Hello. I want to buy a conversion kit from eBay. 1000w rear hub 48 v battery. LCD screen. The issue I'm having is the connectors on the parts actually matching. I've noticed that there are various types. So my question is does anyone know what will work together and from what seller. I have a budget of £400 for the parts.

 

Many thanks

You're going to have a lot more problems than connectors.

 

£400 isn't enough to buy a kit and a battery that can supply 1000w. The cheap 48v batteries can't provide enough current. Expect to pay around £350 for the battery alone. You'll have to pay around £50 duty, etc, if you buy one from China. If you're looking at ebay, type 48v 1000w battery into the search, not just 48v.

 

You will also need to factor in decent hydraulic disc brakes, which means rotors as well as calipers and levers. When you're travelling at 30 mph with a 1000w kit on your bike, it takes 5 times as much energy to stop your bike compared with travelling at 15 mph on a normal bike. Pedal your bike at 15 mph, then see how much effort it takes to stop quickly, then multiply that by 5 to get an idea of what's involved.

 

Have you include the price of two torque arms, which will also be necessary?

 

To answer your question, you will always need to change/add connectors to your battery unless you buy the whole kit, including the battery, from the same supplier and you confirm with them that they have matching connectors, which they often don't.

 

Is it time for a new plan? Sorry if I spoilt your dream, but life isn't always simple.

Edited November 3, 20196 yr by vfr400

You're going to have a lot more problems than connectors.

 

£400 isn't enough to buy a kit and a battery that can supply 1000w. The cheap 48v batteries can't provide enough current. Expect to pay around £350 for the battery alone. You'll have to pay around £50 duty, etc, if you buy one from China. If you're looking at ebay, type 48v 1000w battery into the search, not just 48v.

 

You will also need to factor in decent hydraulic disc brakes, which means rotors as well as calipers and levers. When you're travelling at 30 mph with a 1000w kit on your bike, it takes 5 times as much energy to stop your bike compared with travelling at 15 mph on a normal bike. Pedal your bike at 15 mph, then see how much effort it takes to stop quickly, then multiply that by 5 to get an idea of what's involved.

 

Have you include the price of two torque arms, which will also be necessary?

 

To answer your question, you will always need to change/add connectors to your battery unless you buy the whole kit, including the battery, from the same supplier and you confirm with them that they have matching connectors, which they often don't.

 

Is it time for a new plan? Sorry if i spoilt your dream, but life isn't always simple.

Thanks for the information. I did type in 48v 1000v and there are some for £220 they are 12.5ah. What would you recommend? is this not sufficient then? And the 1000w hubs come in below £200. I do understand that sometimes paying little more for higher quality components is a better option. As for the disc brakes they will be on the doner bike I use. The budget of around £400 was just for battery and hub. So am I looking more at £550?

 

Kind regards

The 1000w are illegal for use except on private land with no public access. Also they will be direct drive and get through battery really quickly, so extra reason to need expensive batteries.

The 1000w are illegal for use except on private land with no public access. Also they will be direct drive and get through battery really quickly, so extra reason to need expensive batteries.

Thanks I know the law on this. I found this company that ship from Germany.

 

https://www.uppbattery.com/ship-from-germany-52v-20ah-triangle-case-lithium-ion-battery-pack-with-3a-charger-p0953.html

 

Seems reasonable. Will any of those batteries be sufficient. Have you got any recommendations?

 

All the best

Thanks for the information. I did type in 48v 1000v and there are some for £220 they are 12.5ah. What would you recommend? is this not sufficient then? And the 1000w hubs come in below £200. I do understand that sometimes paying little more for higher quality components is a better option. As for the disc brakes they will be on the doner bike I use. The budget of around £400 was just for battery and hub. So am I looking more at £550?

 

Kind regards

 

The problem with buying a cheap direct drive kit is they are very power hungry indeed. Forget the 1000w moniker. Most 250w nominal legal hubs can put out at least 500w and many 800w. Most are geared and use battery at lower amps

 

In the same manner one 12ah battery is not the same as another 12ah battery. That's just how much is in the tank

 

How quickly that 12ah can be delivered is very important too. That depends on the actual cell specification and the BMS inside. Cheap chinese cells will perform badly and die quickly on what you are planning. You need a quality celled battery with BMS capable of giving high amps (not amp hours). These are expensive at c400 quid

 

This is what VFR is telling you

 

A better way to go about this is tell us what you want to achieve, on what terrain, mileage, your weight and so forth.

 

This isnt about quality but matching the requiremets of the motor to the battery. Do it wrong and you will be chucking money in the bin!

The problem with buying a cheap direct drive kit is they are very power hungry indeed. Forget the 1000w moniker. Most 250w nominal legal hubs can put out at least 500w and many 800w. Most are geared and use battery at lower amps

 

In the same manner one 12ah battery is not the same as another 12ah battery. That's just how much is in the tank

 

How quickly that 12ah can be delivered is very important too. That depends on the actual cell specification and the BMS inside. Cheap chinese cells will perform badly and die quickly on what you are planning. You need a quality celled battery with BMS capable of giving high amps (not amp hours). These are expensive at c400 quid

 

This is what VFR is telling you

 

A better way to go about this is tell us what you want to achieve, on what terrain, mileage, your weight and so forth.

 

This isnt about quality but matching the requiremets of the motor to the battery. Do it wrong and you will be chucking money in the bin!

 

[/quote.

 

Thanks. I'm 19 stone. I just want a little bit more power than I currently have at the moment. I have a 500w conversion with a 36v battery which does ok. I ride to work about 11 miles round trip. It will get up to 19mph. But struggles on hills. So I'm not looking for mega long range or mega speed. Just a little boost in speed and climbing hills. Any help is appreciated as I realize the minefield the internet is with cheap kits.

can you tell us exactly what motor, controller and battery you have. There are probably better and cheaper solutions than that 1000w kit.

 

The problem with those 100W kits is that they're designed for continuous 30 mph. if you run them at normal speeds, they're inefficient and overheat. With your weight, I can't see one lasting very long before something burns. You need a slow high torque solution.

The problem with buying a cheap direct drive kit is they are very power hungry indeed. Forget the 1000w moniker. Most 250w nominal legal hubs can put out at least 500w and many 800w. Most are geared and use battery at lower amps

 

In the same manner one 12ah battery is not the same as another 12ah battery. That's just how much is in the tank

 

How quickly that 12ah can be delivered is very important too. That depends on the actual cell specification and the BMS inside. Cheap chinese cells will perform badly and die quickly on what you are planning. You need a quality celled battery with BMS capable of giving high amps (not amp hours). These are expensive at c400 quid

 

This is what VFR is telling you

 

A better way to go about this is tell us what you want to achieve, on what terrain, mileage, your weight and so forth.

 

This isnt about quality but matching the requiremets of the motor to the battery. Do it wrong and you will be chucking money in the bin!

So would it

can you tell us exactly what motor, controller and battery you have. There are probably better and cheaper solutions than that 1000w kit.

 

The problem with those 100W kits is that they're designed for continuous 30 mph. if you run them at normal speeds, they're inefficient and overheat. With your weight, I can't see one lasting very long before something burns. You need a slow high torque solution.

 

I have no idea what make of wheel ,battery, controller I have. All I know that it's a 500w hub and 36v 10a battery I think. It was a conversion kit that was fitted by a company that are no longer trading!

Show us photos.

Show us photos.

I appreciate your time. But I can't see how showing you a picture of my hub and battery will help. I've told you the specification of them. You won't get more information from a black battery and black hub. They all look the same!

I appreciate your time. But I can't see how showing you a picture of my hub and battery will help. I've told you the specification of them. You won't get more information from a black battery and black hub. They all look the same!

 

Because he is an expert. They look the same to you

I'm not even going to bother....

So is an 'Esteemed Pedelecer' better than an 'expert' pedelecer or is it just the way one talks on the Forum these days?

They all look the same to me too, similar even to our designs here at NASA for getting our lads up and back home from the space station on the cheap. Chinese astronauts are lighter in general too, though many cant play the guitar so good.

So is an 'Esteemed Pedelecer' better than an 'expert' pedelecer or is it just the way one talks on the Forum these days?

They all look the same to me too, similar even to our designs here at NASA for getting our lads up and back home from the space station on the cheap. Chinese astronauts are lighter in general too, though many cant play the guitar so good.

Long time, no see. Welcome back. I used to like your posts. I think esteemed pedelecer is about right for you.

Why thank you Sir you are too kind. But esteem is a word I am not worthy and pedelecer not a word at all.

I appreciate your time. But I can't see how showing you a picture of my hub and battery will help. I've told you the specification of them. You won't get more information from a black battery and black hub. They all look the same!

 

 

They really don't all look the same, and there is much information to be had from photos. If you don't want to stick out your tongue for doctor, fine. If you don't think people here know anything useful, you're wrong, but fine. But please don't tell doctor that there's no point in sticking it out because all tongues look the same. That's just exasperating.

They really don't all look the same, and there is much information to be had from photos. If you don't want to stick out your tongue for doctor, fine. If you don't think people here know anything useful, you're wrong, but fine. But please don't tell doctor that there's no point in sticking it out because all tongues look the same. That's just exasperating.

I'm sorry if I came across as dismissive. I did come here for advice. I will stick my tongue out later!

Show us photos.

OK, so it's one of those 500W direct drive motor kits. That explains the lack of climbing ability. What you need is a 500w geared motor, ideally running at 48v, but the complete kit would cost around £600 to £700. I'm guessing that you have a 22 amp controller and a battery capable of 25 amps.

 

I think you have two options. Option 1 is a 36V Xiongda 2- speed motor kit, which will cost about £250. The kit includes the motor, controller, PAS, throttle an LCD. You have to buy your own rim and spokes and lace the wheel yourself. That can be done yourself for £30. If you can find a bike shop to do it for you, they charge about £30 to £50 labour. If they provide the rim and spokes, probably £100. The Xiongda motor isn't particularly powerful, but when you come to a hill, it automatically changes down to a lower gear and winches you up at about 6 mph. The controller is only 15 amps, but a blob of solder on the shunt will increase it to around 18 amps to give more all-round performance.

 

Option 2 is a 500W Bafang BPM motor. It's a brute force approach. One of these motors at 36v and 30 amps or 48v and 20 amps will drag you up any hill. If you get one of these, you could try it with your existing controller and battery. Again, a small blob of solder on the shunt in your controller will increase the current to around 25 amps. That will give you a lot more climbing power than you have now. If you find that you still need more, you can replace your battery and controller with 48v ones at a later date, which will give you more power and a better control system. The motor will cost around £250 to £300 ready laced.

 

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike/585-16219-bafang-bpm2-36v500w-rear-driving-e-bike-motor-wheel-ebike-kit.html#/213-rpm-201

 

Make sure you tick 201 rpm. They have a nasty habit of sensing out sensor less versions, so ask them by email if it has hall sensors, then write in the special notes for your order that it must be with hall sensors.

 

 

Out of the two options, I prefer option 2 because you get a simple bolt-in solution that will probably give you what you need. Top speed will be around 15 mph. If you go up to 48v later, the speed will go up to 22 mph and you get 33% more climbing power, but that will cost around £400 extra. The motors don't care about voltage. The 48v 260 rpm version is identical to the 36v 201 rpm in all respects except the marking.

 

The advantage of option 1 is that it's completely legal.

OK, so it's one of those 500W direct drive motor kits. That explains the lack of climbing ability. What you need is a 500w geared motor, ideally running at 48v, but the complete kit would cost around £600 to £700. I'm guessing that you have a 22 amp controller and a battery capable of 25 amps.

 

I think you have two options. Option 1 is a 36V Xiongda 2- speed motor kit, which will cost about £250. The kit includes the motor, controller, PAS, throttle an LCD. You have to buy your own rim and spokes and lace the wheel yourself. That can be done yourself for £30. If you can find a bike shop to do it for you, they charge about £30 to £50 labour. If they provide the rim and spokes, probably £100. The Xiongda motor isn't particularly powerful, but when you come to a hill, it automatically changes down to a lower gear and winches you up at about 6 mph. The controller is only 15 amps, but a blob of solder on the shunt will increase it to around 18 amps to give more all-round performance.

 

Option 2 is a 500W Bafang BPM motor. It's a brute force approach. One of these motors at 36v and 30 amps or 48v and 20 amps will drag you up any hill. If you get one of these, you could try it with your existing controller and battery. Again, a small blob of solder on the shunt in your controller will increase the current to around 25 amps. That will give you a lot more climbing power than you have now. If you find that you still need more, you can replace your battery and controller with 48v ones at a later date, which will give you more power and a better control system. The motor will cost around £250 to £300 ready laced.

 

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike/585-16219-bafang-bpm2-36v500w-rear-driving-e-bike-motor-wheel-ebike-kit.html#/213-rpm-201

 

Make sure you tick 201 rpm. They have a nasty habit of sensing out sensor less versions, so ask them by email if it has hall sensors, then write in the special notes for your order that it must be with hall sensors.

 

 

Out of the two options, I prefer option 2 because you get a simple bolt-in solution that will probably give you what you need. Top speed will be around 15 mph. If you go up to 48v later, the speed will go up to 22 mph and you get 33% more climbing power, but that will cost around £400 extra. The motors don't care about voltage. The 48v 260 rpm version is identical to the 36v 201 rpm in all respects except the marking.

 

The advantage of option 1 is that it's completely legal.

Thank you very much for the information. Its much appreciated. I've never thought about a geared hub, So does that mean that if I use a geared hub I don't need to have any other gears installed on the bike like I do at the moment! Both options sound great for commuting. If you was to recommend something more powerful for off-road use what would I be looking at then.

A geared hub is a hub with a fixed reduction ratio inside. The Bafang BPM has 5:1. That gives a 5 times torque multiplier to the motor, which is why this motor, though a bit smaller than your present one, can winch you up hills much better. geared motors nearly always have a clutch as well, which disengages the motor when free-wheeling or when you pedal faster than what the motor goes, so it's much more pleasant. The Xiongda has a clever mechanism inside that switches the reduction from 1: 4.4 to 1 :7.8. It does it with a doble clutch and reversing direction. all done automatically by the controller.

 

Both motors have the threaded boss to screw on your freewheel gear-set, just like your present one. I's get a DNP 7-speed freewheel to go on it because you get a higher top gear.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32733706055.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.33336004ML1F1R&algo_pvid=4fd3bd72-aeb3-48a6-8a02-b64ee28d4404&algo_expid=4fd3bd72-aeb3-48a6-8a02-b64ee28d4404-7&btsid=6a49045c-e73c-483e-a671-3e60d457f5e5&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_7,searchweb201603_55

 

How many speeds on your existing motor and does your shifting work?

Edited November 4, 20196 yr by vfr400

Thank you very much for the information. Its much appreciated. I've never thought about a geared hub, So does that mean that if I use a geared hub I don't need to have any other gears installed on the bike like I do at the moment! Both options sound great for commuting. If you was to recommend something more powerful for off-road use what would I be looking at then.

 

VFR has answered in detail but on a higher level...no, a geared motor doesn't replace actual gears. What it does, in real terms, is reduce your demand on your battery and give you a free wheel ability ie no or little drag when pedaling without power.

A geared hub is a hub with a fixed reduction ratio inside. The Bafang BPM has 5:1. That gives a 5 times torque multiplier to the motor, which is why this motor, though a bit smaller than your present one, can winch you up hills much better. geared motors nearly always have a clutch as well, which disengages the motor when free-wheeling or when you pedal faster than what the motor goes, so it's much more pleasant. The Xiongda has a clever mechanism inside that switches the reduction from 1: 4.4 to 1 :7.8. It does it with a doble clutch and reversing direction. all done automatically by the controller.

 

Both motors have the threaded boss to screw on your freewheel gear-set, just like your present one. I's get a DNP 7-speed freewheel to go on it because you get a higher top gear.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32733706055.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.33336004ML1F1R&algo_pvid=4fd3bd72-aeb3-48a6-8a02-b64ee28d4404&algo_expid=4fd3bd72-aeb3-48a6-8a02-b64ee28d4404-7&btsid=6a49045c-e73c-483e-a671-3e60d457f5e5&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_7,searchweb201603_55

 

How many speeds on your existing motor and does your shifting work?

It has 7 on the back and 3 on the front. The original rear had 8 so 2 to 8 work I think. I only currently use a few of the top gears.