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You can use any generic PAS /magnet disc off ebay, just make sure you get the wire sequence correct. If unsure when you get one we will tell you which colours match with which if it isn't obvious.

For 36v cell will be multiples of 10 40 is the minimum with generic mediocre cells. 42 cells would be 24v with six in parallel.

Count the teeth on both parts of the reduction gear also measure the stack height and each individual height as well as both diameters. Then compare your measurements with these to see if anywhere near close, if no luck scour ebay or Aliexpress fo anything that might match...

Never trust what you read in review mags or the interweb.

Yes no reason why you can't fit it I to the BB shell, offer the the chassis bar up to position to just tack weld then remove the drive to finish the job proper. The Woosh TSdz at 48v 250w is meant to be very good though stocks may be very low. Most bikes don't allow anything other then an...

The charge balance will be at or above 4.15v per cell group as with most top cell balancing BMS. As I mentioned really good cells will remain well balanced without balance mode, it boils down to how well you know your battery and how it performs. You only need to carry out a full battery charge...

I still say for the average bike user it is beyond a lot of folks to solder up the leads needed.

Yes front will drive can be like that, do you start off in PAS level one ? Also try starting off with the brake slightly pulled on to control the motor wheel spin until it is comfortably under way.

You could become the forum test guinea pig and tell how they fair :cool:. What have you too lose apart from burning your house down :eek::eek:.

Both of those are very dodgy, you would be a fool to even think about buying them. A user on ES found them a few months back and we on the forum warned him off them as the listing is highly suspect with mah claims and price. No way that 40 cells are 20k mah or 30 cells are 36k mah.

Opening the Amazon link to the centre lock disc it clearly is one looking at the description and the pics on the LHS side, however it is the first time I have seen one with six disc hole fixings, that said it is a one pieces CL disc and not a two piece floating disc model which I use. Centre...

Don't give up on the KT's as they are very good , it might need some more patience and a few settings changes. Can you tell us mor eabout the hub motor used ?

Try using the C5 parameter and reduce the controller current, drop to current level 3 as I think you will have the new LCD software then try it. Your old controllers are on 15a so it may be the battery can't deliver the current or the motor doesn't like the extra current. I use the KT 9 mosfet...

Back to the dealer to look at.

29E cells are very good as long as they aren't stressed by current demand 10s 4p should be good for a 15a controller, if you can find a 10s 5p/14.5ah 29E battery it would be even better. I have two 29E 14.5ah batteries now well in to their sixth year and both return 30 - 40 miles in PAS 1 or...

The soldering up of a Y/adapter test leads is in the main beyond most people. They will cost more then the tester it self by the time someone buys the Julet's with tails a suitable pin out connector, solder iron, lead solder, heat shrink etc,etc.

If it is faulty then I wouldn't send it back unless the seller arranges pick up.

BMS won't allow any charge to take place because it detects a fault, likely is that a cell group if faulty or low, a lot of batteries don't use a charge fuse as the BMS performs the fault finding .

The disc isn't unusual as it is a common Shimano fixture , the OP has simply bought the wrong item and needs a standard disc rotor.

Centre lock discs can't be fitted to hub motors you need a standard flat rotor with no boss on it, centre locks are for splined Shimano wheel hubs and use a freehub cassette tool to fit the lock ring just as it does on freehub . That centre lock disc is misleading as in the link it also shows...