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As I say ignore the 250/350/500w rating that sellers use and be guided by the current rating of the controller, the current rating needs to be a bit less then the specs of the battery continuous current. Some so called 250/350w cheaper controllers only have a 13a current rating whilst other...

It's sub 1k so will like a lot of bikes be of generic china components mechanical and electrical, easy to repair and should the electronics go wrong less then £100 to replace everything (bar the battery & hub motor) to a better set up later on. It will work and do the job for pottering around on...

A good bargain for someone and would make for an excellent first foray into ebikes or make a very good spare backup bike, less then £200 will get it working with a new battery or someone with the knowhow could do something with it for less then £100 and. A good working one then could likely get...

The fido is an illegal bike so how the system works I don't know, if the throttle overrides the PAS then it is not an eapc.

The UK warehosue is just convenient redirect front where the company doesn't pay tax but the end user will do, likely one of the many companies RM have on there radar for the collection of duties due. I haven't ordered yet but expect a similar affair if I order a tsdz from Risunuk.

I always ignore controller watts rating and match the current max rating for my battery and needs. Making my own batteries I always opt for a 25/30a continuous BMS so I can use the larger 9 fet controllers and use now 20a rated good cells (if available).

Yep the kt short for use without a display one won't get throttle but will get PAS 1 only for low power. If one hasn't an end cap simply buy a julet 5 pin green with wire tails and short the desired wires together and heat shrink them, then shrink the whole lot afterwards. Once confirmed all is...

As long as the battery is only two connection then it is generic. The TS makes little sense with a hub motor but each to there own, Ii the TS controller available a spare on it's own should is need replacing in the future.

The motor connector is a std 9 pin layout so any controller/display comb will work. The pas and throttle if used may not depending on the connector type. Bafang use higo type connector for the peripheral's and KT use Julet or sm block connector's, higo and julet aren't compatible wiring wise as...

Hub are simple they don't have protocols, they work with any controller/display combo that are compatible with each other. If the hub has the waterproof julet connector then you can upgrade to kt or bafang controller and display. The controller pic shows no connectors !!!

Can we have a pic of the controller wiring as well ?

The 18 km/h cut off is low, have you tried entering the settings to change it ? Although uart one won't be able to use any other digital display like lishui or KT as the software is different, they would switch on but the comm's wouldn't be compatible and one would have very limited settings...

A couple of Q's. 1. Why /what reason do you want to upgrade ? 2. Which system do you want to upgrade too ?

Das boot what a great film along with the film score as well.

The latching occurs in the display and is what the on of button does, the 5v line is then route back to the controller once the display sees the correct battery value in the voltage range

Intelligent displays work with Lishui controllers, though I'm not 100% sure if lishui have to be programmed/paired up to always work correctly. I stepped away from any lishui brand stuff because of the lack of non oem parts, for the better I moved over to KT stuff.

The likely only route is a lithium re- cell, so one needs to find a competent person or company to do the job. Any new cells will need spot welding. In the UK we have at least one great company who can do this however you will have to search to see if anyone in NZ can do this. The multiwire...

With e bikes one can use no display by shorting the display supply wires together in a specific order though still needs PAS sensing for power, the power you get though is only the lowest level power mode.

As it has a drum brake it could be that or the internal motor clutch/nylon planetary gears are damaged, it will need the wheel removing and someone competent to open it to have a look at both parts, unfortunately a bike shop will not have a clue so it needs a more specialist seller or a diy...

Yes agree with flecc for that battery type/shape use the services of Jimmy for re-cell.