Trust me, they're too narrow to be any use on a bicycle. I bought one, so I know.

 

 

I bought one with a fat lens that had a zoom capability that cast a good beam width, but it was a bit pointless, because you always wanted it on max width. The other annoying thing was that it had a single integrated 18650 cell at right angles to the lamp, so it was awkward on the handlebars...also, it wasn't that bright.

 

There is a lot of rubbish out there. If you see something you like the look of Bikes4two, post it on here, someone here probably will have bought on before and can give you a review, or at least an opinion (or three!).

I bought one with a fat lens that had a zoom capability that cast a good beam width, but it was a bit pointless, because you always wanted it on max width. The other annoying thing was that it had a single integrated 18650 cell at right angles to the lamp, so it was awkward on the handlebars...also, it wasn't that bright.

 

There is a lot of rubbish out there. If you see something you like the look of Bikes4two, post it on here, someone here probably will have bought on before and can give you a review, or at least an opinion (or three!).

That's a different type. I was talking about the 60v ones with a buck converter in them and a massive bulbous lens on the front:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-30W-CREE-U2-LED-Motorcycle-Spotlight-DRL-Driving-Fog-Lamp-Head-Light-12V-60V/192876698813?hash=item2ce858dcbd:g:dQAAAOSwHStb7Tqz

That's a different type. I was talking about the 60v ones with a buck converter in them and a massive bulbous lens on the front:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-30W-CREE-U2-LED-Motorcycle-Spotlight-DRL-Driving-Fog-Lamp-Head-Light-12V-60V/192876698813?hash=item2ce858dcbd:g:dQAAAOSwHStb7Tqz

 

Ah I see. Yes, no adjustment possible.

For wired lights this type 100 lux I find excellent, the beam not overly wide but does light up your path nicely / very well, they are supposedly stvzo compliant.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32856825116.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.650a2e0e2hgloR

For wired lights this type 100 lux I find excellent, the beam not overly wide but does light up your path nicely / very well, they are supposedly stvzo compliant.

 

Thanks [mention=9614]Nealh[/mention] - that's just the sort of unit I was looking for - order placed - hopefully it'll arrive before Boris or Xi Jinping fall out too much. I don't have a Busch and Muller unit to compare it with though (and I'm not likely to either ).

 

And the little red jobbie for the rear pannier.

 

 

For wired lights this type 100 lux I find excellent, the beam not overly wide but does light up your path nicely / very well, they are supposedly stvzo compliant.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32856825116.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.650a2e0e2hgloR

⁹Thats what I have fitted to my suspension bridge and find very adequate.

Thanks [mention=9614]Nealh[/mention] - that's just the sort of unit I was looking for - order placed - hopefully it'll arrive before Boris or Xi Jinping fall out too much. I don't have a Busch and Muller unit to compare it with though (and I'm not likely to either ).

 

And the little red jobbie for the rear pannier.

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="37347]37347[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="37348]37348[/ATTACH]

 

The rear light is excellent when it is dull/dark.

The 100 lux front I got was with the horn feature as well, so I use a Wuxing handle bar light/horn switch.

I think what vfr was getting at is that when it gets wet, if the leads are not well insulated you could get a conducting path along the outside of the resistor.

 

However, my biggest concern is the amount of heat generated in a small space. It must get quite hot and I wouldn't like to touch it, or brush against it by accident.

 

Dropping resistors are ok for small indicator LEDs, but for high power lighting LEDs it's not a great solution, when 6 to 60V input bike lights are so readily available at low cost.

 

BTW Andy, do you think you could find a way of posting that is not so confrontational? Everyone has their own views and opinions, but for a forum to work properly, people need to express their opinions in a way that is not aggressive, confrontational or trying to score points off of others.

 

We want to encourage as many people as possible to get into e-bikes and if they go on a forum where people are tearing chunks out of each other, it is completely counter productive. Many people (especially women) will be put off posting if they see this kind of behaviour for fear that their posts will be torn apart by others.

 

There are ways of stating your points without upsetting others. I don't always get it right, but I do my best to try to accommodate the views of others and agree to disagree, rather than cause a pointless escalation.

Andy is incapable of being civil, he is a sad lonely man who gets his kicks out of insulting people and enjoying the carnage he creates.

If he spoke to someone like this in a pub. it would be the last time he done it.

Any decent moderator would have banned this troll by now.

So in the absence of any mods Andy is best ignored.

I have one of those twin cree set-ups, if I point the lights up to the sky on a cloudy night it lights up the clouds .. gets red hot too the whole light is one big alloy heat sink. Daft really but the only thing that matches it are vehicle LED headlights, now I can dazzle em back !

Current is 2a max per pin & 60 vdc.

 

Hi [mention=9614]Nealh[/mention] , sorry to barge in but also looking at getting a KT 17A to run at 36v with two light outputs. One from a 9pin 1t5 julet cable to front and a separate julet 2pin from the box.

Is the 2a max a standard in KT controllers per light output? Also, is this drawn from the total controller current or is it a passthrough from battery?

It seems it would be managed by controller but in this case if I'm in PAS6 and turn on both lights I should expect in best case scenario a current drop of max 2x 2a. Is this right?

 

Thanks for your help!

Hi [mention=9614]Nealh[/mention] , sorry to barge in but also looking at getting a KT 17A to run at 36v with two light outputs. One from a 9pin 1t5 julet cable to front and a separate julet 2pin from the box.

Is the 2a max a standard in KT controllers per light output? Also, is this drawn from the total controller current or is it a passthrough from battery?

It seems it would be managed by controller but in this case if I'm in PAS6 and turn on both lights I should expect in best case scenario a current drop of max 2x 2a. Is this right?

 

Thanks for your help!

 

The current drawn is the rating of the Julet pin outs/wiring as in the specs from Julet. from what I have see the controller current output for lights is less and maybe only about 1a.

The dedicated light output afaik runs from a separate line with some KT's also having a separate smaller pcb .

Edited August 17, 20205 yr by Nealh

The current drawn is the rating of the Julet pin outs/wiring as in the specs from Julet. from what I have see the controller current output for lights is less and maybe only about 1a.

The dedicated light output afaik runs from a separate line with some KT's also having a separate smaller pcb .

 

Thanks [mention=9614]Nealh[/mention] ! Didn't know julet wires specs. I'm asking the lights company (Contec) as well for current draw specs. Both front and rear run at 6-48v. Front light is supposedly 120 lumens (6-48v) so I'm guessing around 5w / 800mA and I should be fine. It's great to know it's a separate power line! Can't wait to have it all in one simple cable at a push of one single button

The current drawn is the rating of the Julet pin outs/wiring as in the specs from Julet. from what I have see the controller current output for lights is less and maybe only about 1a.

The dedicated light output afaik runs from a separate line with some KT's also having a separate smaller pcb .

 

Hey [mention=9614]Nealh[/mention],

hope you're feeling better today from the incident!

 

So today got the controller and I'm a bit scared of plugging the lights without some testing before. There are two outputs from controller (on board these are brown and yellow wire) It seems the yellow wire only goes through a 51kΩ smd resistor.

 

[Edited]

My battery is 36v and just measured the lights with a multimeter on 200mA, front light is continuous 95.6mA, rear light has a stop function which doubles LED's so peaks at 19mA +/- and stays continuous on regular one led at 5.6 mA.

 

I'm trying to figure this out before connecting it and burning the circuit

 

Can any one help figure out if this circuit can hold over 100mA at peak?

Would it be 100mA per output or for both?

Edited September 8, 20205 yr by MSG76

Having successfully installed my new controller and KT-LCD5 display, I'm exploring the 'Light Output' connection on the controller.

 

It's a 2-pin red Julet connector and when the 'lights on' function is activated from the LCD5 display, the 2 pins have the main battery voltage present.

 

• Now, what exactly can you do with this output?
  
• The physical pin size is very small so one can't imagine much current can be passed (so what are the current limitations of the connector and indeed the controller?),
  
• and what lighting systems use such a (relatively) high voltage?
  
• Do you use the output to switch something else via a relay or other circuit?
  

So I'd be very interested to know what others might use this particular output for?

 

Many thanks in anticipation, cheers, B4t

[ATTACH type=full" alt="37266]37266[/ATTACH]

 

 

If you want my advice I was having the same questions. And specially wanting to know how to go about it before burning ny lights or the controller circuit.

 

When you open the box search for the circuit by following the cathode. Mine had a small pcb with a 510 Ohm smd resistor regulating the output voltage.

I emailed KT which confirmed the pcb only could output 70mA, which is nothing. I soldered a 100 Ohm 5W ceramic resistor in parallel and just tested it today. It works and was outputting 106mA easily.

 

If you want to lower voltage at some point can always build a voltage divider circuit with two equal value resistors. It's very easy!

 

Hope it goes well. Best of luck!

Thanks for that info [mention=27403]MSG76[/mention] - although I've now bought the front and rear lights, I've yet to install them - before I do, 'll check what current each light draws and maybe modify the PCB if needed.

Thanks for that info [mention=27403]MSG76[/mention] - although I've now bought the front and rear lights, I've yet to install them - before I do, 'll check what current each light draws and maybe modify the PCB if needed.

 

Glad I could help! But if you want to lower resistance to the max use a similar value resistor. In my case the 510 is a 51Ω, if I had soldered another 51Ω in parallel resistance would decrease by half thus increasing current by double.

Make sure to choose resistors of 1Watt or above

• Well, today as a quick check, I connected up my recently purchased front light to the 2-pin 'light output' connection from the KT controller.
  
• The voltage on the connector without the light connected was 40.5v but once the light was powered up, the voltage dropped to just 5.5v, which given the observations made by [mention=27403]MSG76[/mention] above, wasn't too much of a suprise.
  
• A disappointment though, in that the 'light output' connection has limited use.
  
• I've yet to determine what current the rear light draws, but I can see that I am going to have to make up a simple circuit that uses the 'light output' to trigger a relay or Mosfet (or similar) to control a higher powered lighting circuit.
  
• Before I break out my Vero board, I'm wondering if there is something already made out there like a simple solid state relay working around 36v-40v to take a 1A load? (eBay here I come).
  
• So anyone with useful pointers or ideas on a simple solution to this lighting issue, I'd be very pleased to hear about them.
  

Cheers, B4t

 

 

Edited September 22, 20205 yr by Bikes4two

You can measure the current if your multimeter allows it to. It should have another red plug (fused or not) and an Ω or Amp setting. Connect the negative and intercept the positive with red lead onto power supply lead and negative on the light positive lead. This will read current.

You can also always try something similar to this, a dc to dc step down isolated converter which will give you plenty of current as lights seem to be multi-voltage:

https://www.meanwelldirect.co.uk/products/10w-dc-dc-regulated-single-output-converter/

 

Best of luck!

Thanks for that [mention=27403]MSG76[/mention] - I'm fine with basic electronics so I understand what you are saying about measuring the current for each of the lights that I have.

 

For me, I will want to utilise the KT Controller 'light output' to switch the lights on and off via the KT-LCD5 display function.

 

The SSR option with an additional fuse is my favoured route at the moment. There are plenty of SSR offerings on ebay and Ali Express for instance - it'll be a case of choosing something that is easy to install in the space(s) that I have.

understand. space was a constraint for me as well

I can't understand why you would want to do all that when you can connect the lights directly to the battery with a simple switch.

 

It might be worth checking that the transistor in the controller is still switching before you do anything. They normally blow when you connect a light like that.

My KT 6 fet 17 & 20a has a dedicated horn & lighting wire connections, it shows either 36 or 48v depending on the battery used. The 100 lux front light I have from Onature/Aliexpress with an internal step down converter works with no issues as does a wired 36v rear light, they are both wired in parallel and simply work off a Wuxing light switch n the handle bars.

Another headlight option for you - I have the 16 led version of this wired direct into the 36v battery:

 

 

US $1.96 36％ Off | VooVoo Motorcycle LED Headlight Scooter ATV Moto Headlamp Spotlight 12V LED 6500K Motorbike Spot Head Light Working Lamp DRL

https://a.aliexpress.com/_BPoDBb

 

Car headlight level of brightness!

Thanks for the feedback [mention=4809]vfr400[/mention]

 

I can't understand why you would want to do all that when you can connect the lights directly to the battery with a simple switch.

 

Fair comment for those who like or need to keep things absolutely simple.

 

However, I would prefer to use the KT LCD5 built-in light switching function rather than find a suitable switch and run unnecessary cables from/to the switch/battery (and I'd only connect to the battery via a suitable fuse, not directly).

 

More effort required maybe, but if I get my 'design' right using minimal components (now looking at a single MOSFET as a switch rather than an SSR) that can be fitted inside my rack mounted battery box with the minimum of additinal wiring, that will be a far neater solution IMHO.

 

It might be worth checking that the transistor in the controller is still switching before you do anything. They normally blow when you connect a light like that.

I seem to have got away with that - clearly the 510 ohm current limiting resistor referred to by [mention=27403]MSG76[/mention] has saved the day.

Thanks for the feedback [mention=4809]vfr400[/mention]

 

 

 

However, I would prefer to use the KT LCD5 built-in light switching function rather than find a suitable switch and run unnecessary cables from/to the switch/battery (and I'd only connect to the battery via a suitable fuse, not directly).

 

More effort required maybe, but if I get my 'design' right using minimal components (now looking at a single MOSFET as a switch rather than an SSR) that can be fitted inside my rack mounted battery box with the minimum of additinal wiring, that will be a far neater

Your logic seems flawed to me. You concept is to use the switch in the LCD to work another switch to operate the light. That requires extra wiring over what an independent switch would require so it's not minimal. You will still need to run cables from/to the switch/battery. The only difference is that it's an electronically operated switch instead of a manual one.

 

The only way it would make sense to me is if you were able to run the lights directly from the controller, but the power provided isn't sufficient to run a decent headlight