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Wisper 705SE faults

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Hi all I am new here and am well impressed by this forum.

I bought 2 new Wisper 705SEs at the end of last year for my wife and myself. They were bought online many miles from our Cornwall home, major mistake as warranty repairs have to be done by supplier!!

In general they are great but we have had some niggley faults. The first showed up almost immediately on both bikes, that of squeaky noisy brakes. Nothing I could do would cure it so Wisper very efficiently sent out 2 sets of new different discs and pads, which I fitted, and they have cured the problem. It does beg the question why were the bike manufactured with naff brakes?

After 550 miles now I have a problem with the intermittent sudden loss of power on one of the bikes which was cured by switching all off and on again. However yesterday the reswitching failed to work but when I twisted the hand throttle there was a grinding strange noise from the control box in front of the battery.

I was contemplating a long hilly ride home but when I applied the front brake lever power was restored and I got home. Now was that just a coincidence or is there a linkup?

If there is a fault with the control box I have the job of packing it up and sending it back to the online supplier. I am quite capable of fixing things, I changed all the discs and pads so is it a big job fitting a new control box assuming Wisper would supply me with one?

Incidentally I attach a photo showing the bikes with the Topeak Trunk Bag DXPs. They are the model that does not have the combined track mounting which will not fit the Wisper carrier so they are attached with the velcro tabs backed up with cable ties. We modified the fold down panniers to clip into the Wisper luggage strap fastenings on the frame.

Looking forward to hearing from someone!

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The grinding noise is when the motor controller loses sync with the motor. there are a number of reasons why that can happen, but the most common is a bad connection to the motor. have a look at the motor connector that's about 10" from the axle. There's a line that shows how far in it has to go. Make sure it's all the way to the line. Even 1 mm short can cause your problem.
  • Author
Thank you for the speedy response. I have made sure the connector has not come apart at all but it is a major job disconnecting and electrolubing it, see attached. And its under warranty. I am surprised the connector is in such a vulnerable inaccessible place!

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You only have to make sure that it's in as far as the line. Either it is or isn't. You can see that by looking at it. I don't know why you guys have to make something so simple difficult.

As I said it is fully together, simples!

Sorry, my dementia must be getting the better of me. Can you put my mind at rest by showing me where?

Squeaky brake noise can be down to contamination or glazed pads even new ones need bedding in. Isopropanol/alcohol cleaner is good to wiper the disc over with and the pad surface. Alternately with the pads one can wash the surface with w/up liquid and then give the surface a light abrasion with sandpaper, often grime etc from road use can affect pads and the surface glazes over to a nice hard shine so they sometimes need if you like priming again.

This has recently occurred on my town/commute bike and now all is running quieter again.

You are best to remove the motor connector from the frame indent/recess and then pull the two parts apart them firmly push them together again, as you push them fully home you can often feel a faint click as they locate fully.

The other connection to check is the main motor controller box connection where the motor wire is connected, check the connection block is fully together.

Sometimes connectors can be dislodged over time or on bumpy/rougher terrain.

  • Author

Thankyou David, I have done that and sent the attached photos which I believe show the fault.

I took the cover off the control unit to reveal a narrowly missed potential fire!

I have to say I was disappointed to say the least at the quality of the electronic connections in that tiny compartment on an expensive bike.

I await a reply from Adrian

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Phase bullets with the soft pliable protection eventually always give trouble and are a crappy solution but many bikes use them, when the heat gets too much they do melt somewhat fortunately no major damage occurred. If you can solder either cut them off and simply solder the wires together and heat shrink/insulate separately.

Or I use MT60 tri connectors on all my controllers and make the change from new, I find they are very good they come with an insulation shroud.

Edited by Nealh

  • Author

Nealh, thanks for that recommendation great idea if they will fit in with all the cables otherwise I would solder and heat shrink. Problem before was it was all stuffed in the small space and the control box must get quite warm so very little air circulation.

With Wispers legendary support service I hope to have it fixed soon and get up those hills round here!

Thanks Jonathan, sorry about the agro, we will resolve immediately

Thank you for the speedy response. I have made sure the connector has not come apart at all but it is a major job disconnecting and electrolubing it, see attached. And its under warranty. I am surprised the connector is in such a vulnerable inaccessible place!

 

"It does beg the question why were the bike manufactured with naff brakes?"

 

We put the connector inside the chain stay to protect it and to keep it as clean as possible. It's out of harm's way there but still accessible. You will however need an electrical screwdriver to flick it out though.

 

The brakes are fine, we did however get a few contaminated discs/pads a few months ago, rather than mess about we simply send out replacements.

 

All the best, David

Edited by Wisper Bikes

  • Author

Wisper fault update.

New control box from Wisper fitted, cut off the bullet connectors and fitted MT60 3 pole 30 amp gold plated connector available here (thanks Nealh).

Big difference, more power and no stoppages, 20 mile trip with some serious Cornish hills and no problems.

Incidentally the clicking sound on each rev of the crank also solved by tightening the pedals with spanner and long pipe for extra leverage.

Thanks for the help folks!

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