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The battery is knackered , tell tale sign is under load and the 9 year age of it. Nearly any knackered battery will work with no load. Simply wire up a meter to the battery wires and watch the voltage under load on a ride, one will see the voltage sag heavily or in your case just collapse to 30v.

The pad/button press procedure is the same just a bit more fiddly for fat fingers. One has only the same 5 secs when turning on to get into the basic features then on to the advnaced.

Small motors tend to be for bespoke builds or kits like the Swytch which are not very good value for money imv, vfm imv is dependant on hoe you look at things and ones own ability. I simply followed a few tutorials on wheel building and then started my own building, the first one was a bit of a...

No. I bought mine before Covid and build all my own wheels, nearly all the good stuff comes via China sellers if one doesn't want to pay for dear parts or kits.

Going back to a light kit in most cases one will have to cobble one together separately when wanting a light motor and specific wheel size as the wheel will most likely have to be built.

For a light weight motor sub 2kg one will have to buy one from topbikekit. The G370 from bafang is a good little motor and I can vouch for it's unpowered riding ability with the 1:14:6 internal gear reduction (it rides effortless unpowered) I have the 201rpm 36v motor and run it both 10s & 12s...

It's not the exact one but is similar, it shouldn't be an issue.

He has a brushless motor as it can be seen via the pics, the controller is three phase. Not 100% sure but also looks like a sensored motor as I see a 5 wire connector block( #1) which looks consistent with the DJ7061 series used for Hall wires.

Tony 1951 one can't be flippant with remarks regarding batteries as they can cause nasty fires, even lion batteries. It is a duty I believe of us guys to make users aware of potential risks, for the most part most of us don't scare monger but do offer up sound practical help. When re-celling...

The proof in the pudding is the longevity of the batter y as mentions over the next 18 months - 2 years and good usage. One can't say the battery is very good if it doesn't get used much and as Chris's use at the mo is just for 4 or 5 miles it doesn't really test it to see the full potential or...

End of the day it will depend on the current draw one needs for the controller and only by talking to the guy will you know if he can manage it. Chris's battery did look good and nothing like the face thing picture in the link that was offered up.

LCD4 setting procedure is exactly the same, all 5x P, all 14 x C parameters & the basic tabs. On the main screen the only difference is one doesn't get the watts output or amb temp on the screen.

A quick easy manual assessment to rule out a controller or motor phase issue. Disconnect the battery leave the controller to hub motor connected rotate the wheel by hand fwd, if there is severe stiff resistance then there is a phase short. Disconnect the hub /controller connection and try the...

The only chance of getting hold of an Ananda is by looking on ebay, occasionally one may appear. Generally we recommend to buy a more readily available brand and KT are the most sellable items for retro fitting. Many vendors sell them mainly from China or one can buy from UK sources at a much...

The cheapest reputable good cells one can get is about £1.50 - £2 for good China brands. 24v will be about £60 & 36v about £80 just for the cells. As mentioned by CB the guy isn't hardly making much money from a battery using all new cells or ones all of the same type (even if recycled good...

The app is obviously wrong.

I would be inclined to get a full refund as Swtych appear to be less then helpful at times, Woosh sell there own version of a Brommie kit and one will get a far better service and back up. The noise you hear is an electrical sync one and sounds like the controller isn't recognising the motor...

Sounds pretty normal to me, cold batteries act differently and don't accept the full Ah but will show near full voltage. A lessen learnt make sure batteries are at ambient room temp for a couple of days before attempting charging, never though leave to close to a very hot source.

The comma is how the Europeans use it 4,2v where as we denote it as 4.2v. The graphs I posted are independent ones tested by a Dane.

Wisper bikes with full throttle are legal as they are legally tested and registered/type rated as LP250w pedelecs a class that DVLA allow in the UK barring NI. Each bike has to be tested to see it complies. See this thread here Law change? | Pedelecs - Electric Bike Community