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The recovery is worth it for an experiment on how to charge and try to recover cells, I expect if you can get them to a reasonable level the battery will likely sag vey badly. For Li all spec sheets have a min V level of about 2.5v per cell. Just be very careful charging and initially use very...

If one wants a natural feel riding feel then forget ebikes and buy a push bike (unpowered), how any of you protagonist's can keep saying more like a natural feel is beyond me when you have 500/600w of power at your feet. I rode my brothers TS bosch bike and all the crap I keep reading about...

The hub specs are 390 - 550rpm, depending which version is ordered/sent you can expect to see 23 - 42mph.

Yes, for a starters. If the display allows de-restriction and the hub is a higher wound one then it will go faster. Unless the rpm is known we can't potentially tell you how fast.

At least 25km/h, unless the winding speed/ hub rpm is known we can't tell you anything else. With the hub rpm and wheel diameter we can calculate the approx. max speed.

Replied to your other thread battery is scrap at 10.1v, if around 20v then it might be recoverable.

As vfr has said 10v is scrap and well beyond recovery, to stand a chance of any recovery it needs to be around 20v.

It's possible the LF-05X comes in different Wattages or with varying wattage markings. A bit like Bafang BPM/CST hubs 250, 350& 500. The marking just suits the market it is marketed at. For Instance yanks will steer clear of 250w marked hubs but are quite happy with 350/500 marked ones, though...

Leaving it on to tune it !!! My ones don't play notes or tunes :(. The extra time on charge is to ensure cell groups are balanced as close as possible. So far my 6 y/o 29E celled batteries are staying nicely balanced, only charging to 90%.

There will be quite a ew places you can't take it without the wheel breaking up, first jump or down a rough D/H track and it will be a pile of scrap.

I will stick to my trouble free (except for the odd maintenance every 3 - 4 k + miles, reliable, lighter and easy to diagnose faults and likely at a much cheaper price.

Your link and the pic of the hub with the markings don't add up, the hub pic in #1 though not 100% clear does look like it reads 350w nom and not the 750 nom in the Russian link.

Charge to full (100%) a few hours before use ride it and leave it, if you discharge 20 - 30% then it will be at 70 - 80%. A good SOC to leave the battery resting at.

Looking at the markings it is a 350w hub, as too producer ? Most certainly one would think China. To me the design looks like it is might be one with an integrated controller !!!

GH for trickle charging my car which isn't used much I use a solar panel approx 9 x6 which sits on the dash and pugs into the lighter. Cost me about £15 a few years ago and about a week later the seller refunded the cost to me saying I had been selected as one of the pay back customers they had...

Yes you can, simply use C5 to limit current as you may strip the nylon gears with too much current.

Depends if the new controller is a like for like genuine Heinzman CAN bus one to match the existing, otherwise as we have said handshaking needs to occur. Pics as requetsed.

A generic China polymer/lipo pouch cell likely unless a name is printed. Knowing the actual maker is likely impossible won't be from one of the well known boys.

Topping up to 60 - 80% is ideal for storage, for use set the charger to 90% or still to 100% but carry out the final 20% balance charge a few hours before use is required. Depending on usage one might not need to charge every day and may be able to get away with a few days or weekly.

About 90% max charge for all of mine a few hours before use, other wise they are left in discharged state above 40%. It depends on how active you are at checking voltage and knowing your battery 's mileage with usage, noticing changes in its range and how or if the battery sags more then usual...