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I'm not sure what you mean. If you mean that you can rock the arm back and forth in the fore and aft direction, that's normal.

Had somebody tried to seal the controller department? That's what normally drowns them.

No, it just makes them easier to get right. In theory, you have to pull the brake lever a bit harder, but I never noticed a difference.

That's always a problem. Here's what I do: Unclip the cable, like you do when you take the wheel off. Unscrew a whole arm from the fork using the hex screw at the bottom. Don't touch the brake block fixing. You'll see that it has a spring that engages with one of three holes next to the boss...

Racist!

It has at least two extra pins connected for whatever reason. They go to pins LA1 and LA2. It's not possible to say whether they're used. The only way to be sure is to open the battery and see whether the corresponding pins have wires on them and where they go. It could be a temperature sensor...

Still going strong: https://aima-tech.en.made-in-china.com/product-group/OohmcMQxqrRT/New-Product-catalog-1.html Facebook page featuring that bike: https://www.facebook.com/aimatech/

if it were a problem, we'd have loads of people coming on here and saying, "Why is my motor so weak?" That's never happened in the 10 years I've been on this forum., and many of us have run motors a long way above what the designers expected, like my 33 mph Cyclamatic Power Plus.

This one has been around for a couple of years, but I've never seen it mentioned before. It seems to be quite powerful if you can figure out how to derestrict it. The thing that sparked my interest is the torque sensor. All it is is an idler cog, held on a sprung lever to push against the chain...

I've got too many ants in my garden - definitely ANTS+. You can have as many as you want.

You won't get one like that unless the bike manufacturer has one in their spares dept. It's OEM only. To repair your bike, you'll need to do some cutting and joining of wires, soldering and stuff like that.

If the hall sensors don't switch, something is wrong. Possible causes, ranked in order of likeliness: 1. Corrosion is shorting them 2. Short in the motor cable has blown them 3. Somebody connected a high voltage to them 4. Extreme temperature has blown them I can't figure out whether you have...

It's a daft idea to use a dynamo on an electric bike. Think about it!

Show us photos.

There are loads of YouTube vids on how to fit these things.

One thing you can try is to ride it without power, first with the motor connector connected, then disconnected, to see if there's any difference. If it's worse connected, there could be a fault with the controller. When I rode one of those bikes, I was impressed by its power and how nice it was...

Www.ebikebatteries.co.UK If you look around this page, you should see one of their adverts.

You get the error code when the switch is on before you switch the controller on. it's telling you that the switch is stuck on, but if everything is assembled correctly, the switch will sort itself out as soon as you operate the brake. normally, when you get the error code with one of those...

How much range you get depends on two factors: 1 How many watt-hours you have; and 2 how fast you use them. If you used only full throttle and had 15 amp controllers in each , they would last equally long in time, i.e. 13/15 = 0.87 hrs, but you'd be going faster with 48v because you have more...

You can see one end of the reed switch connected to black and the other end to white. it's weird that it has so many wires and solder joints in it because it only needs two wires. You can make your own cable brake switches by taping a reed switch to your crossbar under one of the open cables...