Search results

d8veh has pointed out (quite rightly) that the sticker on the motor is not relevant to the power. The power is governed by the voltage (battery) and current (controller). The sticker is only relevant when the glue melts and centrifugal force sends it flying.

d8veh constant: I x V = 250 I'm gonna get some stickers printed up with the constant printed on them, just incase I forget. Probably keep one on my bike somewhere :-) Might have to stick one on this thread too.

For reference, my current main bike setup is: Q128 motor, fwd 500w controller 20ah 36v BMS shrink wrap battery, on rear rack. Me:18st, pedaling moderately hard. Cruise at about 18-20mph Range approx 40 miles on flat - moderate terrain.

My guess, quite easy to convert. V brakes make things slightly easier. Have a look at BMS battery (google it) and see what price for a hub conversion kit. You will need a battery as well. A bpm/cst hub motor kit and a 10ah battery will come in under £500 delivered. Probably give you a 20 - 30...

I have a pair of these on order: RALEIGH North Road Rounder RETRO Bicycle Alloy Handlebar NEW | eBay And one of these to contain the battery: New Type Cycling Sports Bike Bicycle Frame Pack Rack Pannier Soulder Bag Black | eBay

Yes, I've been using it for the last 1200 miles or so, on my mountain bike. And yes, probably gutless by modern standards, but just about enough for my needs. The trek will become my day to day bike, and the mountain bike will get a new rear drive kit (possibly a CST or similar) and be used...

So the next project is a proper cruiser. Basic bike spec: Aluminium frame. Steel forks. Rim brakes front and rear. 4 speed shimano nexus hub. Additional items to be added: Some big cruiser bars. Home made rear rack (ally, similar to D8veh design but without boot bag). Mudguards. Battery...

Aside from a bit of tidying up, the picture above where this is project has finished, as she's decided a rear seat not required. Really easy conversion, and highly recommended as a donor bike. Time for the next build....

Measuring voltage will give you an approximation. You will need to know what the type of battery, and wait for a bit between using and measuring to let it all stabilise. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Me too. I was working outdoors programming computer systems, sitting down all day. It was January, and about freezing point all day. These were brilliant. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Flecc mentioned Germany once, but I think he got away with. Any one for hors d'oeuvres? Hors d'oeuvres which must be obeyed! Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk now Free

Crikey, I thought I was the only person with an electric CB stoneriver, in silver, with black forks. Mine has a different kit though. Hope your customer gets his bike back.

Ok, here we go. I have successfully installed a kit onto the Africabike, in order to test things. Rough n ready for the moment but working perfectly. The wife is over the moon with it!

Looks like my next project will be to convert a Kona Africabike three to electric. The Africa is basically a rugged utility machine: Step through frame. 3 speed nexus hub gears. Back pedal rear brake. Front V brake. Rear rack is part of the frame. 26" wheels, chunky tires. 7005 frame, steel...

As far as I'm aware we still have a two tear system, with 5% being the lower rate. So, if the will was there it could be implemented easily.

Probably 250watt. Normally its written on the controller, but sometimes is quoted as current. Probably around 10 amps.

D8veh is the expert, but to reassure you until he gets here, controllers are not expensive. Normally less than £30.

That's just bragging.

Me: 6ft, 40.5 inch (1.03 m) 'Er: 5ft6, 36 inch (0.91m) Boy: 3ft9, 25 inch (0.64m) (floor to top of saddle) Note that 'Er could best be described as a reluctant cyclist, and boy is 5 years old.

I would guess 50-60m.