Confused and looking for 48v 250w rear hub since Yose won't sell me 250w 36v kit with 15ah battery

[Waspy]

Well, I'm no expert but the first thing you need to do is charge the battery. It should be 42v fully charged and 32v fully discharged.

 

[saneagle]

First step would be to charge the battery to the normal 42v or close. If it doesn't go that high, something is wrong with it. Charge it disconnected from the bike.

While it's charging, test the MOSFETs in the controller with a meter set to resistance. It's very simple. Disconnect everything then put your red probe on the red battery wire and your black one on each of the three phase wires. All three should read the same, somewhere between 5k and 20k. Repeat with your red probe on the black battery wire.

 

[Nealh]

Check the battery voltage , tbh matters not if it is charged or not. One should see more then the 23v indicated by the display.
The 23v registered on the display is likely a controller failure and a voltage regulator failure , the events are pretty much exactly the same I had years ago with a Lishui controller /display when I had the Oxydrive kit. Both my batteries at the time were near fully charged, just a case of a duff controller.
It was a turning point for me and I upgraded and fitted a better KT system and haven't looked back since.

 

[throwawaychap]

Hello everyone, I took a bit of a hiatus because I've been really busy with other matters.

I contacted Yose 2 days ago. And they have been replying to my queries. Last they said they will have their engineers simulate the symptoms I've described to find the fault.


First of all I haven't done what Waspy, Saneagle and Nealh said yet because I've only just read the posts now.

A few more things:

The bike worked perfectly and faultlessly up until that Thursday.

The 23v voltage it showed was only at that exact moment once I stopped and switched off the bike and switched it on again.

Since then, every time I switched the system on the displayed showed the actual battery voltage. Either 36.5v or 39v after I charged it a bit.

There was no error code displayed on the screen at any given time.

I tested my brake sensors by pressing them levers and letting go off each individually when I switched on the bike - and only then I saw the 25 error code as expected. So they're working normally.

Last Sunday, when I disconnected every cable and connected back again, I switched the bike on, lifted it and ran it on the throttle for about 5 minutes - it worked as normal. The battery voltage displayed the voltage expected after I charged it for an hour.

Immediately after that I took it for a test ride and the bike worked as normal for about 10 minutes and then it switched itself off as I was pedalling, much like what happened on the way back of my commute that Thursday. I stopped, waited a bit, switched the system on again, proceeded to pedal and the bike switched itself off again after about a minute.

Since then, the bike has been in my garage and I have struggled to even switch it on. Meaning, when I press and hold the button on the display, it lights up for a fraction of a second and shuts itself off again.

Only once yesterday was I able to switch the bike on without that happening.

PS.

I will try fully charging my battery today. It usually goes up to 41.3v or 41.4v when fully charged.

 

[throwawaychap]

Update:

I charged the battery to its full capacity (green light on charger).

After many attempts to switch the bike on, it read 41.4v - which is what it normally showed when the battery was fully charged previously.

What caught my eye was, as I was repeatedly pressing and holding the button to switch the system on, it would turn itself off after a fraction of a second but this time, as it did that, the display faintly showed the battery was 'empty', it had like one bar or zero bars - I couldn't read the voltage.

But mere seconds later I succeeded in switching it on and it read 41.4v as I said. 5 full bars.

Intuition tells me it could be the battery cable that came with the kit, it's a 2 bullet points to 2-pin julet that connects to the controller
(see attached image)

But it could also be the controller?

Also, would I still be able to perform the aforementioned tests if my controller has that julet/waterproof connector?
(image also attached, obviously the battery cable is the one with the 2 protruding pins)

Alas, I don't even have the tool(s) necessary for the job.

I'm puzzled but, since a few days have passed I'm calmer. The kit and the battery are well under warranty since I've only had it since late January - hopefully I'll get it resolved. Fingers crossed.

 

[saneagle]

Update:

I charged the battery to its full capacity (green light on charger).

After many attempts to switch the bike on, it read 41.4v - which is what it normally showed when the battery was fully charged previously.

What caught my eye was, as I was repeatedly pressing and holding the button to switch the system on, it would turn itself off after a fraction of a second but this time, as it did that, the display faintly showed the battery was 'empty', it had like one bar or zero bars - I couldn't read the voltage.

But mere seconds later I succeeded in switching it on and it read 41.4v as I said. 5 full bars.

Intuition tells me it could be the battery cable that came with the kit, it's a 2 bullet points to 2-pin julet that connects to the controller
(see attached image)

But it could also be the controller?

Also, would I still be able to perform the aforementioned tests if my controller has that julet/waterproof connector?
(image also attached, obviously the battery cable is the one with the 2 protruding pins)

Alas, I don't even have the tool(s) necessary for the job.

I'm puzzled but, since a few days have passed I'm calmer. The kit and the battery are well under warranty since I've only had it since late January - hopefully I'll get it resolved. Fingers crossed.

Which switch were you pressing? You can't take any notice of transients on the LCD because the capacitors in the controller will power it for a second or so.

 

[throwawaychap]

Which switch were you pressing? You can't take any notice of transients on the LCD because the capacitors in the controller will power it for a second or so.

The one on the LCD display, the button you press and hold to turn the bike on.

Looking back, I meant button and not switch.

-
I still haven't heard from Yose since they said they were going to simulate the issues with their engineers.

 

[throwawaychap]

News just in!

Yose sent me a new controller.

Just now there was a delivery guy knocking on my door which I found odd since I hadn't ordered anything.

They sent me the thing without even saying anything other than that they were going to have their engineers simulate the fault I'd described.

I'll have lunch and fit the thing, fingers crossed it solves it.

 

[thelarkbox]

Looking forward to good news..

 

[saneagle]

The one on the LCD display, the button you press and hold to turn the bike on.

Looking back, I meant button and not switch.

-
I still haven't heard from Yose since they said they were going to simulate the issues with their engineers.

In that case, I'd say there's a strong possibility that there's a battery connection issue, which will probably get fixed when you install the new controller unless you have a burnt battery connector in the cradle, which happens when you insert a battery that's switched on.

 

[throwawaychap]

In that case, I'd say there's a strong possibility that there's a battery connection issue, which will probably get fixed when you install the new controller unless you have a burnt battery connector in the cradle, which happens when you insert a battery that's switched on.

I cannot recollect ever doing that. My battery stays on the bike as I use it mostly for commuting and I never remove it when I park it there.

And I'm always paranoid and double check I flip my battery switch to 'off' whenever I'm not using the bike.


--

I was so hesitant about fitting the new controller I only got to it this morning.

Sadly the same symptoms persist with the new controller as well.

Right off the bat I struggled to turn the system on (pressing and holding the on button on the display).

After many attempts of the display going blank, it did come on.

I lifted the bike, and pressed the throttle for a good two minutes.
Battery was full as I'd left it. 43.3v. The display registered 37km per hour as usual (same no load top speed as when I first got the kit).

I let go of the throttle for a bit, then pressed it again; and after about 10 seconds the bike went dead, and the display went blank as I was pressing the throttle.


I waited about half an hour, went to the garage again, pressed the button on the display and the bike worked first time of trying.

I decided to take it for a test ride. And after about 5 minutes of the bike working normally, it went dead again as I was pedalling.

I am perplexed, and I will reiterate I never see any error code on the display or anything, the battery seems to be holding charge.

 

[saneagle]

I cannot recollect ever doing that. My battery stays on the bike as I use it mostly for commuting and I never remove it when I park it there.

And I'm always paranoid and double check I flip my battery switch to 'off' whenever I'm not using the bike.


--

I was so hesitant about fitting the new controller I only got to it this morning.

Sadly the same symptoms persist with the new controller as well.

Right off the bat I struggled to turn the system on (pressing and holding the on button on the display).

After many attempts of the display going blank, it did come on.

I lifted the bike, and pressed the throttle for a good two minutes.
Battery was full as I'd left it. 43.3v. The display registered 37km per hour as usual (same no load top speed as when I first got the kit).

I let go of the throttle for a bit, then pressed it again; and after about 10 seconds the bike went dead, and the display went blank as I was pressing the throttle.


I waited about half an hour, went to the garage again, pressed the button on the display and the bike worked first time of trying.

I decided to take it for a test ride. And after about 5 minutes of the bike working normally, it went dead again as I was pedalling.

I am perplexed, and I will reiterate I never see any error code on the display or anything, the battery seems to be holding charge.

You need to fid the bad connection. If you hanged the LCD with the controller, it'll be between the battery connection to the controller and the cell-pack. If you didn't change the LCD, it will probably be in te cableto it or a wire pulled. Look for where tat wire is squished, including the wire to a separate switch unit. Mine recently got squished by the bell.