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Great writeup D8veh, very useful indeed.

A browser will work just fine, but tapatalk is a dedicated forum reader for android, and is a bit slicker. It all just works a bit better, without having to zoom in/out all the time. You can also set it up to have all your forums in the same place, with the same interface for all. Personally, I...

After allowing the battery to fully charge, voltages are pretty much the same as before. Tomorrow I will put a load on the high cells, and bring them down to 4.05v each, and then put back on charge. What would people consider a reasonable tolerance on balanced cells to be?

I think of my electric bikes in exactly the opposite way, but with the same result. My motto is: 'It ain't sport, it's tran-sport' ((c) Mike H, 2013). Welcome, and glad to hear that it works for you.

Thanks all for the advice. I went with the 'run and see what happens' option, and after a three mile hard run the charger has kicked in. As ever, d8veh spot on. Will test and report back voltages shortly.

Thanks Frank, but I only used the 5.2 v charger to get a little current flowing, monitoring the voltage all the time. When I took the battery apart I found a bad weld between two cells. I assume this is why the battery was considered faulty. It was 36v before I fixed the weld, now its just over...

Would I be better to connect to a bike and go and ride it a bit, then charge it and see?

Hi All, Trying to balance up a 10ah lithium battery that has been stored unused for a long time. I have 10 cells, with voltages ranging between 3.99v and 4.16v. The one at 3.99 started at 3.97 v, but I have had a 5.2v mobile phone charger on it for an hour or so and its rising. Question is...

Thanks all, I'm pretty much convinced orange is charger negative. Will see what results I get with a meter, and probably remove the circuit board to be sure.

Hi all, I hope someone can offer some advice, as I'm not that familiar with Lithium batteries and BMS's. I have a lithium battery here that I have taken apart. The connections are as follows: Before I blow anything up, can anyone confirm my assumptions: 1. Battery output is via...

That is a proper minger. And SLA's on a £700 machine? Pointless.

+ 1 for that, I just bought one too. Just what I needed as my old one (tesco £10 quid cycling helmet) is on it last legs. Very comfy, and the extra weight doesn't bother me. Thanks!

Personally, I would just replace the entire thing, especially with that many miles on it. BMS battery have complete kits (without battery) for about £100 plus shipping + tax.

A battery drill is a much better tool for driving screws in. Even a cheap B n Q 14v will do a good job. Unless I'm missing something here, and a battery screwdriver is euphemism for something else....

Do you think mine will do that if I solder the shunt?

I have Schwalbe Fat Frank's on my bike. They are fantastic. Super comfy, and a lot faster than you would think.

I have used www.vbat.co.UK before, and purchased deep cycle SLA's. 3 x 14Ah SLA's cost me about £100, but you may get better price on eBay. A setup like that will add 15 kilos to the weight, and rack mount is probably the only option. In my case, I had a range c. 15 miles, with 250 w motor, on...

I'm similarly sized to you, and I tried a Cudos Secret at eden. It performed pretty well, and is about £700 I think.

JackHandy, Haha, I tend to create a fair amount of down force, so lack of grip has never been a problem. I've moved over to schwalbe Fat Franks and rarely lose grip even on up hill gravel tracks. All that said, I'm convinced to go RWD for this build, if only so I can do donuts while testing!

Thanks for the reassurance about the forks, and it is interesting to note that the Q128 is over rated. I'm pretty sure its a Q128 now I've looked it up, and D8veh's results confirm my gut feelings about it. I think that the suggestion of a rear CST (be it 350 or 500 watt) is probably what I...