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Perhaps it's 5 hall sensor wires, and one speed/temperature/something else sensor on the original motor?

Those motor ratings are a bit arbitrary. 350w rating really means that the motor maker designed it to run continuously at that power consumption, without melting. They also probably built in a safety factor, so it will probably run at a continuous 500w quite happily. So it's not really a power...

Funny, because I'm just about to do a similar thing, although with a 500W BPM, s9 controller and 10ah batt. My logic was that the BPM was only a bit more expensive in 500w version, but then I will have the option to run it harder in future if needed.

I use mine differently, depending on situation. If I'm going to a meeting on a warm day wearing a shirt, I will be letting the bike do most of the work. I'll pedal, but not put in a lot of effort so that I arrive looking like the chauffeur dropped me at the front door. If I'm coming home, I'll...

When I upped my SWX from 24v to 36v I didn't see as much of a torque increase as I'd expected. Plenty more speed, but not much more torque. Soldering the shunt had more of an impact. However, that was with a 7.5 amp controller (IIRC)

If it was me, I'd order the ku65 with the battery, and keep hold of it. Then install the battery with the original controller, see how it goes, safe in the knowledge that if it goes bang you have a replacement. If you want a bit more torque, solder the shunt in the original. I think you would...

Sorry Dave, our posts crossed. I agree, it's worth doing, and if your putting in a new controller with a higher current then it will be greatly improved.

Blimey, there's a lot of BS and miss information in this thread! 1. These adjusters are nearly always an alluminium alloy. 2. They nearly always constitute two parts. One part is the adjuster, the other part a lock nut. 3. Both parts are slotted so that cables can be removed and replaced...

The increase in voltage probably won't give you a great deal more torque. Assuming you can override any speed limit the controller imposes (if it does that) then you should get a speed increase, somewhere about 5 mph extra (probably, ish). To get more torque you need to increase the current...

A couple of alternatives for you: Schwalbe Big Apple or Fat Frank. I have done nearly 2000 miles on my Franks, no punctures. (That's jinxed it!). If you want comfort, these are excellent. http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/fat_frank I have done about 400 miles on a pair of DMR...

I never have those crimps to hand, but I always have a load of bootlace ferrules. I find the black ones fit just right, and look quite smart. I always leave a couple of inches sticking out, so In can cut and 're-crimp if I need to. Here's what I mean:

I take a different opinion here Neptune. I am constantly amazed by the compatibily between brands. My experirinces with mid and low end bikes is that the parts are largely interchangeable. Any old 6 speed freewheel will work with Any old 6/7 speed derailer and chain, and any old 6 speed changer...

I bought one of these last week: (sorry, gave up trying to insert the link, ebay "shimano rs35", I paid about £8.50") ..as you say, its just about the distance per shift that's important. I fitted this to a 6 speed freewheel, with an old SIS derailer. Works ok, but as others suggest, it's not...

Yes, but all the maths has been based on 240 x 1.8a, which is probably not the case. The charger will most likely put OUT 1.8a at 42v, giving 76w, so allowing for some losses, you could call it 100w.

That'll be a nice place to ride around.

Trex is right. Your charger is not 240v x 1.8a, it's 42v at 1.8a, giving 76w.

Welcome to the Forum YP. Where in Devon? I'm just outside Exeter.

One tip for Halfords: Always buy online, and do a collect in store. The other day In was there to pick up a new chain. £3.99 online. The bloke in the queue in front of me bought the exact same chain and paid £12.99. They have some good deals if you look closely. Continental inner tubes are...

I would guess a broken throttle. Often when they fail they send the full throttle signal. It could also be that you accidently connected it the wrong way (just a possibility). As for the box, I'm guessing its a 36v, 18 Amps Peak controller.

Ah, good news, and I retract my accusation of selfishness. Glad your ok CL.