[ATTACH=full]55676[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]55677[/ATTACH]

 

At your weight any electric bike 36v or 48v will very easily cope with that !

10.7% isn't steep for a 75kg guy. Any 36v system should be able to get you up that without pedalling. I'm 100kg and deal with 30% hills, for which 48v would be a much better choice, and maybe 20 amps to not have to struggle, though I only have 14A.

Hi everyone, I just signed up to th forums. I'll really do appreciate any helpful solutions.. i have just purchased the Engwe 014. The LCD screen shows am riding on 58km/h and map shows I'm speeding on 24km/h. I have been searching the internet for solutions, will changing the controller and display give me more km/h?

Hi everyone, I just signed up to th forums. I'll really do appreciate any helpful solutions.. i have just purchased the Engwe 014. The LCD screen shows am riding on 58km/h and map shows I'm speeding on 24km/h. I have been searching the internet for solutions, will changing the controller and display give me more km/h?

 

Why won't you start a new thread?

 

You probably just need to alter wheel size in options.

Another way to look at it is that a motor effectively takes up to X% off gradients. For a commute you already manage most systems/kits should make it a fair bit less tiring and slightly faster. Designing a system to let you do what you couldn't before or make your journey significantly quicker, that would be different.

 

On a route like yours there's no need to risk overvolting and my DGW22Cs do actually feel a bit ponderous, whereas the battery's OK as it's in the middle. A basic multimeter's useful and check parts here before you commit.

 

Are those handlebars comfortable?

Another way to look at it is that a motor effectively takes up to X% off gradients. For a commute you already manage most systems/kits should make it a fair bit less tiring and slightly faster. Designing a system to let you do what you couldn't before or make your journey significantly quicker, that would be different.

 

On a route like yours there's no need to risk overvolting and my DGW22Cs do actually feel a bit ponderous, whereas the battery's OK as it's in the middle. A basic multimeter's useful and check parts here before you commit.

 

Are those handlebars comfortable?

 

Firstly, thank you for your input. And that's the thing, I don't do the commute yet. I take the tube, but I have over the past month or so been cycling a fair bit to get used to it again. I also have a exercise bike at home, which I do 20 minutes on every morning 5 times a week.

 

You mean the handlebar from the picture I posted of the bike I got?

So far I find it comfortable, it's a flat bar. I have altered it from 720mm to 640mm, which improved it I feel.

 

And as for overvolting, here's a bit of news where I currently am:

 

1 - I took a break from reading electric bike content for a bit, I needed it.

 

2 - Three days ago I saw Yose Power's 350w rear (cassette) kit (the one without the battery) on sale on Ebay for £186.

 

Much cheaper than on Amazon (£244) and even on Yose's UK site (£200 for 700c in black).

 

So I caved and went for it. The Ebay kit also comes with the battery cable with julet/waterproof (Sorry [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention]) connector to bullet connectors. The ones on Amazon and on Yose's site do not. You have to order it separately.

 

These videos by a gentleman named Howard Ridge on Youtube made the kit look like fun:

(granted that he didn't have a PAS sensor installed, since he's got a Hollowtech BB, and the two he tried after he recorded the video only worked intermittently)

 

(there are more videos, it's a 6 parter, these are just the first two)

 

And unlike many reviewers on Youtube, he's not sponsored or affiliated with the company.

 

This lad also did a great job reviewing the kit fairly

 

 

I received the kit this morning and it looks good. I like that the motor is small.

 

However just an hour ago I had a thought, since I haven't bought the battery yet, if I could get a KT 17a controller and display and run it at 48v.

 

I'll be reading [mention=38589]Cadence[/mention]'s very informative thread again to see.

I have emailed YosePower and Aikema inquiring about this particular motor's RPM at 36v.

 

If it's high, then 48v is no good and inefficient; from the little I know.

But also, would Yose sell a 700c motor wheel with high RPM? I know the 328rpm motors are for 20" wheels, so who knows.

 

On Aikema's website there's no information about the motor's RPM; here are the two motors Yose Power use on their rear cassette kits:

 

Their 350w:

https://www.aikema-e.com/product/46.html

AKM95RX(RC1)

Rated Power: 250W/350W

Max Torque: 50N.m

Weight: 2.5kg

OLD/ dropout: 138mm

Rated Voltage (DCV): 24V/36V/48V

 

Their 250w:

https://www.aikema-e.com/product/43.html

AKM95RS(RC1)

Rated Power: 250W

Max Torque: 42N.m

Weight: 2.8kg

OLD / dropout: 142mm

Rated Voltage (DCV): 24V/36V/48V

 

There's a lot more specs on the links, but it's interesting that the 350w motor is lighter and narrower, presumably the 0.3kg discrepancy being for the extra metal of the wider shell.

 

 

In other words, do I stop overcomplicating things and get a 36v battery. Or a KT controller and display along with a 48v battery that's £20 cheaper, meaning total extra spend would be about £50 for a 48v system.

 

I'm only contemplating that because I assume they wouldn't fit a 328rpm or even a 26rpm motor on a 700c/28" wheel?

And Aikema has the motor rated at 48v also.

Edited January 25, 20242 yr by throwawaychap

Firstly, thank you for your input. And that's the thing, I don't do the commute yet. I take the tube, but I have over the past month or so been cycling a fair bit to get used to it again. I also have a exercise bike at home, which I do 20 minutes on every morning 5 times a week.

 

You mean the handlebar from the picture I posted of the bike I got?

So far I find it comfortable, it's a flat bar. I have altered it from 720mm to 640mm, which improved it I feel.

 

And as for overvolting, here's a bit of news where I currently am:

 

1 - I took a break from reading electric bike content for a bit, I needed it.

 

2 - Three days ago I saw Yose Power's 350w rear (cassette) kit (the one without the battery) on sale on Ebay for £186.

 

Much cheaper than on Amazon (£244) and even on Yose's UK site (£200 for 700c in black).

 

So I caved and went for it. The Ebay kit also comes with the battery cable with julet/waterproof (Sorry [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention]) connector to bullet connectors. The ones on Amazon and on Yose's site do not. You have to order it separately.

 

These videos by a gentleman named Howard Ridge on Youtube made the kit look like fun:

(granted that he didn't have a PAS sensor installed, since he's got a Hollowtech BB, and the two he tried after he recorded the video only worked intermittently)

 

(there are more videos, it's a 6 parter, these are just the first two)

 

And unlike many reviewers on Youtube, he's not sponsored or affiliated with the company.

 

This lad also did a great job reviewing the kit fairly

 

 

I received the kit this morning and it looks good. I like that the motor is small.

 

However just an hour ago I had a thought, since I haven't bought the battery yet, if I could get a KT 17a controller and display and run it at 48v.

 

I'll be reading [mention=38589]Cadence[/mention]'s very informative thread again to see.

I have emailed YosePower and Aikema inquiring about this particular motor's RPM at 36v.

 

If it's high, then 48v is no good and inefficient; from the little I know.

But also, would Yose sell a 700c motor wheel with high RPM? I know the 328rpm motors are for 20" wheels, so who knows.

 

On Aikema's website there's no information about the motor's RPM; here are the two motors Yose Power use on their rear cassette kits:

 

Their 350w:

https://www.aikema-e.com/product/46.html

AKM95RX(RC1)

Rated Power: 250W/350W

Max Torque: 50N.m

Weight: 2.5kg

OLD/ dropout: 138mm

Rated Voltage (DCV): 24V/36V/48V

 

Their 250w:

https://www.aikema-e.com/product/43.html

AKM95RS(RC1)

Rated Power: 250W

Max Torque: 42N.m

Weight: 2.8kg

OLD / dropout: 142mm

Rated Voltage (DCV): 24V/36V/48V

 

There's a lot more specs on the links, but it's interesting that the 350w motor is lighter and narrower, presumably the 0.3kg discrepancy being for the extra metal of the wider shell.

 

 

In other words, do I stop overcomplicating things and get a 36v battery. Or a KT controller and display along with a 48v battery that's £20 cheaper, meaning total extra spend would be about £50 for a 48v system.

 

I'm only contemplating that because I assume they wouldn't fit a 328rpm or even a 26rpm motor on a 700c/28" wheel?

And Aikema has the motor rated at 48v also.

Have a look at the posts from forum member Cadence. there is a lot of good info about these motors there.

 

When you run a 36v motor at 48v, the top speed and torque increase by 30%. It also shifts the efficiency curve up the rpm scale a bit. basically, peak efficiency is around 75% to 80% of maximum RPM. You wouldn't really notice any difference to efficiency unless you're very heavy, have exceptional hills or towing stuff. Heat is proportional to the square of the current, so it's oftem more efficient to keep the current low and get more torque by increasing voltage as long as you're using the motor in a sensible RPM range.

Another happy 250w yose kit conversion user here.

I probably weigh in at about 100kg and i didnt convert a lightweight bike with my 36v 250w yose power kit ( 20-25kg? ) and if honest i would have to classify myself as quite lazy. not one for exercise for the sake of it.

 

I am very happy with the performance of the stock controller hidden in the battery sled and its 36v battery.

the motor has all the oomph needed to roll along at 15mph without any input from me and carry me up hills at comfortable speeds with a sustainable input from myself and without any of the distress, overheating, panting for breath etc, non ebike hill climbing can involve. (I happen to live uphill from everywhere or so it seems when cycling home..)

 

So I feel confident in suggesting you do not need to go the kt controller 48v battery route. But if thats what you want to do ...

 

fwiw there is a range of kt controllers designed to also fit within the hailong battery sleds, but not a dual voltage version that i could find. As i had similar thoughts while awaiting delivery of my yose kit

Yose Power's 350w rear (cassette) kit

Is the motor engraved with a rating on these?

if I could get a KT 17a controller and display and run it at 48v.

You won't regret having the extra watts. I wouldn't worry about the motor windings unless you intend to pull heavy loads uphill. Worst case with a 48V is you use more battery when going slowly uphill because it's out of it's efficiency speed but with a 48v battery you'll probably have more watt-hours anyway.

Have a look at the posts from forum member Cadence. there is a lot of good info about these motors there.

 

When you run a 36v motor at 48v, the top speed and torque increase by 30%. It also shifts the efficiency curve up the rpm scale a bit. basically, peak efficiency is around 75% to 80% of maximum RPM. You wouldn't really notice any difference to efficiency unless you're very heavy, have exceptional hills or towing stuff. Heat is proportional to the square of the current, so it's oftem more efficient to keep the current low and get more torque by increasing voltage as long as you're using the motor in a sensible RPM range.

 

Yes, as a matter of fact

 

 

I have just got done re-reading all [mention=38589]Cadence[/mention]'s three threads on his Yose motors.

 

For those interested here are the links:

 

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/yose-250w-rear-hub-motor-with-lishui-350w-controller.44857/

 

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/changed-350-back-to-250-yosepower.45875/

 

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/yosepower-rear-hub-motor-comparison-test.46136/

 

 

Another happy 250w yose kit conversion user here.

I probably weigh in at about 100kg and i didnt convert a lightweight bike with my 36v 250w yose power kit ( 20-25kg? ) and if honest i would have to classify myself as quite lazy. not one for exercise for the sake of it.

 

I am very happy with the performance of the stock controller hidden in the battery sled and its 36v battery.

the motor has all the oomph needed to roll along at 15mph without any input from me and carry me up hills at comfortable speeds with a sustainable input from myself and without any of the distress, overheating, panting for breath etc, non ebike hill climbing can involve. (I happen to live uphill from everywhere or so it seems when cycling home..)

 

So I feel confident in suggesting you do not need to go the kt controller 48v battery route. But if thats what you want to do ...

 

fwiw there is a range of kt controllers designed to also fit within the hailong battery sleds, but not a dual voltage version that i could find. As i had similar thoughts while awaiting delivery of my yose kit

 

You are one of the users I had noted was very happy with your Yose kit from reading the forum over the past 2 months. Your experience mirrors the ones from impartial Youtube review videos I saw like the ones I linked above.

 

I think, since this is my first conversion, I probably would be better off keeping it simple, and in a few years' time, when I need to change the battery, and if the motor is still running strong, 48v would be an option.

 

 

Is the motor engraved with a rating on these?

 

You won't regret having the extra watts. I wouldn't worry about the motor windings unless you intend to pull heavy loads uphill. Worst case with a 48V is you use more battery when going slowly uphill because it's out of it's efficiency speed but with a 48v battery you'll probably have more watt-hours anyway.

 

The motor has 1 faintly engraved AKM branding on it, with the motor's rating and other details. And then it has a larger Yose Power logo.

There's no other branding on the side panels of the motor.

 

Here's a picture from a fellow forum member:

(this is for their 250w rated motor)

 

 

 

 

That's the temptation 48v has, but as of this morning I'm leaning towards 36v, and an eventual 48v upgrade in a few years once the battery needs replacing.

 

Talking about 48v, I found this cargo bike which has the same AKM95RX motor with a 48v battery:

https://www.theelectricbikeshop.co.uk/product/20916/aitour-starter-643wh-electric-cargo-bike-in-black-brown/

Disclaimer: I have no affiliation to this company.

 

I think it has a 26" wheel.

Edited January 26, 20242 yr by throwawaychap

One thing I have noticed, if I were to go the 48v route, I'd have to get new cables.

 

KT controllers have male 4-to-1 connectors (I think, based on what I am seeing on topbikekit)

 

And KT 4-to-1 cables have male brake sensor connectors.

 

Yose's are female.

ironic that, you'd then be living up to your forum name

One thing I have noticed, if I were to go the 48v route, I'd have to get new cables.

 

KT controllers have male 4-to-1 connectors (I think, based on what I am seeing on topbikekit)

 

And KT 4-to-1 cables have male brake sensor connectors.

 

Yose's are female.

The advantage of KT controllers is that you can choose one of 5 levels of assistance, and you can decide how hard or easy you want to pedal, plus they have a quick response to the pedal sensor. The crappy Yose ones have 5 levels of speed control, which doesn't give you control of the power because the power changes as you speed up and slow down. It's a shame because Yose used to provide KT controllers, but then they switched to the crappy ones.

 

The KT controllers have similar connectors, but the pin-outs are different, so you have to cut off connectors and re-wire them. Only the motor connector is the same.

 

The Yose controllers work. Most people are happy with them in their blissful ignorance. These sort of controllers are on most of the legal hub-motored ebikes. You only notice the flaws when you've tried something better.

The advantage of KT controllers is that you can choose one of 5 levels of assistance, and you can decide how hard or easy you want to pedal, plus they have a quick response to the pedal sensor. The crappy Yose ones have 5 levels of speed control, which doesn't give you control of the power because the power changes as you speed up and slow down. It's a shame because Yose used to provide KT controllers, but then they switched to the crappy ones.

 

The KT controllers have similar connectors, but the pin-outs are different, so you have to cut off connectors and re-wire them. Only the motor connector is the same.

 

The Yose controllers work. Most people are happy with them in their blissful ignorance. These sort of controllers are on most of the legal hub-motored ebikes. You only notice the flaws when you've tried something better.

I have a 48V bafang rear hub kit with included speed pedal assist controller. I got the Woosh bottom bracket torque sensor kit which includes a 36v/48v 15a controller with power assist levels + LCD and it is miles better - both the torque sensor (which is very sensitive compared with the original supplied cadence sensor) and the power assist levels

ironic that, you'd then be living up to your forum name

Yes. Unless I managed to sell them somehow.

 

It is certainly consuming trying to make these decisions.

 

36v system will work and is easy given I just need the battery. Plenty of people happy with it.

 

48v system is better, the 33% extra torque alone is very enticing.

But I'd also need to get a new pair of hydraulic brake sensor, which I found on Amazon. Red colour, 2 pin, so should be KT compatible.

 

Minute 4 of this video, this gentleman tops out at 20mph on his 350w rear Yose kit on 700c wheels.

 

Based on that, what would be this motor's RPM?

 

I feel this motor would run well at 48v, especially since I assume they wouldn't build a high RPM motor on a 700c wheel. But I still don't know for sure.

 

I'm not interested in going much faster than that but extra torque would be nice.

 

 

The advantage of KT controllers is that you can choose one of 5 levels of assistance, and you can decide how hard or easy you want to pedal, plus they have a quick response to the pedal sensor. The crappy Yose ones have 5 levels of speed control, which doesn't give you control of the power because the power changes as you speed up and slow down. It's a shame because Yose used to provide KT controllers, but then they switched to the crappy ones.

 

The KT controllers have similar connectors, but the pin-outs are different, so you have to cut off connectors and re-wire them. Only the motor connector is the same.

 

The Yose controllers work. Most people are happy with them in their blissful ignorance. These sort of controllers are on most of the legal hub-motored ebikes. You only notice the flaws when you've tried something better.

 

Yes, from reading a little bit about e-bikes, I understand KT controllers or systems are far better. The issue would be me piecing it all together.

 

As for the cables, since they're relatively inexpensive, I feel I'd rather buy a KT specific one since I'd probably botch re-wiring them.

 

On top of the KT controller / display combo. I'd need a new 4-to-1 cable and a new hydraulic brake sensor (2 pin, red colour).

Along with a 48v battery.

 

As for trying something better, there's also knowing that there's something better that's also somewhat attainable for someone who hasn't bought a battery yet.

 

 

I have a 48V bafang rear hub kit with included speed pedal assist controller. I got the Woosh bottom bracket torque sensor kit which includes a 36v/48v 15a controller with power assist levels + LCD and it is miles better - both the torque sensor (which is very sensitive compared with the original supplied cadence sensor) and the power assist levels

 

Did you experience a 36v system before your 48v Bafang? I know the numbers say 33% more torque & speed (not too worried about the latter) but in real life terms, is the difference that big?

Did you experience a 36v system before your 48v Bafang? I know the numbers say 33% more torque & speed (not too worried about the latter) but in real life terms, is the difference that big?

To be pedantic, the difference is 30% - 10 cells vs 13 cells. Yes, the difference is substantial and very noticeable when riding.

 

A 48v system running at 15A feels the same as 36v one running at 20A. The 20A system will be less efficient due to the higher current. You'd need a physically bigger controller to deal with the heat, and it puts more stress on the battery, shortening its life.

 

36v and 15A is fine for riders up to 85kg. For heavier riders, fitness, the type of hills and the degree of heavierness become important parameters for deciding whether 48v is necessary.

Did you experience a 36v system before your 48v Bafang? I know the numbers say 33% more torque & speed (not too worried about the latter) but in real life terms, is the difference that big?

 

Yes, I also have a 36V rear hub XF08C (which my niece has borrowed for uni !) which I think is brilliant - I can get up slightly steeper hills, slightly faster on the Bafang 48V - I can notice a significant difference but it isn't night and day

 

I don't think you need brake sensors with a bottom bracket torque sensor - the motor is only on while you are applying pedalling torque - it doesn't operate while ghost pedalling.

Yes, I also have a 36V rear hub XF08C (which my niece has borrowed for uni !) which I think is brilliant - I can get up slightly steeper hills, slightly faster on the Bafang 48V - I can notice the difference but it isn't night and day

 

I don't think you need brake sensors with a bottom bracket torque sensor - the motor is only on while you are applying pedalling torque - it doesn't operate while ghost pedalling.

Is this right? Your 36v bike has a cadence sensor, so you can easily get max power by pedalling. Your 48v bike has a torque sensor, and the power depends on how hard you pedal.

 

I have a 36v bike with 15A controller and 48v bike with 14A controller. On max power for hill- climbing, the difference is chalk and cheese. Can we deduce from this that your torque sensor makes it difficult to get full power?

Is this right? Your 36v bike has a cadence sensor, so you can easily get max power by pedalling. Your 48v bike has a torque sensor, and the power depends on how hard you pedal.

 

I have a 36v bike with 15A controller and 48v bike with 14A controller. On max power for hill- climbing, the difference is chalk and cheese. Can we deduce from this that your torque sensor makes it difficult to get full power?

No - the 48V bike is slightly less powerful since I fitted the torque sensor kit but that is because the controller is now 15A - the original (48v) kit came with an 18A controller. When I set the LCD to show current with the torque sensor, I get to the maximum current for that PAS level on medium pedalling - so the current varies between light and medium pedalling, but then reaches the maximum assistance at medium pedalling and doesn't increase when I pedal 'harder'

 

There are hills I can cycle up on the 48V Bafang that I can't on the 36V XF08C . I am thinking about one that is 1.5 miles long , between 10-20% gradient and then has a fifty yard stretch where it increases to 28% - it's that bit where I fail on the XF08C. So I probably cycle up the rest of that hill at 5 mph on the XF08C and 6.5mph on the 48V Bafang. It's a noticeable difference but I think the XF08C has a higher winding which probably narrows the gap (the Bafang is winding code 12). Unrestricted top speed on the flat on a full battery there seems a big difference maybe 26.5 mph vs 19.5 mph

Edited January 26, 20242 yr by Peter.Bridge

No - the 48V bike is slightly less powerful since I fitted the torque sensor kit but that is because the controller is now 15A - the original (48v) kit came with an 18A controller. When I set the LCD to show current with the torque sensor, I get the to the maximum current for that PAS level on medium pedalling - so the current varies between light and medium pedalling, but then reaches the maximum assistance at medium pedalling and doesn't increase when I pedal 'harder'

 

There are hills I can cycle up on the 48V Bafang that I can't on the 36V XF08C . I am thinking about one that is 1.5 miles long , between 10-20% gradient and then has a fifty yard stretch where it increases to 28% - it's that bit where I fail on the XF08C. So I probably cycle up the rest of that hill at 5 mph on the XF08C and 6.5mph on the 48V Bafang. It's a noticeable difference but I think the XF08C has a higher winding which probably narrows the gap (the Bafang is winding code 12). Unrestricted top speed on the flat on a full battery there is a big difference maybe 26.5 mph vs 19.5 mph

You're not really making sense. The Woosh 36v XF08C kit has an 18A controller. Is that what you have? In that case You would be misleading that guy, who wants to know the difference between 36v and 48v, because you have an 18A controller with the 36v bike that gives 20% more current than the 48v one, leaving a net power difference of only 10% instead of the actual 30% difference.

The Woosh 36v XF08C kit has an 18A controller. Is that what you have?

Yep

Hi gentlemen, first things first Yose replied to my email.

(I asked, if possible, to be informed of their 350w rear hub motor's RPM at 36v)

 

They first asked me whether it's a freewheel or cassette and what wheel size.

 

After I replied: cassette, 700c or 28" they responded:

 

" Hi,

It's 225±10.

Hope this can help you."

 

So, on 28" wheels, cassette, the motor is either 215, 225 or 235rpm if I understood it correctly.

 

 

On another subject, I'll say I read each post here at least twice, every single one of you have been very helpful.

 

And, I spent most of the day so far fitting what I can of the kit (since I don't have the battery):

 

Cassette, got a new rotor with 6 bolts since mine is centre-lock,

new inner tube with a Schrader valve, fitted the PAS sensor.

Now onto the rim tape and tyre.

And then try to determine whether or not I'll need a motor extension cable.

 

I thankfully did not have to file my dropout/frame. I had measured it 10mm when I first got the bike a few months back. Also, I barely even needed to stretch it to fit the motor wheel.

 

There's a slight disc rub, but with a little tweak I should be able to smooth it out.

 

My rotor is 160mm, I was worried I'd need to get a 180mm and an adapter since I saw a recent comment on a Yose conversion video on Youtube about a guy saying his calliper with 160mm rotor rubbed on the motor.

 

I'm still undecided, spent most of the day mulling over whether to go for the easier 36v route or the slightly more complicated and costly but better 48v system.

 

Having said that, now knowing that the 350w AKM95RX rear cassette motor, fitted to a 700c by Yose is, as they descrive, 225RPM plus or minus 10.

 

Hopefully that will help people who come across this thread in the future.

Back after a few quick calculations:

 

Given the RPM Yose gave me at 36v on 700c wheels, these would be the RPM of these motors at 48v (30% increase is my math is correct, rounded up or down).

 

215 = 279

 

225 = 292

 

235 = 305

You should start with your maximum desired speed and work from there.

Motors have a sweet zone where it runs at 80% plus yield and delivers a high enough torque for your needs and stays relatively quiet. If you overvolt it, you move not only the sweet zone to higher speed, you will also reduce the maximum torque and reduce the yield too. It's not a simple equation maximum torque = x * volts , it's a lot more complex than that. Motors shed more heat at lower yield, avoid that first.

If you only want 20-22mph as your maximum speed, don't overvolt your 36v kit.

So, from the data Yose supplied, depending on tyre size, no load speed of around 25mph (40km/h) at 48v ? Slightly faster on a full battery, slightly slower in an empty battery

Edited January 27, 20242 yr by Peter.Bridge

Hi gentlemen, first things first Yose replied to my email.

(I asked, if possible, to be informed of their 350w rear hub motor's RPM at 36v)

 

They first asked me whether it's a freewheel or cassette and what wheel size.

 

After I replied: cassette, 700c or 28" they responded:

 

" Hi,

It's 225±10.

Hope this can help you."

 

So, on 28" wheels, cassette, the motor is either 215, 225 or 235rpm if I understood it correctly.

 

 

On another subject, I'll say I read each post here at least twice, every single one of you have been very helpful.

 

And, I spent most of the day so far fitting what I can of the kit (since I don't have the battery):

 

Cassette, got a new rotor with 6 bolts since mine is centre-lock,

new inner tube with a Schrader valve, fitted the PAS sensor.

Now onto the rim tape and tyre.

And then try to determine whether or not I'll need a motor extension cable.

 

I thankfully did not have to file my dropout/frame. I had measured it 10mm when I first got the bike a few months back. Also, I barely even needed to stretch it to fit the motor wheel.

 

There's a slight disc rub, but with a little tweak I should be able to smooth it out.

 

My rotor is 160mm, I was worried I'd need to get a 180mm and an adapter since I saw a recent comment on a Yose conversion video on Youtube about a guy saying his calliper with 160mm rotor rubbed on the motor.

 

I'm still undecided, spent most of the day mulling over whether to go for the easier 36v route or the slightly more complicated and costly but better 48v system.

 

Having said that, now knowing that the 350w AKM95RX rear cassette motor, fitted to a 700c by Yose is, as they descrive, 225RPM plus or minus 10.

 

Hopefully that will help people who come across this thread in the future.

Nearly every installation of a rear hub motor results in the disc rubbing. I don't know why they don't fix it. The solution for you is very simple - one standard 12mm washer on the axle on the inside of the drop-out on the left side.