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Battery on/off doesn't matter but the mains needs to be on so the charger capacitors are full before connecting.

Heat the solder and try a solder sucker if it doesn't come off by staying on the iron.

Only the top lip brand :p.

The CS HG41 is a freehub cassette, he has a cassette with the designation given.

Some of those models (early ones ) may have used KT controllers, can you look and tell us the name or writing on the controller. Also look on the rear of the display and tell us if anything is written on it.

All good. If one wishes, the sense wires can be soldered on the buss strip between +& -. Depending how the B- & V+ discharge wires re connected. If you want optimal current through the first and last cell group, solder each wire to the middle cell of the group so that current flows in from the...

Whether the freehub is faulty, either bearings or pawls you won't know till the cassette is remove. Also you won't know if the freehub if faulty will come off easily. With my bafang cst hub the freehub comes away easily but on my AKM hub the freehub is integrated in to the end plate, fortunately...

You need 12 x 10, might find one on ebay. Or make your own, have one or two made up.

Doesn't look as if it has a display connector, buy another decent controller with lcd display. The new one is 13a, do you know the current rating of the old one ?

It's not the speed but the torque/power he was incapable of handling, as far as can be deduced he wheelied. Apparently the power mapping isn't very gradual and is all or nothing, it sounds like he let rip with the throttle.

That's where the common sense comes in to play, one would have thought a rider would accustom them selves and be a little more familiar before trying to give it some large. A paid serf would have had more common sense and may have told him to get on his bike, which he did and look what happens...

If he already tops out at 18mph then it it derestricted so a faster hub will work, more Speed though will reduce range.

Buy the cassette hub from topbikekit, if you don't want 201rpm buy the 260rpm but it must be 48v and not 36v. 48v will be more efficient then overvolted 36v.

The super rich are fools with out an ounce of common sense to comprehend most common things, they rely on paid serfs to do anything for them

Tell us the max speed of the wheel off the ground and the wheel size, we can approximate the rpm.

The 36v 201rpm at 48v will spin faster at 270rpm so torque will be less, better off buying the 48v 201 rpm 128cst if you want torque. AKM-128CST 48V500W Rear Driving Hub Motor Cassette motor For ebike [AKM 128CST 48V500W motor] - $118.00 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce (topbikekit.com)

J, battery chargers are made with a many different charge connectors. Manufacturers typically can't all agree on unified connector, so Sans and many other make the same model chargers with different connectors. Your new charger will have 5.5mm x 2.1mm dc connector and I suspect your old bent...

Possible water ingress or the light shorting to stay on, battery will need to be opened to gain access to the light ?

Probably more then 400 rpm then ?

Not really unless they are 10 spd as well.