Hi,

Has anyone any comments about the Geeko conversion kit from 100g ? (https://www.100g.tech/product/geeko-rear/)

 

best wishes

Simon

Nice pedal sensor. You should change the sentence 'from 100g' to 'with the 100G'. The latter is the name or model of the pedal sensor. From 100g could be misunderstood as from 100 grams.

Expensive for what it is , but guess one is paying for phone connectivity and the benefit of small 5ah battery and then gets even sillier price wise with the larger batteries.

Issue is how easy and expensive to repair/replace it, if it goes wrong.

 

Glad to see for the first time actual reference to how they managed the range quoted. Not often we get 30c in windless conditions and even if one is 60kg the range is still a little far fetched for an average rider.

Edited March 2, 20233 yr by Nealh

Well this is a nice kit, it has lots of options (front/rear hub or both! 250/350W motor, 5.2-10Ah batteries, throttle/no throttle).

 

It seems to be cheaper than Swytch kit (plus no waiting list, long wait for delivery it seems) and the whole kit looks neat with the controller + display on the battery bottle (+PAS for front motor hub; the rear hub motor seems to have integrated PAS in it?) so less cables to wrap on the frame.

 

It's a 9 pin Julet connector to the motor; I wonder if I get the battery holder and the bottle holder ($300~ / £250~) I could connect Swytch motor. Probably not as the Geeko hub motor is MT-3625F (Geeko-Front-Specification.pdf (100g.tech)) which doesn't seem to give any result on Google.

 

I would have been interested to get one for a cleaner plug&play kit as a first conversion.

Well this is a nice kit, it has lots of options (front/rear hub or both! 250/350W motor, 5.2-10Ah batteries, throttle/no throttle).

 

It seems to be cheaper than Swytch kit (plus no waiting list, long wait for delivery it seems) and the whole kit looks neat with the controller + display on the battery bottle (+PAS for front motor hub; the rear hub motor seems to have integrated PAS in it?) so less cables to wrap on the frame.

 

It's a 9 pin Julet connector to the motor; I wonder if I get the battery holder and the bottle holder ($300~ / £250~) I could connect Swytch motor. Probably not as the Geeko hub motor is MT-3625F (Geeko-Front-Specification.pdf (100g.tech)) which doesn't seem to give any result on Google.

 

I would have been interested to get one for a cleaner plug&play kit as a first conversion.

it's a bespoke system. The magnet ring goes onto the freehub body in place of the cassette lock ring. There is no wire, so it's either bluetooth or more likely (there is no battery inside the magnet ring), the pedal sensor is inside the motor's cover. You need their motor. The controller and LCD are integrated to the battery so you'll need their battery too.

You can't use their components separately.

 

100g Cassette PAS Sensor - China Magnetic Sensor and Electric Bike PAS Sensor (made-in-china.com)

Edited March 3, 20233 yr by Woosh

Thanks for all your comments. In summary it appears that no one has actually purchased a kit. I found one UK review from, I think, 2017 which was positive but who knows what the service and back up is like in 2023?

 

My dilemma is that I either fit a Tongsheng mid drive purchased in kit form from woosh or order a list of components from China to build up a rear hub motor drive system and have the motor built into a 20inch wheel. Buying the hub system from China may be slightly cheaper but will not have any real warranty.

 

Reading my own post it appears that the Tongsheng is the way to go.

Are you aware of the main difference between a bafang and tongshen mid drive?

 

Both are available from reputable uk suppliers and Woosh sells both kits.

 

If you prefer cadence pedal assist go for the bafang, but if you prefer torque assist then go with the tongsheng.

Imho the Tongsheng is abetter ride feel wise then the Bafang mid drive, though some may argue reliability in the Tong is worse ?

I had a BBS01 and had two controller failures , the Tong I have not yet used for as long in ownership or mileage so can't say.

I just installed and tried out a Geeko front wheel kit with Prime battery, 36V, 10A hr. fitted onto a 1980's Raleigh sports bike. Weight of kit about 4kg, bike + kit fitted is 15.3kg.(Rider weighs abt 80kg)

Travelled a route of 85km with total climb of 1182 meters, 5% battery capacity remained at finish. According to my calculations, allowing 80% efficiency of system, the climbing alone would require all the battery energy.

Factory setting of max speed is 34km/hr (21mph), I shall fiddle around with the settings to reduce max speed to 12 to 14 mph in order to conserve battery energy for hills and headwinds.

Shall update in a couple of weeks when I have had more experience with it

Hi, I'm also interested in the Geeko front wheel kit. How was the whole ordering process and how long did it take? Did you order directly from 100g website? Thanks.

Hi, I'm also interested in the Geeko front wheel kit. How was the whole ordering process and how long did it take? Did you order directly from 100g website? Thanks.

 

Kit ordered on-line on Jan 18th (during Chinese new Year holiday), delivered on Mar 16th. The process was straightforward, site list price $680 included delivery & vat.

I just installed and tried out a Geeko front wheel kit with Prime battery, 36V, 10A hr. fitted onto a 1980's Raleigh sports bike. Weight of kit about 4kg, bike + kit fitted is 15.3kg.(Rider weighs abt 80kg)

Travelled a route of 85km with total climb of 1182 meters, 5% battery capacity remained at finish. According to my calculations, allowing 80% efficiency of system, the climbing alone would require all the battery energy.

Factory setting of max speed is 34km/hr (21mph), I shall fiddle around with the settings to reduce max speed to 12 to 14 mph in order to conserve battery energy for hills and headwinds.

Shall update in a couple of weeks when I have had more experience with it

I'd be interested to see how you are getting along as there is a chap on another forum who's kit failed second time out and he can't get any sense out of them.

I'd be interested to see how you are getting along as there is a chap on another forum who's kit failed second time out and he can't get any sense out of them.

The kit is performing satisfactorily to date. So far, I've only needed the first level of power assist and on long level stretches of road I usually set it to level zero (L00).

I have a geeko rear kit since about 1 month.

It took about 1 month to arrive from China.

It's the 350w version with the 15AH battery.

I use it to commute to work 26km single trip.

I always use the highest level 5 of support.

After a single trip it report a battery level of about 65%, but I have always charged at work also. I haven't tried to go back home without charging.

I can do about 33km/h without to much effort when there is no wind.

So far I'm happy with the kit.

I just installed and tried out a Geeko front wheel kit with Prime battery, 36V, 10A hr. fitted onto a 1980's Raleigh sports bike. Weight of kit about 4kg, bike + kit fitted is 15.3kg.(Rider weighs abt 80kg)

Travelled a route of 85km with total climb of 1182 meters, 5% battery capacity remained at finish. According to my calculations, allowing 80% efficiency of system, the climbing alone would require all the battery energy.

Factory setting of max speed is 34km/hr (21mph), I shall fiddle around with the settings to reduce max speed to 12 to 14 mph in order to conserve battery energy for hills and headwinds.

Shall update in a couple of weeks when I have had more experience with it

 

So how's the kit performing Al ?

 

I'm thinking of getting the rear wheel kit

In a word, 'fantastic'. I haven't used it much in the 4 months since purchase, about 400 miles.

A bit of background, I would be regarded as 'elderly', though I insist that the hills are getting steeper due to geological factors. I had given up on some hill routes, but since fitting the kit I now know no bounds (so far).

I set the assist level at L00 on flat and switch to L01 when approaching a climb. At L01 the controller algorithm seems to monitor speed and cadence and vary the assist power to maintain both, giving the impression that as slope increases the resistance offered by the pedals does not increase. My longest trip on it so far has been almost 80 miles.

Controls and data can be monitored via app on smartphone but I still use old G2 Nokia. I find it a bit awkward reaching to the switches on the battery top. To overcome this I'm in the process of making up a switch arrangement, mounted on handlebar, to interrupt the output from pedal sensor. I'll post an update when I've tried it out.

I’ve done about 600 miles with my rear wheel kit (solid 10amp battery, 350w motor)

 

it’s gone pretty well - ride is swift and smooth, I’ve had 2 issues which have neededcustomer service and I have to say the service is amazing- they respond to what’s app within minutes and help troubleshoot whatever the issue is.

I had a trouble with the controller being reset to factory which meant a loss of power and once that was diagnosed they asked me to do firmware update which unfortunately failed half way through and meant I had to wait 2 weeks for a part to be sent from China but these things can happen - and if they do it’s good to know they are swift to respond.

it goes really well and the built in sensor on the rear wheel is much better than the crank mounted magnetic one on my swytch bike.

it's a bespoke system. The magnet ring goes onto the freehub body in place of the cassette lock ring. There is no wire, so it's either bluetooth or more likely (there is no battery inside the magnet ring), the pedal sensor is inside the motor's cover. You need their motor. The controller and LCD are integrated to the battery so you'll need their battery too.

You can't use their components separately.

 

100g Cassette PAS Sensor - China Magnetic Sensor and Electric Bike PAS Sensor (made-in-china.com)

I think what you are describing is for the back wheel, the set-up for the front wheel seems similar to Swytch. see youtube review

So i'm also wondering if their battery could drive a Swytch wheel. (i'm pretty dissapointed that my switch battery failed less than two year, so not inclined to purchase a replacement from swytch). Pricewise it's not too dissimmilar but the bottle mounting and ease of removing (for a Brompton) is a neat mounting I have not seen in other conversion kits besides Swytch.

I think what you are describing is for the back wheel, the set-up for the front wheel seems similar to Swytch. see youtube review

So i'm also wondering if their battery could drive a Swytch wheel. (i'm pretty dissapointed that my switch battery failed less than two year, so not inclined to purchase a replacement from swytch). Pricewise it's not too dissimmilar but the bottle mounting and ease of removing (for a Brompton) is a neat mounting I have not seen in other conversion kits besides Swytch.

You can use any 36v battery you want with a Swytch kit. it's just two wires to join it to the controller.

The controller appears to be integrated into the Geeko bottle battery mount, so you will need to remove it and rewire the connector (two wires). That's assuming that if you order a single battery it comes with a mounting bracket. The 100g website isn't clear on the subject, but as the controller is in the bracket I suspect it doesn't.

Edited September 22, 20232 yr by Cadence

I have a geeko the controller is separate from the battery it is in the holder.

I also have a swytch I might try the geeko battery on it if I do I’ll let you know what happens

I have a geeko the controller is separate from the battery it is in the holder.

I also have a swytch I might try the geeko battery on it if I do I’ll let you know what happens

Great, let me know what the outcome is.

I am interested in getting a rear wheel Geeko in 250W or 350W for my Triban 520 with disc brake.

I have not seen any road bikes converted on YT using this kit but if the wheel is right -700C the main area that concerns me is the diameter of the hub - attached. I don't see why this should be an issue - but I can see how it could be. Before going out & spending money on it I would appreciate any feedback on whether this is likely to be problemmatical or whether it looks okay & whether there are likely to be any other issues that I am missing. Thanks.

 

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/road-bike-triban-rc-520-disc-brake-blue/_/R-p-308072

I am interested in getting a rear wheel Geeko in 250W or 350W for my Triban 520 with disc brake.

I have not seen any road bikes converted on YT using this kit but if the wheel is right -700C the main area that concerns me is the diameter of the hub - attached. I don't see why this should be an issue - but I can see how it could be. Before going out & spending money on it I would appreciate any feedback on whether this is likely to be problemmatical or whether it looks okay & whether there are likely to be any other issues that I am missing. Thanks.

 

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/road-bike-triban-rc-520-disc-brake-blue/_/R-p-308072

What problem do you see with the diameter of the hub? Do you think it's too big, too small or what, and why? Or do you mean the axle?

What problem do you see with the diameter of the hub? Do you think it's too big, too small or what, and why? Or do you mean the axle?

 

I don't see that there is a problem - measuring it quickly with disc it seems close. But it has to be spot on. Is there any reason why it could be a problem ie would a Triban 520 Disc brake rear wheel be any different from any other road bike where you would be looking to buy a piece of kit like this. Ie are there standard measurements for hubs/ axles or do different manufacturers have different width hubs or axles that might make a purchase of a rear wheel 700C engine like this a gamble. Seems like I will have to take a leap in the dark at the moment, all the YouTube vids with hybrids/ MTBs & seems straightforward but nothing on a roadbike like a Triban. Thanks.