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New Project Started

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I think Peter nailed it.

It will be for Seneagle and his apprentice.

Apprentice will be pedaling and taking notes.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 87
  • Views 21.6k
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  • Author

Any updates on your project?

Yes, the main parts have all arrived now. I have a bit of planning to do then I'll be able to carry on. I'll give an update in about a week, which should make everything clear.

  • 1 month later...

How much is the + ?

24.412kg, 24.413kg , we need to know :)

 

I've just now tried to weigh my bike again. Without battery: 20.47kg, battery weighs 3.49kg = 23.96kg... which doesn't make sense, because more stuff has been installed on the bike... unless my digital luggage scale is not reasonably accurate. The bathroom scale wouldn't be any better.

 

Seems a bit light. Must add weight or it'll never hold the road. ;)

Sure your aware but in the absence of known weights to calibrate any scales water @ just about 1kg for 1l (1000 x the measured s.g @20c if pedantic) can be a good ad-hoc test.

I would try to lift known 5kg 10 kg 15 kg etc masses of water, and if the discrepancy is linear or close enough, they are salvageable and a +/- Xkg label or a laminated table may be all you need.. , if not linear or close bin it ;) good scales can be got via ebay auctions if patient.. took me ages to get my 300kg platform scales at a price below my low ball limit via the sellers occasional auction.. but i got there in the end ;)

..

  • Author

I don't think this cheapo luggage scale was designed with calibration by the user in mind. Complicating matters, I live in a hard water area. My bathroom scale is mechanical... but it does have an adjustment dial, for all the good that does.

I would try to lift known 5kg 10 kg 15 kg etc masses of water, and if the discrepancy is linear or close enough, they are salvageable and a +/- Xkg label or a laminated table may be all you need.. , if not linear or close bin it ;) good scales can be got via ebay auctions if patient.. took me ages to get my 300kg platform scales at a price below my low ball limit via the sellers occasional auction.. but i got there in the end ;)

..

Please do not hijack my thread. This is supposed to be a diary of my new project. i would appreciate it if you would delete irrelevant posts and start your own thread.

Please do not hijack my thread. This is supposed to be a diary of my new project. i would appreciate it if you would delete irrelevant posts and start your own thread.

 

Apologies. I've deleted my one post which allowed deletion. Hope your mysterious project is progressing well.

  • Author

Thanks, Guerney. The project has stalled a bit due mainly to the weather and the need to decide which direction out of several to go. I now have all the materials and other stuff to complete, whichever way I go.

20240110_190312.thumb.jpg.3d436dc0378c5ea6f46f9bf3b482616c.jpg

The project has stalled a bit due mainly to the weather and the need to decide which direction out of several to go. I now have all the materials and other stuff to complete, whichever way I go.

20240110_190312-jpg.55826

 

Threatened with a BFG9000 like that, I suspect it'll become whatever you want. IoT furniture form/&function changing thing? Upon Alexa command, a table or some other furniture transforms into a bar?

Edited by guerney

I am confused now... are you going to use TSDZ2B and bike parts to make flat packed self assembling Ikea furniture?

18mm plywood is an ideal material for a e-bike build. I’m also using copious amounts of the stuff for my Maxi.

 

Oh and some 5.5mm and a bit of 3.6mm as well.

  • 4 months later...
  • Author

Finally some progress. Other things have been getting in the way. The main obstacle has been the problem of how to deal with the torque reaction from the motor on a full-suspension bike, so here's how I did it, which can easily be copied by any of you lot. All you need is some 2.5mm steel plate/strip of any metal that has similar stiffness, then a drill and a file/angle grinder to shape it.

 

There isn't quite a straight line from the fixing point on the motor's anti-rotation plate, so you need to file or grind a slight scallop in one edge.

 

The main problem was to find a secure anchor point for it. I wasn't happy that a normal P-bracket would be secure enough, nor a plastic printed part to be strong enough. Then I found these, which were perfect. I can use the back 6mm fixing point to hold a bracket for the musguard. It's OK as it is, but a bracket would be better:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355288298436

 

20240510_121542.thumb.jpg.bda830d8e91b6d59b295b0a7eec77582.jpg

 

Here is the torque arm now fitted:

 

20240510_122934.thumb.jpg.447a68815964d4f0da1c7d0510e6485b.jpg

 

The clearance between the motor and the swinging chainstay is very tight. The lug for the screw interfered at first, but I managed to get just enough rotation to clear it:

 

20240510_123023.thumb.jpg.09467c31b3f549b94c2e68419184e551.jpg

Finally some progress. Other things have been getting in the way. The main obstacle has been the problem of how to deal with the torque reaction from the motor on a full-suspension bike, so here's how I did it, which can easily be copied by any of you lot. All you need is some 2.5mm steel plate/strip of any metal that has similar stiffness, then a drill and a file/angle grinder to shape it.

 

There isn't quite a straight line from the fixing point on the motor's anti-rotation plate, so you need to file or grind a slight scallop in one edge.

 

Do you think all this effort was necessary? Theoretically TSDZ2B should be OK without extra support.

 

I was wondering what this extra hole in bracket is for. Now I know :)

  • Author

Here's the finished thing. The chain comes off in first gear, the tyres rubbing somewhere, but only when I'm riding it, and the speed sensor doesn't work. I'll soon get those sorted:

 

20240514_131820.thumb.jpg.c329d82f860beb52d54b83cb36d3986a.jpg

 

20240514_131857.thumb.jpg.efedcf8028ab76e9b1f0c87f3bcef568.jpg

 

20240514_131830.thumb.jpg.ec434fcd0304ebbeedc3d367840df9a0.jpg

 

Apart from a few adjustments, this is stage one of the project that has three stages. More to come when I make more progress.

  • Author

Do you think all this effort was necessary? Theoretically TSDZ2B should be OK without extra support.

 

I was wondering what this extra hole in bracket is for. Now I know :)

I would say that the friction from the bracket on the BB has no chance of resisting the motor's torque. That's why they ptovide their own anti-rotation arrangement.

I would say that the friction from the bracket on the BB has no chance of resisting the motor's torque. That's why they ptovide their own anti-rotation arrangement.

 

It is added there as extra measure. TSDZ8 don't have this extra bracket and it is expected to stay in place. One way or another your solution won't hurt for sure.

The solution is a good one. It's rock solid, much more so than the splines at the back of the V shaped bracket that comes with the kit.
  • Author

It is added there as extra measure. TSDZ8 don't have this extra bracket and it is expected to stay in place. One way or another your solution won't hurt for sure.

The TSDZ8 has a different bracket. I wouldn't rely on it anyway, plus it ruins your BB.

The TSDZ8 has a different bracket. I wouldn't rely on it anyway, plus it ruins your BB.

 

TSDZ2B and TSDZ8 brackets are almost the same. Just TZDZ8 is a little bigger. I hope it will hold. If not I will send it all back to WOOSH

 

...or I will make them to send me gizmo like yours. ;)

  • Author

TSDZ8:

[ATTACH type=full" alt="57709]57709[/ATTACH]

 

TSDZ2B:

[ATTACH type=full" alt="57710]57710[/ATTACH]

Just make sure that your ring-nut is nice and tight!

Whack the tool a few times with a lump hammer, which is what I did.

 

Sounds like a decent torque wrench substitute :)

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