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Agree with KudosDave on the economy of kit building, but that's not always the only criteria. If you have a bike you like, that suits you well and you have basic mechanical/electrical skills/tools, then DIY can be a good choice. If you build it, you can fix. You can also tinker with it to get...

Ok, so I got the six LED headlight, £9.41 from above post, thanks to Geebee for the tip. Here is some empirical data, and some less than empirical data. The unit comprises 6 SMD LED's, each with its own reflector. There is a large heat sink on the back end of the device, which is screwed on...

Those MoveYourLife bikes look a bit like a sexed up Powabyke.

You DO want to sort that out, otherwise it will wear the sensor casing away, and destroy it. Can you get a cable tie on to the crank axle to hold the magnet ring further out?

I agree with others who have said BPM. I think you need to go 500w, and I suggest putting it in the rear. If your donor bike is more than 7 speed, then go with the Bafang CST instead (Cassette version of the BPM). I often tow my lad on his bike behind my CST motored bike. As far as £3000...

I always wondered what that was all about. Another mystery of life solved!

I wouldn't get hung up about front motors, they do have some advantages. If you have never tried one though, I admit they sound intuitively wrong. In the real world on the road you'll rarely feel he difference. If you are off roading, things may be different.

It a tricycle, so it can be up to 60kg and still be classed as a bike.

Snowboarding helmet for me (most of the time). Argos, £20 in the sale. It feels more substantial than a cycle helmet. I have no evidence of this, but my guess is it would offer more protection in a crash. Somewhere between a cycle and m/c helmet at a guess. It has detachable ear muffs, great...

Yes, looks like the cell is 2.75ah@ about 1/3C rate. I expect at 1C it would be around 2.5ah (2500mah).

I can vouch for that. My Schwalbe Fat Frank's (marked as 2.3) are a smidge wider than my DMR motors (marked as 2.5)

Best way is to stick a load on them, see what they do. Something like a car rear light bulb works well, as it will draw around 1a. Then use a meter to measure current, and another to measure volts. See how long it takes to drop to 3.2 v I've re-celled my drill and handheld VHF marine radio...

I think the width quoted on the tube is about how thick the rubber is. If you have a thin tyre, you only need thin rubber, but with a wide tyre the tube will be stretched pretty thin by the time it's inflated to fill the gap. I always go for the ones that go up to 2.5 , as I run 2.5 tyres...

Yup, I've done fronts and rears , both steel and ally, all with files. Really does not take long. I can do both sides in about 5-10 mins

If it's steel or alluminium alloy, then a round and a flat bastard file will do the job just fine. Available from nearly anywhere.

Hmm, nice find. I've been asked by a mate to come up with a bright light for shooting rabbits, with a lithium battery pack this could be the answer.

With TNT, I normally get an invoice between 2-5 weeks later for import duties.

I reckon it the BPM motors, or lacing them into a rim that's the problem.

No, it took 6 weeks before they sent it. After that I presume it came by air. The battery had a sticker on it declaring it as a 3.2v power supply.

The last order I put in with BMS took about 6 weeks before it was dispatched. After that, it arrived within a week or so, and I had to pay £60 import taxes on a £390 order. My guess is that they are having trouble keeping up with demand. My order was for a battery (10ah shrink wrap), a rear BPM...