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OK Robin, I give up. Do me a favour please; don't ride it on a pavement near me.;)

Throttles fail. I've been through two. When they fail, they often do so in the wide open state. That's what the brake switches are for.

BPM it is then. I fitted one to a friend's bike a few weeks ago. We bought the 500w version, but only run it at 250w. Works quite nicely like that, but she's about 60kilos soaking wet.

How many gears on the Mongoose? If it's 8 speed (and you want to keep it so) then you might have to go with Bafang CST. D8veh, do those DNP freewheels come in 8 speed? If your Mongoose has Aluminium forks, then rear wheel drive is the best option. 250w is widely regarded as the limit on ally forks.

(....insert your own Brokeback Mountain/sore bottom joke here.....)

Sheldon's advice is always spot on.

They are right. Being able to reach the ground while sat in the saddle is not the goal. I seem to remember lots of peeps trying to tell you how to set the saddle height in a previous thread.

I've now put about 80 miles on the Brooks B67. I have not had R's ache once. I regularly ride with a laptop in a back pack, a load of other gubbins, and I'm no seven stone weakling. Can't recommend it highly enough.

The problem is that many of the best value pedelecs are not available on the scheme. Are Kudos or Woosh involved? (I don't know the answer BTW).

My advice is forget the cycle to work scheme. It's debatable whether it will save you money, but it will certainty limit your choice.

First decision is front or rear, or possibly crank drive. If you want to keep the 9 speed cassette, and want rear hub motor you will need a cassette motor. Bafang CST for example, but not the BPM. If your forks are rigid, then they are probably steel. If they are chunky, then you can put a...

I think you can change the bars easy enough, the problem will be extending all the cables - Brakes, shifters, throttle, control panel etc. - there doesn't look like much slack. How much higher do you want them to be?

I'm sure it can be done. Post a picture of the current setup and someone will be able to advise you.....

Hi, welcome to the forum.

Cut one of them first. You have a 50/50 of getting the correct one first time out. If that doesn't work, do the other as well.

**** me, I thought your views on throttles were extreme!

Looks like you may have to identify the brake switch wires, (probably two cores) and cut them. From your description of the fault it sounds most likely to be a brake sensor issue. If you cut them, do it so you can re-connect easily. You may have to short them as well. Suggest you cut them...

I've had a few saddles over the years, and I just got a Brooks B67 as an early birthday pressie. It's really comfortable. You don't say what model Brooks you have, but I find the springs help a lot on bikes with no suspension.

The three yellow/green/blue wires are probably power to the motor. Leave those connected. You need to trace the wires from the brake lever to the box. They probably go through that board, so follow the tracks, then work out what cores they are connected to, and follow those back to controller...

D8veh is referring to the cables that come from the brake levers to the controller, not the brake actuating cables. They have switches in them that cut power, and the suspicion is that somethings failed. Disconnect to eliminate them from the equation. It's possible that you have hidden wire...