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Again another (most likely) crappy control system used with the hub, we keep telling peeps to use KT quality stuff that doesn't give the harsh take off that can take one unaware.

It's not the hub making the droning noise as there is nothing inside to cause it, the noise will be via the controller. Fit/buy a decent controller and the noise will be no more.

Mikey has been around for a while and is the owner of ebikeschool.com and also part of the vruzend battery kit company, he does quite a bot on the teaching sid eof how to build batteries.

Are you looking at hubs motors or mid motors ? What type of riding will it be ?

The worst item to use to lock a bike up with is a cable of any type , simple small pliers can be used to snip through it and small bolt croppers would treat them like soft cheese. Decent U locks over 16mm thick are best and an angle grinder is then needed.

I see the guys at empowered cycles use the KT lcd3 and 4 on their Tsdz's but one has to open the lcd's to individually preprogramme them as well as having to splice the tonsheng displays wiring to the KT displays, one then gets the full extra feature of the display functions like watts drawn...

Braking wise as kid we always used to use the rear as it was cool to skid everywhere, but we then didn't have to buy tyres etc as dad would do so. Once out of this stage one soon learnt that the best brake control is to bleed the braking by applying both brakes at the same times. it becomes...

The best thing is to buy a bike tat uses decent electronics that need no brake cuts outs, though often so many want a throttle then it is obligatory to fit at least one in case of a throttle failure to prevent a run away bike or a blown controller. With KT there is no real need for a throttle...

For 3 wire brakes one has to use hall effect brakes in the search.

If I have a brake cut out fitted I only have one fitted, two aren't needed. Just remember to use the front brake to cut any over run, get in to a habit of always applying the front gently as this is what I do. The front brake is far more important then the rear as the brake bias is better then...

2 pin brakes use a Reed sensor these don't need the 5v supply, the three pin brakes use a hall sensor so you have Gnd, 5v & signal. Simply put it is down to the type of sensor used in the levers.

The specs of the motor says that the motor rpm is 470 that is either a print error or if right a very high motor rpm, if you have any hills it will bog down and stall unless one can keep the motor spinning very fast. For PAS the pic's are 100% as we can't see the actual BB set up behind the...

If the original battery is a generic one with just a two wire connection then yes any suitable battery can be used, it would help though if we knew the bike and battery type so pics please.

If you want extra lines of power simply open the battery cradle/holder base and solder extra feeds to the discharge pins either via the same feed wire holes or drill a new hole an fit a grommet, add a fuse in line and a switch if needed,

Simply no, the charge circuit monitors and balances voltage one way via mosfets and bleed resistors. Attempting to take reverse power will lead to unbalance of the last cell group and there is no way off controlling the current draw, best to put the idea to bed and leave it there a sleep.

Are using julet or sm connector for the display ?

The blue wire sends a 5v signal back to the controller so if compromised one assumes the controller shuts everything down, once the 5v is confirmed then rx /tx comm's as we know send the correct protocols for the parameters to work. One assumes a switch/mosfet is used on the blue line.

A fault within likely then, a broken off wire from a solder pad or a broken wire in the cable ? Or may be just a faulty button switch.

Check for battery voltage on the wire supply to the display, if you get a good reading then the display may be faulty. One wants the Gnd & V+ wires/contacts.

My 12s2p uses Hg2 genuine cells and for my low current draw of about 2.6a in PAS 1 the capacity is approx. 5200mah out of the 6000mah. Max I have had is 30 miles typically though I charge after 25 miles at about 3.55v per cell.