If my yose motor dies I won't be too upset. I'll buy a decent rear hub

Well I went down this rabbit hole thinking bigger is better ( ‘said the actress to the bishop ‘)

And always worrying that I would not have enough battery or how long my battery would last ie how much should I spend for quality cell’s.

 

But what I have found with the right road conditions going from A to B or just going out for the day say to the pub .

 

Is the lighter and faster the bike e bike or not the better lighter bike = less power or effort to ride without going OTT .

 

Miss my Giant I made when a local doctor came round to ride my bird and went home with a Giant boom boom .

Fwiw i installed a 250w yose rear wheel kit circa 2 years ago, i also bought a kt dual voltage controller with the intention of sourcing a 2nd 48v battery as i am a larger non enthusiastic cyclist.

 

2 years on and im still riding with the stock system, the kt controller is installed on a 2nd 'backup' bike..

limited experience 'test ridding' the kt 17a controller with 36v and no speed limit and i achieved 22mph but the last few miles were slow painfully slow to attain on the flat.

 

I would suggest buying a 250w kit and if you find the 15.5 mph speed limit too restrictive and you have confidence in your bikes brakes and stopping distance a 17a controller upgrade alongside a battery upgrade to 48v will give you both 33% more torque and speed putting 20 mph clearly at the optimum running speed (15 + 33% = 20)

Though moving at 20 mph in unlikely conditions (anything but down hill) is likely to draw interest and with a bike unrestricted to 15mph, it might not remain in your possession.

And you might want to monitor the motor temp considering the extra amps you will be providing it.

Weight is 15 half stone

Hill grade about 5% to 10 % no heigh than that

10 miles there and back to work

15A at 48v should be fine for your weight and 5% hills. For 10%, 17A would be better.

I was also considering the battery required for a 17amp controller vs 15amp.

It depends how far you want to go. 20Ah 48v batteries are pretty cheap these days from Greenlance and Yose, so why have any less.

One of the things about speed on a bike, especially at higher speeds, on the flat it is very much affected by riding position and tyres. A rider on a road bike with drop handlebars and road tyres with 300 watts of power will do 25 mph, on a mountain bike with flat handlebars and MTB tyres they will do 20mph. To do 25 mph on the mountain bike needs 500 watts of power.

 

Going up hills it is much more about the combined weight of rider and bike

Guys still don’t know what to pick , my carrea hellcat is light bike , think about going 250w change the cassette to high speed for hills and flats to go faster ( but what cassette will be best and know much about cassette teeth etc ???

 

And thinking about getting thin road tyres instead off 2.3 a have on now ,

 

so if change all that should get speed comfortable of 18/ 19 mph and good for 5% to 10% hills ??

 

am 15.half stone would this 250 w cope with my weight ??

 

 

think leave the it controller if not needed as ads extra bulk to my bike want look clean as possible to not draw attention

 

Thanks all help guys

So much chose from

Some pictures of my bike , on the way to work

Some pictures of my bike , on the way to work

When you convert a normal bike to an electric one, you have desired performance characteristics and aesthetic characteristics. The problem is that the various characteristics conflict with each other: range vs weight; appearance vs utility; power vs stealth; speed vs legal requirements; unavailability vs cost; etc.

 

The only person, who can decide on the correct balance. You can achieve more of the characteristics if you source parts specially, but then they're more expensive. You need a motor, a controller with a HID, a battery and some sensors. You can get them in a kit or source them individually.

 

My recommendations are a rear 250 rpm 48v geared cassette hub-motor or a 201 rpm 36v one; a 15A minimum KT controller with LCD4 for stealth otherwise LCD3 or LCD5, or 17A if you can find one; any 48v battery from Yose or Greenlance; any KT pedal sensor and any throttle.

 

If you don't want to spend time sourcing those parts to get the nicest conversion, you can get the 250w 48v Woosh kit with the big geared motor that's heavy, but will last a lifetime of commuting.

 

The Woosh 48v TSDZ8 kit is also powerful. Crank-motors are a bit less durable and wear the drive-train parts quicker, and they're a little less dependable than hub-motors, but they're very quick and easy to install. The only problem I've had is the chain coming off because of the single chain-ring and 9 gears alignment, but that's easily cured with a chainguide, either self-made or bought. I'm 100kg and use the less powerful 48vTSDZ2 quite a lot, but it's slower than a hub-motor because you have to change right down to first gear to go up steep hills. It lacks power by comparison. The TSDZ8 is more powerful than the TSDZ2. If I were to guess, I'd say the TSDZ2 is somewhere around 12A to 15A, and the TSDZ8 18A to 20A. The only problem with powerful crank-drives is that the chance of mashing your gears is higher, which could leave you stranded.

[mention=45135]Michael 2025[/mention]

I just bought marathon plus tour 26 x 1.75 tyres

I like a bit of grip over grass and mud sometimes

When you convert a normal bike to an electric one, you have desired performance characteristics and aesthetic characteristics. The problem is that the various characteristics conflict with each other: range vs weight; appearance vs utility; power vs stealth; speed vs legal requirements; unavailability vs cost; etc.

 

The only person, who can decide on the correct balance. You can achieve more of the characteristics if you source parts specially, but then they're more expensive. You need a motor, a controller with a HID, a battery and some sensors. You can get them in a kit or source them individually.

 

My recommendations are a rear 250 rpm 48v geared cassette hub-motor or a 201 rpm 36v one; a 15A minimum KT controller with LCD4 for stealth otherwise LCD3 or LCD5, or 17A if you can find one; any 48v battery from Yose or Greenlance; any KT pedal sensor and any throttle.

 

If you don't want to spend time sourcing those parts to get the nicest conversion, you can get the 250w 48v Woosh kit with the big geared motor that's heavy, but will last a lifetime of commuting.

 

The Woosh 48v TSDZ8 kit is also powerful. Crank-motors are a bit less durable and wear the drive-train parts quicker, and they're a little less dependable than hub-motors, but they're very quick and easy to install. The only problem I've had is the chain coming off because of the single chain-ring and 9 gears alignment, but that's easily cured with a chainguide, either self-made or bought. I'm 100kg and use the less powerful 48vTSDZ2 quite a lot, but it's slower than a hub-motor because you have to change right down to first gear to go up steep hills. It lacks power by comparison. The TSDZ8 is more powerful than the TSDZ2. If I were to guess, I'd say the TSDZ2 is somewhere around 12A to 15A, and the TSDZ8 18A to 20A. The only problem with powerful crank-drives is that the chance of mashing your gears is higher, which could leave you stranded.

 

Thanks for take time to reply , a wouldn’t go mid drive as if me chain snaps a be left

Stranded 4 clock in the morning pushing me

Bike back 10 miles , to risky that , think going go the route yose power 250w rear hub then if it’s not powerful enough upgrade to yose power controller as that give me few more amps won’t it ??

Just ordered 10 speed 11-34 cassette to make more stealth and to help get up hils etc

 

a got free shimano SLX M675 10 speed derailleur. Given at work so going not cost much going from 8 speed to 10 speed

[mention=45135]Michael 2025[/mention]

I just bought marathon plus tour 26 x 1.75 tyres

I like a bit of grip over grass and mud sometimes

That’s exactly one am looking at , as there supposed be good for punctures

It's good to ask here for advice but sometimes people can end up in "analysis paralysis". There's something to be said for hands on doing conversions and learning that way. A Yosepower kit is a good, inexpensive starting point that you can later do upgrades and refinements if you want to

Guys still don’t know what to pick , my carrea hellcat is light bike , think about going 250w change the cassette to high speed for hills and flats to go faster ( but what cassette will be best and know much about cassette teeth etc ???

 

And thinking about getting thin road tyres instead off 2.3 a have on now ,

 

so if change all that should get speed comfortable of 18/ 19 mph and good for 5% to 10% hills ??

 

am 15.half stone would this 250 w cope with my weight ??

 

 

think leave the it controller if not needed as ads extra bulk to my bike want look clean as possible to not draw attention

 

Thanks all help guys

So much chose from

Your biggest problem is your determination to break the assistance speed limit. The current focus of enforcement is exactly that. It doesn't matter how big your battery and controller box are provided they are fit for purpose and safely mounted, but if you are stopped with an illegal top speed don't expect a good outcome.

fwiw im a similar mass 90+kg.. and my stock yose 250w rear motor conversion has enough oomph to put a smile on my face as i pull away and speed upto 15 mph still after 2 yrs on it.. Up-slope too carrying a £60 tesco haul..

 

Btw 15 mph is way too fast for many roads in not peak condition..

try ridding at 20 mph on a melted tarmack surface with divits and rises all over, even with top notch suspension (lacking on my bike) your backside will not be happy..

 

@ 90kg+ have you ever cycled at 20 mph (downhill wont count) ?? can your brakes function with a reasonable stopping distance at 20 mph?

 

Post conversion thanks to the speedo I learnt pre conversion my regular comfy speed was 11-12mph and given a good clear run i could hit 15 mph.. though my bike is 'heavy' and geared accordingly.

 

whats behind the need for speed???

fwiw im a similar mass 90+kg.. and my stock yose 250w rear motor conversion has enough oomph to put a smile on my face as i pull away and speed upto 15 mph still after 2 yrs on it.. Up-slope too carrying a £60 tesco haul..

 

Btw 15 mph is way too fast for many roads in not peak condition..

try ridding at 20 mph on a melted tarmack surface with divits and rises all over, even with top notch suspension (lacking on my bike) your backside will not be happy..

 

@ 90kg+ have you ever cycled at 20 mph (downhill wont count) ?? can your brakes function with a reasonable stopping distance at 20 mph?

 

Post conversion thanks to the speedo I learnt pre conversion my regular comfy speed was 11-12mph and given a good clear run i could hit 15 mph.. though my bike is 'heavy' and geared accordingly.

 

whats behind the need for speed???

He wants 10 miles each way with minimum effort. I think the 36v Yose kit would be a bit weak for that. He really needs a 48v 250w kit, but I don't believe Yose does one. It's what i said - you can't have everything.

He wants 10 miles each way with minimum effort. I think the 36v Yose kit would be a bit weak for that. He really needs a 48v 250w kit, but I don't believe Yose does one. It's what i said - you can't have everything.

 

Something close to that , after 10 hour shift don’t want to be peddling hard just want least effort as possible getting home , but still peddle but not ghost peddling , the journey from work nearly 7 mile straight long road . So just relax peddle back home ,where not sweating and the motor doing most off the work .

 

this is the map a done on google see it’s nearly one straight line. And give you idea how steep the hills are this 5 mile of me journey , so don’t know if the yose power 250w or 350 w would be enough or to weak with stock controller ??

Something close to that , after 10 hour shift don’t want to be peddling hard just want least effort as possible getting home , but still peddle but not ghost peddling , the journey from work nearly 7 mile straight long road . So just relax peddle back home ,where not sweating and the motor doing most off the work .

 

this is the map a done on google see it’s nearly one straight line. And give you idea how steep the hills are this 5 mile of me journey , so don’t know if the yose power 250w or 350 w would be enough or to weak with stock controller ??

 

But been have look on the internet and a have come across this motor never heard off it but

It’s a part of Bafang but there not much info

On the net about it ??

 

https://varstrom.com/en-gb/products/sutto-250w-36v-rear-hub-freewheel

 

but it’s 36v controller but since Bafang KT controller could not swap this for KT 36v / 48 controller so have 250w with 48v ???

fwiw im a similar mass 90+kg.. and my stock yose 250w rear motor conversion has enough oomph to put a smile on my face as i pull away and speed upto 15 mph still after 2 yrs on it.. Up-slope too carrying a £60 tesco haul..

 

Btw 15 mph is way too fast for many roads in not peak condition..

try ridding at 20 mph on a melted tarmack surface with divits and rises all over, even with top notch suspension (lacking on my bike) your backside will not be happy..

 

@ 90kg+ have you ever cycled at 20 mph (downhill wont count) ?? can your brakes function with a reasonable stopping distance at 20 mph?

 

Post conversion thanks to the speedo I learnt pre conversion my regular comfy speed was 11-12mph and given a good clear run i could hit 15 mph.. though my bike is 'heavy' and geared accordingly.

 

whats behind the need for speed???

A just think 15 little bit to slow 19/21 is very comfortable and gets you A to B in reasonable time 15 can peddle fast than that but obviously not for that many miles .

A just think 15 little bit to slow 19/21 is very comfortable and gets you A to B in reasonable time 15 can peddle fast than that but obviously not for that many miles .

In which case you have a choice. Buy a 350w kit that you can set the speed limit to what you want, knowing it is illegal, or get an e-moped with road tax, insurance etc. You can set the speed and throttle with the Yose 350w kit.

I have 250w and 350w Yose kits and was very pleased with both of them. I think you are being too fixated with speed. The difference between 15 and 21 mph on arrival time over 10 miles is negligible. I updated the 250w with a KT controller to get a higher top speed, but in practice I've found 15.mph fast enough and set it accordingly, with the peace of mind that my bike conforms to the regs.

Edited April 26, 20251 yr by Cadence

But been have look on the internet and a have come across this motor never heard off it but

It’s a part of Bafang but there not much info

On the net about it ??

 

https://varstrom.com/en-gb/products/sutto-250w-36v-rear-hub-freewheel

 

but it’s 36v controller but since Bafang KT controller could not swap this for KT 36v / 48 controller so have 250w with 48v ???

You should look for a 250w 48v kit. The problem is that you have to search very hard to find a kit with everything: 250w, 48v, 29", rear, cassette motor. Its easier to buy the parts separately if you want the best, otherwise you're pretty well limited to the Woosh kits, which are adequate for what you want.

Edited April 26, 20251 yr by saneagle

But been have look on the internet and a have come across this motor never heard off it but

It’s a part of Bafang but there not much info

On the net about it ??

 

https://varstrom.com/en-gb/products/sutto-250w-36v-rear-hub-freewheel

 

but it’s 36v controller but since Bafang KT controller could not swap this for KT 36v / 48 controller so have 250w with 48v ???

 

The controller and display will both be Bafang brand SZBF denoted, one can't simply change the controller for a KT model as it will not be compatible.

 

If you want 250w & KT then one needs to buy a 250w hub and the controller kit seperately.

Edited April 26, 20251 yr by Nealh

The controller and display will both be Bafang brand SZBF denoted, one can't simply change the controller for a KT model as it will not be compatible.

 

If you want 250w & KT then one needs to buy a 250w hub and the controller kit seperately.

 

It’s getting them compatible that’s the thing

It’s like mind field all these different controllers rear hubs you don’t know if there just labeled 250 or there 500 relabelled , it’s lot harder than thought. Loads off 250 w 36v but not many 48v

 

a could think about mid drive route but that’s got problems with chain alignment and chain snapping 10 mile away from home ,

 

know wonder delivery drivers around the town just do basic 500w Bafang and 48 v battery as there loads them kits and gets you 24 mph what a do think is to fast for bike looks suspicious

 

but thanks all input guys appreciate it and have red every ones comments

In which case you have a choice. Buy a 350w kit that you can set the speed limit to what you want, knowing it is illegal, or get an e-moped with road tax, insurance etc. You can set the speed and throttle with the Yose 350w kit.

I have 250w and 350w Yose kits and was very pleased with both of them. I think you are being too fixated with speed. The difference between 15 and 21 mph on arrival time over 10 miles is negligible. I updated the 250w with a KT controller to get a higher top speed, but in practice I've found 15.mph fast enough and set it accordingly, with the peace of mind that my bike conforms to the regs.

 

am starting think that two a think it’s like 12 minutes slower getting home from work

Think might go yose power route with built in controller and buy couple spare 36v 13 amp battery and charge at work ready for finishing work by spare charger from them to keep at work

 

If go this route a know motor switch off after 15 mph could peddle to push past that or does the motor stop you bang on 15 mph ??

It’s getting them compatible that’s the thing

It’s like mind field all these different controllers rear hubs you don’t know if there just labeled 250 or there 500 relabelled , it’s lot harder than thought. Loads off 250 w 36v but not many 48v

 

a could think about mid drive route but that’s got problems with chain alignment and chain snapping 10 mile away from home ,

 

know wonder delivery drivers around the town just do basic 500w Bafang and 48 v battery as there loads them kits and gets you 24 mph what a do think is to fast for bike looks suspicious

 

but thanks all input guys appreciate it and have red every ones comments

If you use a bike for work every day, you'll be observed by many drivers. It only takes one to grass you up because they get annoyed by you filtering to the front at a stoppage or because it took too many seconds to get the opportunity to overtake you. Many of them will be driving to work as well, so they'll see you every day and be able to predict your presence. That's the biggest risk, AFAICS. If you were riding at random times in random places, the only danger would be if a police officer observed you or stopped you during at a coordinated event of some sort.

 

Personally, I think the risk is too high now, and the gain you get from an illegal vehicle is not enough to make the risk worth it. The police are much better informed on what to look for than they were in the past. You can get all the power you need from a legal bike. It's only the speed you'd gain, which over an 8 mile ride makes about 6 minutes difference. It wouldn't be 12 minutes because a lot of the time the speeds would be the same, like on any incline and every time you have to slow down and start up again.

 

If you really want to do the journey quicker, get a 50cc scooter. It'll be quicker, cheaper and more comfortable. Also, you get a much longer range and can carry more stuff.

 

If you got a KT controller, you could set it to exactly to 27.5 km/hr with the GPS in your phone, which is technically the limit because EN 15194 allows a +10% tolerance.

 

I can't understand why you're stuck on Yose, when the Woosh 48v kits should be better for you.

Edited April 26, 20251 yr by saneagle