. It is not difficult but time consuming to do, as I did for my Giant. http://wooshbikes.co.uk/2018/tsdz2/giant.jpg

 

Also on the web page, it's a common issue for all bottom bracket motors:

 

Be aware of the physical issues around the bottom bracket:

Like the BBS01B, the TSDZ2 will fit bottom brackets whose shell is 68mm or 73mm long.

However, the space between the motor's bottom bracket and the motor's housing may not be enough to accomodate your cable guide.

If your bike has one mounted under the bottom bracket shell, please email us a picture for advice.

Also, if your bike has a side kickstand mounted close to or right behind the bottom bracket, please email us a picture for advice.

http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?cdkit#tsdz2

Edited January 14, 20197 yr by Woosh

I did give a warning in post #6 in the TSDZ2 thread about the cable guide under the bottom bracket:

 

 

 

To anyone contemplating the same kit, you will need to file down the cable guide and shorten it a little bit so it's just tall enough to hold the rear derailleur cable. It is not difficult but time consuming to do, as I did for my Giant. http://wooshbikes.co.uk/2018/tsdz2/giant.jpg

 

Also on the web page, it's a common issue for all bottom bracket motors:

 

Be aware of the physical issues around the bottom bracket:

Like the BBS01B, the TSDZ2 will fit bottom brackets whose shell is 68mm or 73mm long.

However, the space between the motor's bottom bracket and the motor's housing may not be enough to accomodate your cable guide.

If your bike has one mounted under the bottom bracket shell, please email us a picture for advice.

Also, if your bike has a side kickstand mounted close to or right behind the bottom bracket, please email us a picture for advice.

http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?cdkit#tsdz2

 

My humble apologies to you guys at Whoosh, when I read this at the time I did not know this related to the underside of the bottom bracket (I had no idea what a bottom bracket was!) where the gear cable is threaded, might I suggest a couple of pictures to illustrate to make it easier for others? Also advise new purchasers to upend the bike so they can see for themselves.

might I suggest a couple of pictures to illustrate to make it easier for others? Also advise new purchasers to upend the bike so they can see for themselves.

will do Tony.

ok Guys, I have the new Whoosh kit all fitted and working. It's a Tongsheng 48V 250W TSDZ2 kit with new VLCD5.

 

As in my previous post I had difficulty with the rear derailleur bottom bracket guide. I decided to remove the motor again and see what I could fabricate to replace the guide which had been discarded by the bike mechanic. I searched through his collection of old dumped bikes at the back of the shop and found a couple which were of a much smaller profile than the original.

I upended the bike and set to work with my dremel.

3/4 of an hour later, I had finally removed enough material to allow the motor to fit and still left enough material for the guide to do it's job.

I feel much happier now that the guide is back in place.

 

Road test. It has been really shitty weather here in Bournemouth for the last few days, but I was impatient to try the bike and yesterday gave it a bit of a run. It wasn't a hard rain just spits and spots. I needed some stuff from the supermarket so I headed off to our local shopping centre, Castlepoint, just 4 miles away. The route from the Bournemouth University is very urban for most of the way, with a little bit of parkland at Redhill, mostly on the flat. The local council has just spent 2 years and millions of taxpayers money with traffic holdups for years putting in new cycleways along this route, so I thought I'd give it a go. In the 4 miles I spotted only one other cyclist going the other way.

 

The bike performed flawlessly, everything worked as it should, and the motor was virtually silent. I haven't tweaked anything, other than setting the wheel size to 700. There is one slight gradient on the return journey and I did not even need to change gears. The motor responded beautifully to my slight increase in pedal effort and I just glided up this slight incline. There was also a bit of a breeze, about 15mph against me on this gradient.

 

So far I have been very impressed, It has performed just as expected, did I mention how silent it is?

 

When the weather improves I will take it to the town centre and try my luck at the infamous Richmond Hill.

I can't believe our idiot council actually put a cycle lane up this hill. I have never seen any cyclist attempt it, I certainly wouldn't without assist. In the old days of trolley buses the conductors made every passenger get off and walk up this hill because the bus just wouldn't make it with a full complement of passengers.

My Whoosh Sunbear had a bit of difficulty up this hill, my Eagle Freego wouldn't even look at it.

I will report back after my attempt with this kit.

The weather was beautiful yesterday but cold. A family birthday luncheon precluded me from going on the bike, although I was looking out of the window, chafing at the bit.

Today really cold wind and no sun, but managed to get into town and attempted the Richmond Hill climb.

Very impressed, I put it in the lowest gear and the highest assist level and she just glided up the hill with just a whisper of motor noise, effortlessly at 6mph with me making a token effort at pedalling just to show willing.

 

With these results so far I have no hesitation in recommending this kit. We will have to see what it is like in a year's time to be absolutely sure.

Down through the Bournemouth Gardens cycle paths to Bournemouth Pier, then along to Sandbanks. Beautiful day, sunny and slight breeze. It's too silent and with all the pedestrians in the way bell working overtime, just tootling along with no assist for most of the way, 5-6mph. Others have complained the TSDZ2 motor is noisy, maybe that is from the earlier production models, or perhaps I just scored a silent one.

 

I rather think I'll just leave it as stock for a year or so, then when the warranty runs out get an LCD3 and tinker with the firmware. I think the open-source firmware has settings which extend battery life and is kinder to the motor, if Whoosh can supply the LCD 3 so much the better.

the TSDZ2 can only use with Tongsheng LCD: VLCD4, VLCD5, VLCD6 and XH18.

They are programmed to speak the same protocol.

All the TSDZ2 are fairly quiet, a little quieter than the GSM and BBS01 anyway.