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You multiply one by the other, to give Wh (Watt hours). So the Kuo has 216Wh, and the Secret 288Wh. Both bikes use brushless DC hub motors, which is the norm these days. I had a quick try of the Kudos at an event once, I liked it. Folders aren't really my thing though.

I'm ginger, so I'm waiting for the FGCAB series.

You see that bell on the handlebar? I have one and I use it to stop the LCD from hitting the ground when upside down. You could have one each side....

Agreed. Whats the point in having a powerful 1000w motor if you are constantly worried about using all your battery capacity? I suggest that 20ah is a more suitable size for a 1kw kit. Alternatively, come down to 500w, where I 15ah will get you 25-35 miles (ish)

Nearly all MTB/upright handlebars are 22.2mm at the grip end.

I have purchased batteries from vbat a few times, and I can vouch for them. If they say they are suitable for electric vehicles, then they are. If you buy batteries from ebay, you take your chances. We have had a few people on here recently with new batteries that are clearly not suitable.

No matter how many cells you have, if you put them in series, the current will not increase. The voltage will increase. The point I'm trying to make is that 10 cells in series will only put out the same maximum current as 1 cell. 6.8 amps is not very much. Certainly not enough to get you to...

6.8 amps is too low. It might work, but is not worth having. 13.6 is borderline, perhaps if you are really light, on a light bike with a low geared motor and don't mind going slowly. Unfortunately you cannot change the laws of Physics.

Try vbat.co.uk They have 7ah deep cycle SLA's

The last one is the initial charge current. All the ones I've used previously are in the 4amp range.

Yup, Jackhandy makes a good point. Stuff from China comes with no warranty. Personally that's no problem for me, I'm happy to risk it for the cost saving. YMMV.

If it's the hard tail that you want to convert, then you don't need to spend £1k. £650 will get you a kit with a 20ah battery from BMSbattery in China. Or you could look at a kit from ezee or whoosh in the UK, or 8fun. You need to work out things like expected top speed, legality, control...

Hopefully not 'zactly the same.;)

It says on the spec that the max discharge is 6.8A, which is very low current on a pedelec. You would need at least 2, maybe 4 sets of 10 in parallel to get anything much out of them. Then you will need some kind of BMS, or else be very careful how you charge/discharge them. I have also heard...

The second link in you OP, on the data sheet page, toward the bottom.

On the menu on top right, select 'Timeline'

I think what Boris is getting at, is that the 'more info' tab says continuous 20a, while the 'data sheet' tab says 10a. Same with the 36v one.....

So, who's going to be the first to take punt on it? One of my friends is on the lookout for a smaller battery, this might be just right. If that's the case, I will have a barely used, 6 month old 36v/20ah shrink wrap battery for sale, and s12 controller....

The specific batteries I used were Denka 12140EV's. They were very good.

I'm guessing you have 3 or 7 hub gears on that bike? Unless it's fixed speed? In that case, I recommend a front hub motor. 8fun do some good kits, ebay, £400 (ish) As D8veh says, if you need to get it fitted by a shop, that's where the cost becomes prohibitive, or borderline. If you are...