Need help selecting ebike
- Thread starter Andy88
- Start date
LOlPerhaps they can wire it to a sound file toosorry it's all this talk of throttles
Or have two panniers full of food, or are towing a trailer, or have rugby knees, or ride in ordinary clothes not lycra, or...
I do go on don't I...
I'm not sure what you mean here by 'snipes'. No one has put forward any view that is not objective, as far as I can see. I have honestly put forward my opinion about my Woosh Scirocco CDL & it wasn't a good experience, so I couldn't talk glowingly. That isn't sniping. With the budget you have, I think an Oxygen would be money better spent, although the e-Mate MTB isn't a step through machine. Maybe this: http://www.oxygenbicycles.com/e-bikes/s-cross-st is worth a look.
I was referring to other things that id seen on the web, there is a bit of friendly banter between rival companies.
Oxygen looks good but I prefer the step through model.
Ive been riding a 125cc scooter for the last 15 years but that's not an option for me in the uk.
Schwalbe Marathon Super tyres seem the best defense against punctures do u use upgraded tyres on your oxygen?
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Oxygen looks good but I prefer the step through model.
Ive been riding a 125cc scooter for the last 15 years but that's not an option for me in the uk.
Schwalbe Marathon Super tyres seem the best defense against punctures do u use upgraded tyres on your oxygen?
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warwick, I still think you were a bit harsh, critique the bike for punctures is simply unfair IMHO. It has little to do with the way the bike is put together, more to do with the roads.
Things like seat post and saddle are easily and cheaply swapped out to suit personal taste, the problem you had with the derailleur is regrettable, but if you remember the thread, I tried to talk you out of shortening the chain and recommended to seek advice from woosh technical support. Once the chain has been shortened, the problem can only get worse. it's still not fair to compare the £350 second hand CDL against the Oxygen MTB. The CDL is about the cheapest hybrid bike on the market. It's fairer to match the £869 woosh Sport against your Oxygen MTB.
Things like seat post and saddle are easily and cheaply swapped out to suit personal taste, the problem you had with the derailleur is regrettable, but if you remember the thread, I tried to talk you out of shortening the chain and recommended to seek advice from woosh technical support. Once the chain has been shortened, the problem can only get worse. it's still not fair to compare the £350 second hand CDL against the Oxygen MTB. The CDL is about the cheapest hybrid bike on the market. It's fairer to match the £869 woosh Sport against your Oxygen MTB.
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We'll have to agree to disagree, Trex. The Kenda tyres were cheap and two punctures in two rides on ordinary roads convinced me that Marathon Pluses were the way to go. Sorted.
Look at the list of things I felt I had to upgrade and it's clear that many of the original fittings were not fit for (my) purpose. These upgrades were not cheap. I may have got the CDL for £350, but it was virtually a new bike and I got what looked like an eBay bargain at the time. I made the point in my earlier post that new the Oxygen comes at a significant premium over the Woosh and a direct comparison certainly isn't valid and wasn't intended. However, with hindsight, the extra £400 for the Oxygen step through bike I linked to above would be money well spent based on my experience of the two companies' offerings.
If I have one gripe against the Oxygen it's the 27.5" wheels. It does reduce tyre choice. I'm currently running Schwalbe Land Cruisers on it. I had these on my 700c wheeled bike and they were great for grip on towpaths and such surfaces. However, they used to be puncture prone.
The latest version features a significant improvement in puncture resistance - though not as much as the Marathon + ones. The tread pattern also suits the wider MTB tyre much better. The central tread is thicker and the tyre runs really well and adds a great deal to the bike's efficiency. I use the Pluses on two other bikes and haven't had a visit from the puncture fairy yet, but know I will eventually. The Land Cruisers are very cheap, but I love them. Marathon Plus tyres are very heavy. That protection comes with a hefty weight cost.
Once the colder weather is set for the winter, I'm going to fit Schwalbe Ice Spiker tyres and commute throughout the winter, but those were VERY expensive.
Warwick that's a very interesting comment you made about the 27.5 inch Oxygen tyres, why did they go that route?
If you could turn the clock back and you had 2k to spend on an ebike, which one would you go for?
Btw do you know anything about saddles, need a big comfy one for my oversize rear…
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If you could turn the clock back and you had 2k to spend on an ebike, which one would you go for?
Btw do you know anything about saddles, need a big comfy one for my oversize rear…
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If you're not careful Andy, someone will come along and tell you that what you need is bike XYZ and that it's worth every penny of the £4500 price tag.
Have you ridden any yet?
Tom
Possibly but from where I am would need a flight to cebu or manila, the roads here not conducive for cycling but we have pedicabs for public transport.
Which brand and type of crank drive do you favour?
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Look at the tyres from this pedicab, I've seen the pedicabs loaded with as many as 5 x 70kilo passengers plus a rider but rarely do they suffer a puncture.Possibly but from where I am would need a flight to cebu or manila, the roads here not conducive for cycling but we have pedicabs for public transport.
Which brand and type of crank drive do you favour?
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It's actually an irrelevance for the most part Andy but can present problems when things go wrong.
Philosophically, I like the crank-drive system with battery inside the frame triangle for best balance of the heavy components. Internal hub gearing, which is very nice and generally very reliable nowadays, can be problematic on some bikes if rear wheel removal is necessary at the roadside. Fortunately, many punctures can be mended without wheel removal.
A front wheel motor is probably the easiest to work on as one electrical plug connector is all that separates the motor wheel from a normal bicycle wheel, the rest of the bike being like any normal bike. Rear hub motor with derailleur gearing is no more difficult than a regular derailleur-equipped wheel except for the electrical connection which should be straightforward.
Having one of each in my stable, the FWD is the easiest to manhandle and work on - in the case of mine, it happens to be the lightest by some margin. The crank-drive I have is the heaviest and the most awkward to work on outside of a workshop with a stout bike stand. My RWD hub is a bit light at the front and very heavy at the back though it doesn't manifest that imbalance in normal riding. It is probably my favourite these days of my three EAPCs but I would not rule out any set-up just because of motor position.
'd8veh' has built and ridden a whole range of EAPCs as have some other members. I'm sure they would all agree that there is no need to spend a fortune to buy a very serviceable machine and if you don't want to or can't go down the road of self-build, there are some very decent, capable bikes from which to choose without going any further afield than the sellers who contribute to this forum.
Tom
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