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The blue wire voltage is a return switched voltage via the display, this voltage powers the 5v rail for PAS/throttle etc.

I think for a front motor the AKM100 is likely the best candidate for 100mm drop out width, though predominantly it does mean buying from Topbikekit. The xf07 yes is a bit weak for serious hills.

It's a shame to here you are still having issues and guess like all things there will be a faulty one or a batch of components somewhere. Inherently I have heard little of any problems with the kits and my Kickstarter one is still going well, my only gripe is that occasionally I knock the rear...

One will need a hub built in to a wheel I would say firstly contact Woosh to see which kits they have and I wouldn't rule out a front motor wheel. Unless experienced then getting one built may be an issue, most LBS don't or won't touch them. A battery for 20 miles and hills will need to be 12...

Show us a pic of the bike and then we can see what might suit best. For you needs the ideal kit will be a cadence PAS one with 5 power levels , a simple pedal rotation kit that can propel you along with ease and of course a thumb or twist throttle that should get you home. A bike with a...

Latest official Gov figures for casualties, likely not the true known figures as a lot of accidents may go unreported. Reported road casualties Great Britain: e-Scooter factsheet year ending June 2021 - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk)

From the UK Gove website, whether this is the true record one never can know but it is the official figures for known casualties. Reported road casualties Great Britain: e-Scooter factsheet year ending June 2021 - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk)

Have any tsdz owners carried out the heat sink mods internally as well as the osf tweaks ?

Your safety is on your head, should the wheel decide to rotate out it will rip the wiring away or short out as well as likely injuring you worse. I wouldn't take the risk on your mates expert opinion. If the wheel isn't fitted correctly or the bike fitting not suitable then don't use it. e-...

I can't see very clearly form the pics, but what I can see is that this particular SB is not designed or the drops outs suitable for a fat wheel. I don't know much about these type of motorbike frames but unless the dropouts are actually designed for a wider wheel axle then it is wholly...

We need to know if this is a torque sensor or a cadence sensor ? Why on earth anyone would comprehend buying an e bike from them or even taking one to them is beyond me.

I have to say the 9fet Kt and G370 combo is pretty ultra quiet in use for a front hub set up and is so far to date the best hub I have fitted not only quiet but so light and rideable with no power, tbh with no power one wouldn't realise it really was fitted. The alfine8 now I have refitted it to...

It sounds like the fat hub is wholly unsuitable for the SB.

We need to see pics.

When it cuts out under throttle one will have stop using the throttle and opt to use PAS1 or 2 to reduce the current load/voltage sag. My Sam 29e's acted like yours but were a lot worse, my 14.5ah battery would do about 20 miles in PAS2 and about 40in PAS1, If I used throttle I barley got many...

The old BBS01 works out £217.68 but not sure if vat has to be added ? I'm nearly tempted for the bare unit as I have a c961 and all the other bits. I will probably hold off as I'm now using 12s & 13s so will likely plump for a 48v tsdz.

For voltage one may have to fit the KT lcd3 and reprogram it as it has the voltage settings, if the vlcd5 doesn't have the settings in the first place it won't be able to display it.

Motor axle not seated fully is asking for trouble, motor wire should not be touching any moving part. All in all sounds like a not so good installation.

Someone on here may have already opened a HESC hub up, a forum search may show up a thread. The axle is fixed, once the planet gears are exposed the hub is held in by strong magnetic force field. The motor has 16 - 20 magnets around the circumference and they form a force field to the motor...

4.9v is good, likely the meter calibration is a lightly erroneous but not hugely. 3v isn't good nor that is doesn't switch so looks like a new hall sensor is needed.