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That's a good controller as long as you have the essential LCD to go with it. You need to cut the connector off your motor cable, then solder all the thin wires to the wires in the white block connector, which should match colour to colour. You should leave the three thick wires unsoldered at...

I hadn't seen the explanation of the torque sensor and its wires before that are in the picture in a post above. The torque sensor output is in the same range as a throttle. It would be interesting to connect the red, yellow and black to the throttle connector of a normal controller to see how...

You need to show which controller you have and all its wires and connectors spread out so that we can see them properly.

I'm not sure I understand your question, but you can buy a controller and everything that goes with it from BMSBattery and Aliexpress. you will need at least a new LCD (recommend LCD3)...

You can try it to see if it makes a difference. No harm will come as long as you make sure that the colours of the wires in the connector are the right sequence. Please let us know whether there's a difference.

Anything can happen in the future. You live in the present, so make the most of it while you can.

I've not had one of those controllers, but I can see that it's double length, so would have double the output circuits, which would be 17 amps each and 34 amp total. there won't be many circumstances where you need or will get that much current, so any battery with a BMS that can give at least...

What motor do you have, as it changed round about that time, so could be either?

Lets hope you get some answers from other people then. I'm out now as you don't seem to value my answers.

Why have you duplicated your question from the other thread? That's bad etiquette, especially as dialogue started in reply before you posted this. It gives the impression that you're not interested in the answers.

I'm sure I'm right as I've done it loads of times.Say what you think the problem is, so I can put you at ease.

The wires are different between the two Oxygen systems. What do you think the problem is with the speedo reading?

Better still, upgrade the controller and LCD to KT. It costs about £70. Someone has already done it if you search back through posts/threads on this subject.

Duplicate thread. Please do not reply.

Try Neodrives: https://www.neodrives.com/en/drive-system/z20/z20-lcd/ or any of these. Set to 200km: https://www.neodrives.com/en/service/dealer-locater/

Are you saying that the motor only goes 3mph or that it spins up to full speed, but only shows 3mph on the display?

I would cut the connector off the brake to expose the wires, then it should be obvious which is which by the colours. They all need to be connected to the controller. The signal and ground wires go to the 2-wire brake connector on the controller and you need to provide a 5v by splicing a wire...

They're just experiencing the illusion. The first guy is using a speed controller, so when he's riding on level 3, the motor is helping him to say 12mph with 250w and he feels that it's his pedalling that is keeping him at that speed, but he's only producing about 60w, which is nowhere near...

That's a normal lithium battery. In nearly all cases of perceived drag, it's an illusion. Occasionally people have their wheel rubbing on something or their brakes not properly adjusted. In very rare cases, the clutch gets stuck on, but you can test that by rotating the wheel forward and...

Both of those batteries will be fine. It's just a question of how much capacity you want for your range.