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Lots of differing views regarding cold and battery use, imho they do suffer with range when the ambient is very cold and as much as 10% or more capacity can be lost, even when charged at room temps.

There are two sizes 12 x 10 or 14 x 10 all in mm. 14 x 10 are normally for the DD hubs. All my geared hubs are 12 x 10, simply measure the hub axle end.

Display may not be 100% compatible or a setting not enabled ?

I expect the display turns on.

You buy the Julet with a wire tail, cut off the one on the brake and solder the three wires and cover with shrink.

Only one brake cut off is needed, as I found having two is a royal PITA. Cut off both connectors and solder/shrink the joint. Cut the brake connector off and solder/shrink a Female tail to it. M/M, M/F, F/M or F/F extensions can be bought, though you end up with a bit of a wire loop to hide.

Unusual to bend a Bottom Bracket so it is possible the bearings have had it and possibly have broken up, the tools vrf linked to are the ones to buy. Once the BB has been removed a new unit can be bought for about £10's.

Do the maths. 620wh compared to 500wh is a 24% increase so expect similar in range.

Fir any decent lighting direct from the bike power it really needs to com via the controller or a spur/splice off of the main v+/v- wiring.

Thru axles are thread on the other end so one has to unwind with the handle/lever, they can be a bit awkward to withdraw and align. The final tightening is still a cam lock operational afaik.

If the op buys the 6 -80v lights they already have the converter built in. The usb connection isn't suitable for lights they are mainly for phone charging but tbh pointless on an ebike.

The voltage are to far out for the BMS to balance, they will balance if all are close even 0.1v is far out. One will have to manually balance each cell group first then see if they stay balanced.

Voltage drop will be about 0.6 - 0.7v for 7 feet, 1 ft wold be about 0.09v. 125mr is high so those high cells will draw the pack down irrelevant of capacity equalisation.

I like my WTB tyres on 700c rims, TL or tubed they give good grip with the softer compounds. Nice for road use esp now.

Nothing wrong with the 2a generic controllers for dumb BMS/batteries, it is only if you have comm's CAN bus where issues will occur. All one has to make sure is that polarity and connector are the same.

There's one on ebay at the mo for about £83, though for less then that one can buy a complete KT controller kit replacement with lcd3 or 4.

Use a nice KT a current control controller with lcd3 or 4, you will have to use a new PAS sensor.

Brushed or brushless hub ? If brushed might be worn brushes ?

Battery can't supply the current demand and is sagging badly. Old/used cells not 100% matched capacity or IR wise only needs one or two bad cells to tip LVC once sag is induced. To make any more comments we need to know more details. Cell spec used and BMS rating ? Buss material & size used in...

Wiring between battery and controller on the v+/v-, add an inline fuse for protection.