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I have just come back from testing the battery on my trek, which runs at a peak just over 15A. I did a moderately hilly 8 mile trip, with no cutouts. I used about 3.5ah, and I used about 2ah yesterday on the Butler (when it cutout). So, it does look like a current limiting problem. I double...

If you were closer I would offer to help, but I'm in the SW.

I have heard good things about the Powabyke, and they look pretty robust. SLA's can be replaced for about £100 when you need to, but I would consider going to Li-ion at that point, as it works out cheaper in the end if you are using it a lot. (more charge cycles) I can well imagine the fun you...

Hmmm, I cant decide if its a faulty BMS or just that the new ones will only run at 15A. Either way, looks like I need to change it. BMS Battery are being no help here, because they are saying that the battery is 15A continuous. They just keep telling me to keep current under 15A - not easily...

Hi Beach, welcome to the forum. I'm guessing you have a Powabyke, probably one of the older models with the battery along the twin crossbar? Just a guess.

You might be right Frank. Now I look at the website, the 20ah battery is listed at 15a continuous. I thought they were 20a continuous. If that's true, then BMS battery do not supply batts big enough for the controllers they sell. The weird thing is that I have a 6 month old, seemingly...

So I have a new battery from BMS battery here, and its faulty. If I ride the bike for about 5 mins or so, the battery cuts out, and will not restart until it been disconnected and reconnected. Also have to wait a bit. I have just taken it for a spin, and got it to cut out. Rode it home...

I guess there are people here who can help. What location?

Out of curiosity, I tested a reasonable quality alkaline pp3, by shorting and measuring the current. It gave around 5amps, but with a massive voltage sag.

I wonder what power is required to offset the additional weight of the electric bits? If it's anywhere near 70 watts.....

I think its the same picture he uses on Grinder.

I picked up a heated body warmer and insoles from Maplin last year. They work a treat. As for your battery idea, it should work. You might want to measure the current with a 9v alkaline first, then compare with the lithium. It's possible that the alkalines internal resistance is the limiting...

Loving your work sir! A spot welder made from wood, who'd a thunk it! Excellent job dude!

If you can get hold of a trek Clyde, and want front wheel drive, things are easy. The trek is all standard MTB bits, but with non sus, steel forks, 4 speed shimano nexus hub gears and V brakes. Comes with flat bars that really need to be swapped for something more laid back (whick means new...

You can't take the cost of Diesel into account when calculating cost/mile of an electric bike.

50p/mile? I could run a Jag for that sort of money. Seroiuosly, I run a 1.8 petrol Focus for about 32p/mile all in. It has roof bars, air con and I drive it like I'm late for my appointment at Dignitas.

I came a cropper a few weeks back, off road. Crashed the bike into a river, and hit my knee on the big chainring. I managed to ride home, fix up the bike, check my phone wasn't drowned, then I had a look at my sore knee: I was wearing a helmet, but perhaps knee pads from now on.

Excellent! Did you ask him what sort of range he got?

I've done it too, but I've never made it to the shops and back. For a bike you will need three of 'em for a start, and the high discharge ones (starter batteries) dont like being fully discharged often so you would have about 25 ah of usable charge. Next question: Where can I get a 75 kilo...

Yes and no. It's all about how much current (Amps) can be supplied by the battery. Car batteries are Lead Acid, and this technology cannot supply anywhere near the amount of current (pound for pound) of modern lithium based batts. That said, it will work, albeit with reduced performance and/or...