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2.8v per cell group is quite low for a BMS all of mine have lvc of about 3.2v, below this there isn't much capacity to be of use. The deeper the discharge the cells suffer from more stress and heat. 4.1v max charge will increase cycle life and good cells should remain in balance, there is no...

No reason why a mid drive can't sit above the bottom rail once it is welded to the BB, one might need to think about the motor cable outlet as the rear bottom (five o'clock) position.

Always behind the chainring.

Use Fogstar's own web page not ebay, my order turned up within 36hrs, China dud HG2 @£2 a pop will be total counterfeit and not HE2/4 rewraps.

LCD3 will only work with KT/Keunteng controller which they are programmed for. That controller has no output for led/lcd.

Round Black = Julet or Higo WP(waterproof) with coloured internal ends to id them for pin outs, these can't be used with the £10 plug in diagnostic device.

Show us a pic. Depending on the sensor type either fit a long BB or get the grinder out and take a bit off the inside of the crank arm.

David has it covered always check voltage with a meter and post the readings, leds only light up nice colours they don't tell you much otherwise.

One last time if the motor wire uses/has 9 pins then it has internal speed sensor and you need to input the White wire in to the block colour to colour. If the motor wire only has 8 wires then you need to wire up the external speed sensor and fit the spoke magnet as per post #69.

Find a local dealer.

Magnetic disc PAS aren't affected by road muck or off road muck, the only issue I have had was with cable tying one on. Now I mechanically fix all in place, my diy kitted out town/commute bike has worked perfectly for six years or so now. Most solutions in one way or another have been tried and...

We already have statute UK/EU laws passed in parliament we will not be going down the USA route as there laws all differ from state to state. Simply put folks want a bike in the guise of a moped without the licensing that goes with it, albeit hard to get one licensed and insured. All my bikes...

The Flevo's are a bit unusual with the front drive wheel/derailleur set up, apparently very hard to master with center hinged set up. You are better talking to the folks in the sub forum link below. https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewforum.php?f=24&sid=0fd4bc40f93e13444f4dd86bc700aa2a Try before...

You might well be able to, you have to open the motor controller to se eif the capacitors are rated for 50v.

Before buying new bars esp swept ones be sure the brakes and gear shifters have enough cable length/slack in them and they can reach the bar positions with out being too tight, other wise cable outers and inners will need replacing and hydraulics if fitted will be a bit more costly to replace...

A simple continuity/buzz check on the fuse contacts will tell you if the breaker is in tact. Equally you may need to carry out some wire testing as well from the battery to the display and possibly with battery wiring.

Most 250w can handle 700w but not for a continuous period, for ATF try about 25/30mls. To much and it will slosh around and likely leak out. Drill a tapped hole in to the motor center core or the LHS plate, screw in an oil nipple for filling/maintenance.

We don't know what the sound is unless you record it for us.

We have already been over this and answered the questions, re read the thread from the beginning all the info is in the thread.

It should have read 'the three wire one is also a brake cut out'. The controller has two different brake cut outs you can use, you don't need two as they just complicate things. I you join both together they will work but if one develops and issue you have no bike power and then you can't find...